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Discussion Starter #1
My car was rotted all around the rear window, including the back edge of the roof. I bought a roof panel and was planning to just splice in the pieces along the back edge as needed. I have been warned not to section the roof too far form the edge as people say that might be noticeable no matter how good it's finished, something about mig welds and thermal expansion. ANYWAY, not sure if that is true but...

It looks pretty rusty under there,all the way across, and the only way to clean it out looks like taking off the roof. "ONLY" 44 spot welds on each side plus the ones in the front and back window opening. If I knew the new roof would fit, I'd probably go for it. I laid it on top, and it looks like it would fit, but looking I'm looking for someone with first hand experience.
 

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(actually Slim Jr now)
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Please wait for advice from an expert!
 

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40 year body tech

looks like new panel is the way to go,remove old one in sections,it makes it easier,leave the edged for last. have been having good luck with 3m panel bond on late models.have fun
 

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Whatever you decide to do is up to you but you can patch if you want you just need to take A LOT of time doing it right, stitch welding the patches in, one little tack weld at a time then cool with compressed air before doing the next one. The grind a little of the weld off at a time making sure to keep it kool using compressed air. Whatever you decide i wish you luck
brad
 

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If you were buying the skin anyway for patches, I'd go ahead and replace the entire skin at once. Just jump around with the spotwelds around the perimeter. Once everything is clamped in place and you know that this is where you want it, I would start with one tack weld in the center of the rear window pinch, one it the front and one in each drip rail and work your way around not heating up one side more than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input so far. I think I really need to see what's going on under the whole roof, not just the parts I'm prepared to patch.

To remove whole panel, the front and rear edges don't really have me all that worried.

The side though has me real worried. After drilling about about 1000 spot welds, you'd think I could hit them on center, but no, not usually. I always end up with a few that need the chisel. On the sides it seams like an impossible place to get the chisel in because the drip rail is in the way. So, I'll probably need to use the cut off wheel which means no chance of putting the old roof back on if there ends up being something wrong with the fit of the repop. A point of no return so to speak.

Then how to attach whatever roof I put back on? If it is the original, it needs to be plug welds since there will be holes. Not only do the sides not look like a fun place to cut out the old spot welds, it looks like it's be tough to dress the plug welds as well.

If the repop fits, I maybe can use my spot welder. Looks like it spot welds to the drip rail only on the sides (besides where the 1/4's tuck under). I guess that seems like an ideal place for it to be used, no dressing needed in the drip rail, but I won't be able to use weld thru either.
 

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I just put a brand new skin on my fastback. It was a coupe to start. I used my spot welder on almost all of the edges. It was not quite as easy as expected. I had to do some trimming to make it fit with all the other repo parts. So with yours it prob wont be to bad. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I just put a brand new skin on my fastback. It was a coupe to start. I used my spot welder on almost all of the edges. It was not quite as easy as expected. I had to do some trimming to make it fit with all the other repo parts. So with yours it prob wont be to bad. Good luck
Looks neat! What did you use as a drip rail?

Did you know the rear inner sheet metal around the trap door just became avail for a 65-66 fastback?

Mine should be here Friday (I hope). I'm surfing on my phone, going from memory I believe it is Dynacorn part # 3661C.
 

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Looks neat! What did you use as a drip rail?

Did you know the rear inner sheet metal around the trap door just became avail for a 65-66 fastback?

Mine should be here Friday (I hope). I'm surfing on my phone, going from memory I believe it is Dynacorn part # 3661C.
Thanks! I used the coupe drip rails and cut and formed them to the right size. It was really quite easy. The hard part was the roof line making it slope and curve the right way. Im going to look for that trap door part right now! I hope it is available, because its a bugger fabing it. Thats what im working on now. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is a picture.

I'm a little bummed, I hope I'm wrong, and the picture is a little small, but it looks like they made it with one less part on each side than the factory did.

I not really a car show guy, but I really don't want any parts that scream, "This is repro", especially an integral part like this that one day may lead someone to believe the whole shell was dynacorn (if they in fact start making them).

I think I can modify it with the existing parts to make it look factory..
 

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Here is a picture.

I'm a little bummed, I hope I'm wrong, and the picture is a little small, but it looks like they made it with one less part on each side than the factory did.

I not really a car show guy, but I really don't want any parts that scream, "This is repro", especially an integral part like this that one day may lead someone to believe the whole shell was dynacorn (if they in fact start making them).

I think I can modify it with the existing parts to make it look factory..
Are you talking about the piece over the wheel well? Yeah that is totally not there. That piece will have to be fabed. In my case there is all ready some metal there because of the coupe roof and how it was. Ill take some pics tomorrow of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Actually I was talking about the piece that goes between the trap door opening and the wheel well. On the repro, it looks to be one piece, originally it was two.

Originally, the trunk hinge is on the piece that extends to the wheel house, and it ends about an inch or two towards the center of the car. There is another piece "lapped" over it that continues to the trap door opening. Maybe a pic from the back would be better, the clamp is holding the two "lapped" pieces I'm talking about together.
 

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Ahh I see what your talking about. So you just want to make the piece "look" like the original. Did you buy the repo part? Or are you making your own? As of till today I was making that whole piece out of the parts from the coupe and a whole lot of custom work. (pain in the ***). But now I think I may scrap making it and just buy it!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ahh I see what your talking about. So you just want to make the piece "look" like the original. Did you buy the repo part? Or are you making your own? As of till today I was making that whole piece out of the parts from the coupe and a whole lot of custom work. (pain in the ***). But now I think I may scrap making it and just buy it!
The pieces in question,2 on the original, and one on the repop are mostly flat plates. I 'll probably cut the repop, and install part of the repaired original flat to make the second piece.

The real reason I need the repop is for the complex curve under the window lip and in the two corners.

It would have been a real time saver to install that whole assembly without cutting it into pieces first though...
 

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I understand. In my case I need the whole thing. I just looked at my fastback and saw in person what you are talking about. The pieces seem pretty thin to begin with. But the picture and the real thing look pretty close, but does look like the original has 2 pieces. In the end the whole piece is covered up and the only way any one will see it is if they take it all apart.. Here is some pics I just took tonight.
 

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