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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering if anyone has done the clock to tach install using the Deuhel mini tach.


What wires should I tap to get the 12v power and 12v switched?
 

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That looks pretty cool. I'm not sure the font quite matches, but it's pretty close and a lot cheaper than fixing the clock.

It looks like you need the switched 12v for power and the other 12v is for the internal light.

For the switched 12v you could probably just get that off of the back post on the ignition switch.

The light wire you could probably leave off since it should be lit from the normal dash lights. If you wanted to use it though you'll have to get that from the (blue/red?) dash lighting. There are usually a few extra dash light wires laying around for the radio and stuff like that. I think it would look weird though since it's probably just a normal white light bulb and the rest of the dash is green so maybe try it with just the normal dash lighting first and see if you can still see it.
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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I installed a tach in a dash cluster. Pulled constant 12 from the brake light switch. Switched from the ignition post (super easy, it's a threaded rod with a nut)
 

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I got mine from Rocketman's Classic Cougars. Matches factory gauges perfectly. If i remember correctly I got the 12V switched from the post on the ignition switch. I'll have to check where the 12V is hooked to. Can't remember offhand.
 
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Very cool, I like this mod. I can’t find the mini tach on Amazon!? For $25, I’m in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter #9
So not so easy as it looks. I can’t figure how he got the glass cover on. I’m thinking he took the silver centre off and glued it on. Otherwise, it will touch the gauge needle
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK so still trying to figure this out. Original youtuber answered back and said he just "glued" the tach to the back of the clock glass. That's not going to work for me. The clock glass is bevelled, and the little silver centre piece touches the gauge needle.

The tach, black bezel and all, fits snuggle into the clock opening. My plan is to paint the tach bezel a flat black so that it mimics the other gurages, and then take the silver centre piece off the clock glass and superglue it centre on the tac glass.
 

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Could you just shave down the tab on the back of the silver piece so that it doesn't interfere with the needle? You might have to glue the silver piece to the lens to keep it in place but that would be easy enough.

Or maybe make a gasket to go between the tach and the cluster to push it back just a hair so that it's not touching?

Just more ideas. However you do it I think it's going to be a nice upgrade when you're done.
 

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OK so still trying to figure this out. Original youtuber answered back and said he just "glued" the tach to the back of the clock glass. That's not going to work for me. The clock glass is bevelled, and the little silver centre piece touches the gauge needle.

The tach, black bezel and all, fits snuggle into the clock opening. My plan is to paint the tach bezel a flat black so that it mimics the other gurages, and then take the silver centre piece off the clock glass and superglue it centre on the tac glass.
Pop over to Home Depot and get one of the 2-inch "hub caps" shown below, or a piece of 2" PVC, cut a thin spacer ring, paint the inside flat black and glue THAT between the I/C and the gauge. Voila.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
The original clock "glass" is concave enough that it touches the needle regardless. Woodchuck's idea may be a good option too. I'm going to try my idea of gluing the silver centre piece directly onto the tach's glass and installing it. Maybe with hot glue at first in case it doesn't pan out.

Photos coming maybe tonight.
 

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I took a screwdriver and pried the black bezel off the tach. The bezel and lens will pop right off. Took me all of 30 seconds to do.

I took the clock block off plate and drilled a 2in hole in it. There is just enough lip on the tach to sit in the hole, I used the included hold down to hold the tach tight against the clock block off plate, then reinstalled the block off plate back into the cluster with the original 3 screws.

I used a wire tap to get power for the tach lighting from the cluster lighting and bought a flat 3 way trailer pigtail for dizzy, ground and switched power.

I can still pull the cluster by disconnecting the flat plug and the two factory plugs.

I have less than $30 into it, looks great, works as well as a $25 tach is going to work.

If you dont have a clock block off plate, make one out of hobby plastic or thin metal. It doesnt have to be over engineered.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bmcgc, a pic or two would be great.

Here’s the test fit for my idea. It’s snug and can even use the supplied retainer ring.

Not sure what I think of the overall look though.
 

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