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So I got bored last night and today and reverse engineered an Eastwood fender rolling tool. However, when I try to use it on the front fenders, the fenders just bulge out due to a lack of rigidity. I'm afraid to push them more in case they just bend instead of the lip. Anyone encountered this?
 

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So I got bored last night and today and reverse engineered an Eastwood fender rolling tool. However, when I try to use it on the front fenders, the fenders just bulge out due to a lack of rigidity. I'm afraid to push them more in case they just bend instead of the lip. Anyone encountered this?
Nope, but I have used a section of 1-1/2", or so, PVC and achieved very similar results. I read about it some years ago, when I was researching "tweaking" my fender lips. You basically place a jack under the LCA and lifting the wheel off the ground. With the PVC inserted between the wheel and lip, you rotate (walk) the PVC around the circumference of the tire. It takes some playing but, it does work. Also, you should heat the lip area with a heat gun to warm the paint, so as not to crack it. Depending on your particular application, you may have to "play with" the PVC dia to see what works best. The big box store have short lengths. Who knows, you may be able to use the PVC for your next plumbing job, as well.
Happy Motoring!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
People.. I already built the fender rolling tool. :D I imagine we'd have the same problems with your methods though. The fender bends out before the lip bends.
 

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I've never used the eastwood tool but imagine it requires gentle (and consistent, or constantly readjusted) pressure and many, many passes. It you're bulging the fender, you're probably using too much pressure. I think heat helps too. Let us know how it works!
 

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I'm guessing the OP is pushing straight out parallel to the ground. You need to start at pushing more vertical than horizontal. As the lip starts to bend, you adjusted the angle of the tool and force to more horizontal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well it's a Ford Tooling fender, so it already has a little vertical lip in it.. I'm just trying to bend it more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sure. You'll notice similarities. ;)



Just seems like the fender bulges before any bending happens, no matter what I do. I don't think it's the tool, as I think I ripped it off pretty good. :D Maybe I'll try the rears, but I already did them with a hammer. Also not sure if this tool would roll the double sheet metal back there.
 

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Your tool should work. What I had to do was start right in the center and put counter pressure on the fender while moving the tool. Start by moving the tool back and forth just a few inches while *while pushing in on the outside of the fender* (it helps to have three hands). Once you get a little bit of it started to bend the rest will follow along relatively easily. Plan on making lots of passes. Just try to go slightly farther with each pass. Remember also you don't need to bend the lip very far done the fender well to be effective - the wheel can't hit a fair bit of the opening.
 

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I have and used the eastwood tool on my 65' front and rear. As mentioned above, you need to start at an angle that slowly pushs the metal up, then move to pushing it in. I will say it took a long time of back and forth on the front fenders as they flexed as you mentioned. But after a while of back and forth the metal will start to push over. I posted some pictures to show the final result. Kind of hard to see the front, couldn't get a good angle. The rears, I cut the inner lip apart, then removed the wheel house lip. Rolled the 1/4 panel lip back up over itself and welded it, seam sealed then sprayed the under side of the car with SEM Bed Liner tinted to the same color as the car.

Hope this helps....

Jason
 

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Interesting on the PVC--does that really work? I need to roll my front fenders--some great ideas and experience guys! Thanks!
 

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When I did mine I used a chammy and a set of box pliers to get things started. (maybe 5 deg bend) and finished the job with a bat as mentioned above. The chammy was used to keep the fenders insulated from the pliers... I used it with the bat as well since the fenders were already painted. The trick is to work them slowly. Don't try to get a full roll on the first shot, but don't be afraid to push either.
The lower front of the fenders were done using only the box pliers, that's where most of my rubbing was happening.
Also, a soft towel on the tire helps to keep things slippery...
 
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