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http://home.earthlink.net/~myradpc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/zbarmod.jpg



They are not for everyone. The motor can't move around with this set-up. Solid mounts or a torque strap is needed and that adds vibration to the car. It does smooth out the clutch linkage and my favorite part, no more greasing. I'm trying to delete as many greaseable parts on the track cars as I can.

John
 

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I've got heim joints at the linkage ends (upper and lower, only lower pictured) and had the lower z-bar arm beefed up when it was modified to clear my headers.

I haven't gone as far as to add bearings to the z-bar.

John is correct though, you need that movement to allow for engine/chassis flex. So, it's an all or nothing endeavor.

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The first thing I did was put heim joints at the top and bottom of the Z bar like you did. That alone helped a ton. For a street car, that may be the best way to go because the motor could still move around.

John
 

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That alone helped a ton.
Agreed, I noticed a difference as well. I also replaced all the bushings, those things get REALLY melted/chewed up over the years. I wouldn't want to go solid mount as this is primarily a street car...it just likes to moonlight on the track. ;)
 

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I also put heim joints on both top and bottom of the Z bar, as well as on the linkeage that goes to the clutch pedal. It really helps.
 

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Just curious but couldn't you use heim joints to mount the bar itself? Run a rod out either end of the z-bar hole and weld it to the z-bar. Mount the heim joints to the car and the engine block with the z-bar in between. I don't know exactly how it would work but it seem possible. That way the engine could still rock back and forth with the heim joints simply rotating like they are designed to do. Of course you would have to secure the ends so the z-bar didn't pull out. This would obviously require some fabrication but nothing too major.

I was considering using small pillow block syle bearings that have the angular capacity to handle the engine moving a bit.

Just curious more than anything.
 

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While off the roller topic, I brazed closed the D shaped hole in my lower adjusting rod and redrilled the hole to fit over the dowel on the z-bar. No more slop.

Dan
 

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Good ideas guys....I to was thinking why can't you use a spherical bearing of some sort that would allow for engine movement? Maybe Opentracker can answer that question.
 

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New Muscle-Z-Bar for classic Mustangs

My name is Jim from Barillaro Speed Emporium in Knoxville, Tn. I found this older thread about roller Z bars and I wanted to show people the product we manufacture. Our Z bars use spherical rod end linkages and a CNC machined pivot tube with spherical bearings at the pivot points. We manufacture our products all in house and are proud to say thay are made in the USA. Please check out our website for more info. www.barillarospeed.net

Thanks, Jim Barillaro
 

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I thought self advertising like that was a no no.
 

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It is and he was warned. Perhaps why he hasn't replied again. He was cut a bit of slack because his post was right on topic.
 

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you can make a spherical bearing bellcrank(zbar). you need 2-.375" inside hole dia bearings. i piece of tube .875" outside dia. and smaller then .375 inside dia. cut the tube the same length as your bellcrank. have a machine shop mill a hole on each end .001 smaller than the o.d. of the bearing and just deep enough for the body of the bearing to go in and i dont remember what those measurements were. i traced a templet of the top and bottom arm positons of the factory bellcrank and then cut and welded the arms on the new tube in the same locations and with much better welds than the factory. PRESS the bearings in each end. i made a new frame bracket with a grade 8 .375 bolt with the threads cut off and cut back the block mount pin and welded a .375" bolt shank on. the press fit will not let the bearings fall out. the spherical bearings allow the bellcrank to move with engine movement. do not use ball bearings. i have ben using spherical rod ends on both ends of the clutch pedal bar and one on the clutch fork bar for many years and that combined with the roller bearing pedal support and the bellcrank makes a HUGE difference. you could also do it like the one in the fotos above using bolts to hold one bearing in the bellcrank and and a cap screw to hold the other one on the frame mount , it was easier for me to do it my way and i wanted better welds on the arms on the bellcrank cause i have had weld break b 4 and the pin in the frame mount and block mount were kind rough.
 

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Here's my set up. It's easy to do. I bought the rod ends from Grainger. Works very smoothly, I'd definetely recommend doing this. I'm using the stock style plastic bushings in my Z bar. With a stock clutch, I didn't think it was worth while to get fancy. I also had Mustang Steve install roller bearings on my clutch pedal hanger.





 

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I have the exact same setup on my '66, which I did in 1990 by following
an article in the now defunct Super Ford Magazine. (I also put a grease
fitting on my z-bar)
The roller bearings for the pedal support were from NAPA, originally
used on shop creepers.....
 

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Nice set up huskin hano. If u don't mind me asking. Could u pm me with specs on rod end sizes and where u got the custom rods from. I plan on doing this for a weekend project. Thanks
 

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