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I'm searching for metal tube or sleeve with correct ID and OD to mate the Mustang tube to the Koyo tube. I have a cheapo mini lathe so I can make small adjustments if required.

Top tube:
OD of the Koyo tube is 1.675"
ID of the Mustang tube is 2.135"
I have found references to 1018 DOM Round mechanical tubing with 2.125" OD and 1.687" ID.


Bottom tube:
OD of the Koyo is stepped (2.17 to 1.98")
ID of the Mustang tube is 2.135"
I have found references to 1018 DOM Round mechanical tubing with 2.25" OD and 1.982" ID,


If I can find a source for above, the fabrication can begin, I just need to find a source, any suggestions?
 

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Those are some strange wall thicknesses, none of which I could find with my usual sources. Best I could recommend is get a 2.25" tube with .1875" wall and open up the ID on a lathe. I can't find much in the 2.125" OD, only one size seems to be available from my sources and its wall is too thin. You may have to get 2.25" OD with 0.375" wall and turn each end down. onlinemetals.com has both of those tubes, but I typically buy from my local welding shop as they are much cheaper and don't have to pay shipping.

I haven't checked, but you may call this place: Welcome to Central Tube and Bar, Inc.

Do you plan on putting a through-bolt on these adapters? Otherwise, you'd have to machine a flat spot or spline it....both of which is a pain in the arse for a home machinist.
 

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Any update on taping into the T-5 speed sensor. That would make this an even more unbelievable upgrade.
I messaged the guy on eBay that sells the controller. Unfortunately he says there is no way to use the T-5 speed sensor in place of the potentiometer. He said he was working on a speed based system however he said it used gps determine vehicle speed which sounded hokey to me. Oh well. It would have been nice.
 

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I'm an electrical engineer, it would be straight forward to develop a circuit to convert the signal from the T5 sensor to simulate the potentiometer presently being used.

When I get the EPS installed I will design the circuit. If anyone has a spare sensor let me know.
 

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Those are some strange wall thicknesses, none of which I could find with my usual sources. Best I could recommend is get a 2.25" tube with .1875" wall and open up the ID on a lathe. I can't find much in the 2.125" OD, only one size seems to be available from my sources and its wall is too thin. You may have to get 2.25" OD with 0.375" wall and turn each end down. onlinemetals.com has both of those tubes, but I typically buy from my local welding shop as they are much cheaper and don't have to pay shipping.

I haven't checked, but you may call this place: Welcome to Central Tube and Bar, Inc.

Do you plan on putting a through-bolt on these adapters? Otherwise, you'd have to machine a flat spot or spline it....both of which is a pain in the arse for a home machinist.
Thanks for the link and information.

I called local metal supermarket and they took the information and did not get back to me. That got me thinking .... exhaust pipe and the expander tool at the exhaust shop. $20 and 15 minutes later, I now have two pieces that fit snugly inside the Mustang column and fit snugly over either end of the Vue column and lower gear box.

For the top shaft:
The upper Vue shaft has a solid splined shaft the exits the gear box, this mates with a splined "slider" shaft that normally connects to the Vue steering wheel. I will cut the top portion of the Vue slider shaft off, drill a 3/4" hole in the cut off end, insert the top 6" of the Mustang shaft in the 3/4" hole and weld.

To secure the slider shaft, one approach would be to simply weld the slider to the non slider portion of the Vue shaft. Another approach would be to install a press fit bearing on the Mustang shaft and then fix the bearing to the Mustang column (with a few small screws or bolts) to prevent the slider from sliding out. The second approach is more involved but would allow a simple exchange of the Vue box if it were to fail.

I just need to find an old Ford steering box to cut off the top 6" or so of the splined shaft to mate to the top Vue shaft. C'mon guys someone must have an old worn out steering box to donate to the build thread?


For the bottom shaft:
The bottom shaft is splined and normally mates to an intermediate shaft on the Vue. I have the Vue intermediate shaft. I'm using a TCP rack that uses a 3/4" Double D shaft in place of the original, the shaft passes through a bearing at the bottom of the column.

I will order a short 3/4" Double-D shaft to mate with the bottom Vue shaft. I might just cut the top yoke from the Vue intermediate shaft just below the splined section and then weld the new Double-D shaft to the Vue yoke. I will machine slots for external snap rings just below and above the TCP lower bearing to prevent the shaft from moving up or down.

As long as this thing actually fits under the dash, I think this is going to be a fairly easy conversion.

A few months back I read a post about someone installing one of the kits in an early Mustang, with details about the position of the motor but I can't recall what forum?

I will post pictures as I proceed.

Comments welcome, the more ideas the better.
 

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I have an old steering box, but I think shipping to Canada would be cost prohibitive since I'm about as far south in the U.S as you can get. Besides last time I shipped something to a Canuk I got hit with $97 in duties for some reason :(
 

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I have an old steering box, but I think shipping to Canada would be cost prohibitive since I'm about as far south in the U.S as you can get. Besides last time I shipped something to a Canuk I got hit with $97 in duties for some reason :(
I just need the top 6", fit in a padded envelope? I will pay USPS.
 

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Without pictures, it's hard to visualize, but it sounds a bit shaky. You're life will depend on these joints you're welding. Are you a very good welder? Not just "sticking" parts together with a MIG. I would never just butt-weld a steering joint, piloted or not. A few rosette welds are always recommended. These splined shafts may be hardened, and prone to cracking when welded. Please don't take this advise as an insult.
Steve
 

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Without pictures, it's hard to visualize, but it sounds a bit shaky. You're life will depend on these joints you're welding. Are you a very good welder? Not just "sticking" parts together with a MIG. I would never just butt-weld a steering joint, piloted or not. A few rosette welds are always recommended. These splined shafts may be hardened, and prone to cracking when welded. Please don't take this advise as an insult.
Steve
Steve, thank you for your comments, very good advice:)

I did some preliminary measurements and I might be able to use the upper shaft as is. I'm using a Moto Lita wheel and made the hub to match a Grant adapter. From what I have read a Grant adapter (3597) is available for the Vue shaft, this would simplify the upper shaft aspect. If I do have to cut and weld.... the splined shaft does not appear hardened (according to the file test). I'm comfortable welding the tube, brackets etc, but will rely on a pro for the shaft, absolutely needs to be done correctly.


I received the Bruno box today.
 

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I bought a Controller and a Vue steering unit months ago. I plan on swapping them in sometime soon. In my head I was suppose to have it done by now. LOL
 

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I'm an electrical engineer, it would be straight forward to develop a circuit to convert the signal from the T5 sensor to simulate the potentiometer presently being used.

When I get the EPS installed I will design the circuit. If anyone has a spare sensor let me know.
I agree with this statement. I'm no electrical engineer, but all one would need to do and take that circuit from ebay and replace the potentiometer with another circuit that takes speed output t5 and turns it into resistance. Hopefully someone will do this eventually.
 

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Hey slow-poke, I see you're a fellow Canadian. Are you by any chance residing in the lower mainland in BC? I would love to help you with this as I plan on doing this for my 67 fastback as well. I have a function generator, oscilloscope and power supply to test any signal conversion circuits. I can also assist in helping design a circuit as well.

Does anyone know the signal and frequency of the waveform outputted from either a t56 or a t5 in relation to speed?

Also, if anyone with the bruno box could upload pictures of the waveform it outputs at varying potentiometer positions that would be great as well.

Thanks
 

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Hey slow-poke, I see you're a fellow Canadian. Are you by any chance residing in the lower mainland in BC? I would love to help you with this as I plan on doing this for my 67 fastback as well. I have a function generator, oscilloscope and power supply to test any signal conversion circuits. I can also assist in helping design a circuit as well.

Does anyone know the signal and frequency of the waveform outputted from either a t56 or a t5 in relation to speed?

Also, if anyone with the bruno box could upload pictures of the waveform it outputs at varying potentiometer positions that would be great as well.

Thanks
I'm in Southern Ontario. There are some crude pictures of the waveform in one of the earlier posts in this thread.

Thanks
 
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