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Discussion Starter #1
Someone locally has a bunch of transmissions. C6, AOD and 4R70W for $100 each. With converter. Seems like a decent price as I’d like an OD so the AOD sounds good (I’m just going to have a mild 289/302).

When looking at the AOD, is there a good guide as to which model, dimensions to look for? I think there are long and short tail housings?

 

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$100 is basically a "core" price. Not a good deal if you have to replace most of the innards. Personally, not a big AOD fan, having owned a couple. The 4R70W is somewhat better, albeit requiring a control unit. I'd be using an adapter and a TH-200-4R....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
$100 is basically a "core" price. Not a good deal if you have to replace most of the innards. Personally, not a big AOD fan, having owned a couple. The 4R70W is somewhat better, albeit requiring a control unit. I'd be using an adapter and a TH-200-4R....
I know, normally I’d agree. From the ad:

I have 10 4R70 w ford transmissions and AOD’s

Fits from 80s to 2002 ford trucks and cars

100.00 each and will give 90 day warranty’s and deliver comes with converters and money back guarantee call [hidden information]
I know the later transmissions are better but I’m ok with a step up from the C4.
 

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I think Bart is right in that $100 is pretty much a core price but if it's a rebuildable core, I don't think it's too bad. If you're wanting to stay with an automatic and want overdrive, I'd go with the 4R70W over the aod. Yes, you'd need a controller but they're stupid simple to wire up and you'd have the benefit of better gearing, stronger internals, and programmable shift points.

The 4R70W you'd want would come from a 98 - 03 mustang v6 and the 01 - 03 are probably the better choice. You can get others but these will work with the least amount of fuss.

Edit to add, if you decide on the 4R70W be sure to get one for a two bolt starter. The ones with 3 starter bolts are have a different bellhousing bolt pattern.
 

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New2me is right on. I run the AOD, but that is because I had a rusted out daily driver to pull it from - basically a free AOD that I knew was GTG. Get the 4R70W.
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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So what you really ought to do is buy a Camaro and....
Oh wait, you asked SPECIFICALLY about AOD's. OK. Preferable is the "short tail" version. Some Lincolns and a tiny few trucks had tailhousings that were a bit over 11 inches long. The only real difference is that your driveshaft you will be shortening will have to be a bit shorter to fit the Lincoln version. No big deal.
You prefer one with the shifter are on it facing "down" or pointing at about 6 o'clock. These are are floor shift units that are more readily adaptable to being set up for an older Mustang floor shift. But if you don't mind pulling the valve body and getting into the pan area a bit you can flip the shifter the other way from the inside so if all you see are column shift units it shouldn't kill the deal for you. For the shift arm to be "down" the donor about has to be Mustang or Tbird/Cougars. Floor shift was an option for Tbirds and Cougars so they could be either way. All Mustangs were floor shift.
Early AOD's were fairly awful and had a variety of issues. I can't recall the last I've even seen one of those, I think they're all dead. But anyway, you don't want one earlier than 1984. They can be fixed but it just not worth it really. The 84-88's were some of the most robust internally with cast drums. The 1989-93 ones were redesigned a bit with some stamped steel drums which reduced rotating weight a smidge but mostly were cheaper to produce. Some people like the '89 ups because you can stack an extra clutch or two in the stamped drums during a rebuild. Something I've never found a need for myself.
People argue about strength. You can upgrade 3.8 V6 unit to V8 truck specs during rebuild and they will be the same but it's nice (and cheaper) to start with the beefier parts already in there. Much ado was once made about Supercoupe AOD's. Actually they just came with "A" OD servos and the truck internals were still actually stronger. You can buy any number of aftermarket servos these days that are even stronger if you like.
So the best one for a person with limited time and budget who's hoping to get a good used one is a 1984-93 5.0 Mustang.
One place you can NOT cheap out is the "TV" cable. Often wrongly called a kickdown cable. Having a good one that is properly adjusted is absolutely critical for the thing to work and stay working. Seriously. About the only choice is one made by Lokar. For some reason everyone sells the blingy stainless one but they also have a black TV cable that's less expensive. If you are running a Holleyor Edelbrock carburetor there is an additional "geometry corrector" kit that attaches to the throttle linkage that helps with getting the shifts to happen when you want. Most people who complain about how AOD's shift have never bothered to try the corrector kits.
Around here a core will bring form $50 to $100 so $100 for one that is atleast supposed to be in good shape is a pretty good deal if you ask me.
Happy hunting!
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I think Bart is right in that $100 is pretty much a core price but if it's a rebuildable core, I don't think it's too bad. If you're wanting to stay with an automatic and want overdrive, I'd go with the 4R70W over the aod. Yes, you'd need a controller but they're stupid simple to wire up and you'd have the benefit of better gearing, stronger internals, and programmable shift points.

The 4R70W you'd want would come from a 98 - 03 mustang v6 and the 01 - 03 are probably the better choice. You can get others but these will work with the least amount of fuss.

Edit to add, if you decide on the 4R70W be sure to get one for a two bolt starter. The ones with 3 starter bolts are have a different bellhousing bolt pattern.
Any other identifiers for the proper 4R70W? If you are looking at a shelf of them how do you know they came out of a Mustang?
 

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$100 is basically a "core" price. Not a good deal if you have to replace most of the innards. Personally, not a big AOD fan, having owned a couple. The 4R70W is somewhat better, albeit requiring a control unit. I'd be using an adapter and a TH-200-4R....
Yeah $100 is a core price.


The 2004R is a good choice. Good ratios relatively lightweight and smaller than some transmissions. I have built a few in the past and have one in my El Camino with 3.73 rear gears (3.42 would be better in it). The biggest weak point is the band and drum. Its getting very hard to find a good factory drum that hasn't been burned and warped. They are very strong when built right and in a lightweight car like a Mustang it's a great choice. Just stay away from the early versions as they are mechanically different. A good choice for an off the shelf converter for a V8 is to buy one from an parts store for an 87 buick GN. The MCSS ones are Ok but not as good as the turbine blades are not as optimal for performance use.
 

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Any other identifiers for the proper 4R70W? If you are looking at a shelf of them how do you know they came out of a Mustang?
I don't think there are very many identifiers that you can tell at a glance. GypsyR already mentioned that for a floor shift, which mustangs would be, the shift arm would be pointed down. The only other cars I can think of with a floor shifted 4R70W would be the 94-97 t-birds and cougars. The tail shaft housing is also 10 1/2 inches long on the 01 trans in my garage and I think the ones in the 2wd SUVs were a bit longer.

Really, the best way to tell is if it still has the parts number tag clipped to the driver's side of the trans, you can google the parts number to find out both the year and which vehicle it was intended for.
 

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Any other identifiers for the proper 4R70W? If you are looking at a shelf of them how do you know they came out of a Mustang?
A 4R70W that hasn't been too molested will have two inch or so metal tag on the passenger side towards the rear with some numbers and stuff on it. Painted white.
Look at the biggest numbers and Google search them. Odds are you'll turn up something that will clue you in to what it came out of.
For example I have a "PKE-BJ" nearby. A quick Google says it's a 2002 Crown Victoria 4.6. Which I know right off will be the short tail style and a three bolt starter and with only the rear input speed sensor. (Later models also have a forward input speed sensor-2004 +up) Missing the tag, look for the shifter arm to be down. Unfortunately most Mustang 4R70W's you find tend to be from V6 cars. I guess they sold more V6 cars than V8's. I'd prefer something from a truck with a 1996 or newer valve body myself. You can swap a 1996 valve body onto an earlier 4R70W, doing so myself is actually on my personal to-do list somewhere but it's better to just score the later (better) version to start with. Expect any 2001 and up to have a cracked valve body separator plate that will need to be replaced. It's not hard to do actually and the new plates don't cost too terribly much.
For some reason they cast a big number on the back of the bellhousing on these. It doesn't mean anything to us. So a great big "38" DOES NOT mean it came from a 3.8 Mustang. 38 just happens to be a common number they used.
 
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