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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i installed my aod trans in my 65 mustang and i can't get it to shift into any gear. Is there something i am doing wrong? I can feel it in the shifter when it "clicks" into a gear but noting happens. thanks for the help
 

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Got enough fluid in it? IIRC from empty 11 quarts needed to fill the trans and the converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the dipstick shows full can't recall how much i put i don't think it was anyting like 11 maybe 4-5 & 1-2 in the converter
 

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Have you looked underneath to see if the selector is actually moving?
 

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Is it possible you didn't get the filter assembly seated properly?

If so, it can't pick up fluid out of the pan. If your AOD was empty when you started, it should have taken 12 quarts to fill it.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the selector is moving through the gears. I took off the pan today and the 3 bolts holding on the filter was thight and actually stuck on there when the bolts were off. Do i have to adjust the t.v. cable for it to go in any gear? I took off the line going to the cooler and it was dry. I even put another 2 quarts in it and still noting now it is stiing empty and i can't figure out what is wrong.
 

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you need to start the car with the 4-5 quarts and put your foot on the brake and shift through all the gears one at a time back and fourth for a few minutes. Then Check your fluid level... it should have went down. This cycles the fluid through the internal parts of the transmission, then you should be able to add more fluid. Keep doing that until you have the 12 quarts in. In between all of this, the car "should" start to engage into the gears.... you will feel it start to pull with the brake pedal engaged. That is how my 88 GT was when I swapped trannys last spring.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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" the line going to the cooler and it was dry". Err, probably not good.
When you put the converter into the bellhousing, did it "click" into the shaft splines three separate and distinct times. Sometimes folks don't get into the last click (which isn't actually "splines"). The last one is critical, it's the converter engaging the front pump. Without that, the transmission will move no fluid, internally or externally.
Not only is this possible, it's suprisingly coomon. Symptoms are a bellhousing that doesn't "want" to mate easily to the engine. It has to be forced the last 1/2 inch or so using the bellhousing bolts. Also the converter will be pressed tight to the flexplate. Properly installed, you should be able to "rattle" the coverter lugs back and forth before you put the nuts on and tighten them down. There should even be a 1/4" inch gap between the converter and flexplate before tightening any nuts. If this has happened, it may be the front pump has been damaged, maybe not. Depends. I admit it it, I've missed that last click. But I realized it befor ethe trans was compeltely bolted up tight and it worked out OK.
I've heard of folks bolting the coverter to the flexplate and then bolting up the transmission onto both. This does destroy the front pump. Not saying you did this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok i just checked the torque converter and it did click in 3 times but it still sits flat against the flexplate it does not move back and forth. Still no fluid in the cooler I can't figure it out
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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I dunno, still sounds like it's not fully seated in the pump. If it is pinned to the flywheel...
This happens a LOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok i took the trans out of the car today and i had to use a pry bar to get the torque converter away from the flexplate. I got it on the ground and i tried to spin the torque converter by hand with it seated all the way and it spins about 1/4 turn and i can't move it anymore. It feels like it is jamed or someting could this mean the pump is dead? Thanks
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Err, does sound that way. When the last notch is missed and the tranny is bolted tight up against the engine it tends to damage the front pump. I'd take it to the local transmission shop and tell them what you think happened. They should be quite familiar with the problem, like I said, this happens a lot. It's even been known to happen AT a transmission shop. At least once I've seen that myself. Folks that know better get in a hurry and...
Hopefully it's not too spendy to fix. You might want to get the shop to put the converter in for you before you leave to make sure it's right the second time. Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
just to be sure on everything that when the converter isin all the way that it should spin freely. also when the converter goes in 3 clicks that the last click is the shortest it seemes that it didn't go in as far as the other ones. thatks for the help. If anyone has had this problem and had it fixed how much was it to fix the pump? Thanks
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Well, we call them "clicks" for lack of a better word, I guess. What you are doing is engaging one splied shaft, then a second one, then the two notches you probably noticed on the converter snout have to engage the drive ears of the pump.
When fully seated, the converter should almost be brushing the rear inside of the bellhousing. On some trannies the converter will touch. You can still turn it but the slight fins of the converter hit the bellhousing as you do. If it does that you can be sure it's seated fully. Another check is to pull the converter back out just a tad and smack it back in. It should make a solid "whok!" sound as the converter hub smacks the pump hub. No doubt it helps to have heard this sound before so you have a basis of comparison.
Sounds like you have the converter seated now. But are you sure it was when you bolted up the trans up the first time?
If you are being hardheaded (pot calling kettle black?) ;) you could put it back in again and see if it works. I beleive I said before that I have seen botched installations simply reset. It can happen that the pump was not damaged. If it was you've nothing to lose but your time and labor. You won't hurt the transmission further and you might possibly luck out.
Do ya feel lucky? I'll cross my fingers for you if you think it'd help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i tried to install the tranns again and still no work the converter is in all the way and when i take it out the converter is pined against the flexplate and have to pry it apart. I am thinking that i might have the wrong block plate?? I can't think of any other reason that it will be on there that hard. It is the part that actually goes into the block in the middle of the converter. any more ideas? I might have to take the trans into a shop and see what happened. The end of the torque converter that goes into the trans looks like somebody took 60 grit to it i am thinking that this is not a good thing! thanks for the input so far
 

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By any chance did you swap from manual trans to auto? Pilot bushing still stuck in the end of the crank? I don't recall if the AOD converters have the nub that fits into this recess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
no it has always been automatic. The torque converter had 2 flats spots on the end of it where it goes into the trans is where it what chewed up. I talked to a transmission shop and they said that i should be able to push the converter away from the flexplate so that the studs aren't in it and be able to spin it freely.
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Err, those two "flat spots" are basically what drives the front pump I have been talking about. The flat spots are of fairly hard steel. The part of the pump they mate to are of rather softer material.
Pump=damaged. Take to shop. Pay the man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
it is at the shop now and they said it is the pump drive what ever that means and it needs a new torque converter. Would it be better to take the engine out to mate up the trans to be sure that it is is correctly or install it from under the car? I don't have a lift so it would have to be on jackstands
 
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