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Discussion Starter #21
You have to ask yourself and answer a question.

Do you want a DD, garage queen or concourse restoration?

If you think your cars value is 20k + and you want to use it as a DD, then you are going to pay insurance based on the value and risk.

I want to be able to DD my cars with no restrictions so I probably pay more insurance than most of you pay.

Im most likely going to buy replacement fenders for my 67. Replacements have no bondo, rust, previous damage or holes. I want 68 emblems and no external antenna.

At $165 a fender from NPD, thats pretty low cost to start with a clean piece of sheetmetal.

I will bolt it on, line it up as best as I can and leave it alone. Its a driver car that will top out at under 20k in value regardless of how much I spend on it.

If it gets smashed in a WM parking lot or at an intersection, Im going to say, "Damn, $165 fender smashed to hell." Then Im going online and ordering another one.

Im a few hours away from NPD - Florida, so Im picking mine up. Everything sheetmetal that gets shipped ends up damaged.

I will put my originals in the attic with the rest of the Mustang that I am slowing storing up there.
I love the way you broke things down.
Good common sese points
 

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Dimples
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4,647 Posts
You have to ask yourself and answer a question.

Do you want a DD, garage queen or concourse restoration?

If you think your cars value is 20k + and you want to use it as a DD, then you are going to pay insurance based on the value and risk.

I want to be able to DD my cars with no restrictions so I probably pay more insurance than most of you pay.

Im most likely going to buy replacement fenders for my 67. Replacements have no bondo, rust, previous damage or holes. I want 68 emblems and no external antenna.

At $165 a fender from NPD, thats pretty low cost to start with a clean piece of sheetmetal.

I will bolt it on, line it up as best as I can and leave it alone. Its a driver car that will top out at under 20k in value regardless of how much I spend on it.

If it gets smashed in a WM parking lot or at an intersection, Im going to say, "Damn, $165 fender smashed to hell." Then Im going online and ordering another one.

Im a few hours away from NPD - Florida, so Im picking mine up. Everything sheetmetal that gets shipped ends up damaged.

I will put my originals in the attic with the rest of the Mustang that I am slowing storing up there.
Yeah, but you’re going to put hundreds of dollars of paint on top of it. For that reason alone, this rationale doesn’t make sense to me. Add to that the possibility that this could be a +/- $10 repair if you have a welder and some patience (the photos provided so far don’t necessarily tell the whole story, but it’s possible) and you get to keep an original fender that already fits, and this approach makes even less sense to me.

Due to the cost of paint alone, I just can’t understand the idea that one would just slap on a potentially ill-fitting repro fender and be happy about spraying fresh paint over it. I’m one of those people that uses these old cars to drive, and I view rock chips as a badge of courage, but given the chance, I would at least try to get the thing straight and looking right before spending money on paint.
 

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Pull a fender off a new Mustang. You can literally wad it up in your hand.
 

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i have a repro fender on my drivers side ('66) that was bought used. it fits pretty good, body lines line up nice except for the headlight bucket, it's welded on too low in the fender, so the headlight door sits low. i never bothered to check parts fitment before i bolted it on, but it's an easy fix. i have no idea who made it.
 

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Just about Ford Parts

Consider, average Ford tooling, varied by complexity, was 50,000 to 65,000 pieces. There was not a single tool stamping all the fenders, etc. at one time, and many parts were made of multiple pieces welded together, so one piece could be off a new tool, and another piece off a tool reaching end of life.

Then there was the issue of who was welding parts together, was it 1st day of deer season, 3rd shift with the guy 1st day on the job, etc.

Line rejects: I have owned NOS parts that were obvious line rejects. Why throw it away, when it can be sold through the parts department.

Passage of time: Some parts, especially chromed, turned to garbage as the length of time listed as a replacement part increased. Bumpers and back up / parking lights looked like they were chromed with gravel in them, no prep, no cleaning, just slap on some mediocre chrome on a poorly stamped out part. For example, I caught a stash of about 10 - 12 65 66 bumpers, all in NOS paper, in an old stash. Only 2 were worth putting on a car without work.

Rewraps and fakes: The rust red primer with yellow part number markings are a favorite. Take a repo fender, run it through a quick strip tank to take off the black paint, respray it rusty red with the yellow part number, etc.. Put it out back in the summer sun for a few months, and wrap it in some old Ford paper. $120 fender turns into an $800 fender, off to the swap meet or Craigslist.


The other issue is the unibody itself. 55 year old car, 7 wrecks, 230,000 miles, some rust, on a 5 year life expectancy mass produced car, and NOTHING is going to fit well.
 
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