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Discussion Starter #1
Refurbished and painted Shag's original hinges. Installed them + new springs and hood. I lowered the hinges as far as possible in the compartment.

Whenever I lower the hood the back end is sticking up 1/2"+. I remove the springs and it drops down perfectly flush, actually too low.

I installed the original springs with same problem.

What else can be causing the back end to stick up in the air?
 

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I think its the other way around, raise the rear of the spring rather than lowering it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Called George my painter and he said loosen to hinge to body bolts, push up on the front of the hood causing the hinges to rotate towards the firewall which will drop the back end of the hinges down. Tried it and now it is only 1/8" too high. Getting there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey, donating the trunk monkey video was worth it. Actually since I have the engine out of the compartment I wonder if the bolts could infact be tighten with the hood closed and pushed down? I could possibly locate a trunk Gorilla up at SF zoo and have him sit on the hood.
 

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Craig Fast68back is correct there is an article in MM that shows how to adjust the hood and you raise the hood in the rear to make it go down. To me it doesn't make sense , but thats what it says to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tried raising the back end of the hinges and it did not drop. Instead it was way too high.
 

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he said loosen to hinge to body bolts, push up on the front of the hood causing the hinges to rotate towards the firewall which will drop the back end of the hinges down.
He's dead on. That is exactly the way to lower the rear of the hood. When the hood is closed, can you push down on the hood and have it go down?

When the hinges get too sloppy to use, anymore, the problem is just what you're experiencing, in that no amount of adjustment is enough to make the hood sit flush in the back. The reproduction hinges, these days, are pretty decent, though. All 3 of our cars have reproduction hinges on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
John,
That's exactly what I was afraid of. Yes with the hood closed I can push down on the hood in back and it will go down that final 1/8 inch to become flush.

Sounds like I should get a set of repros. Similar problem we had with Red and the painter made me go out and get new ones.
 

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The first set of repo hinges I bought for my '67 were junk. Within a couple of years, one of the hinges fell apart and I almost dropped the hood on the fender. I was livid.

Joe
 

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My car has been in the family since 1968. I had
the problem described and lubricating the hinges
did not help, so I replaced them.
Here's a little primer on the subject. It assumes
that you have a 67 or 68. First off, make sure the
hinges (whatever you use) are well lubricated.
Even properly adjusted hinges will cause the
rear to sit up higher than they otherwise would
if they are bound up.
The 67/68 hinges haven't been available from Ford
for quite some time. Lots of folks use the '69
hinge. They'll work but they are NOT the same
exact unit. When installed, not only does the
hood not open up as far, but they required some
some slight modifications where they bolt up
to the fender apron. (slotted the holes in the
hinges themselves to give a bit more adjustment)

I believe that the design of the repo hinges is
based upon the '69 hinge- it looks that way to
me at least.

I had to use trial and error to get mine adjusted
because I didn't know the "pick up on the front
to adjust the rear" tip. It's done now and the
slight slotting of the mounting holes was
definitely necessary.
 

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Are you saying you used NOS '69 hinges? Where do you get those? They're not in the NPD catalog.

Frank
 

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Yeah, I scored a NOS set in 2000 from a friend of
mine for the princely sum of $35.
 

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joe69 said:
The first set of repo hinges I bought for my '67 were junk. Within a couple of years, one of the hinges fell apart and I almost dropped the hood on the fender. I was livid.

Joe
My repros were junk also. The rivets were so loose that they would bind before folding up.

I found the best OEM ones I could off ebay (made sure they were not bent or rusted solid) and restaked the rivets using a dull chisel, an anvil and a BFH. You can heat them if you want but with a big enough hammer you don't need to.

Oh yeah, I blasted them and soaked them in phosphoric acid to give them the phosphate finish. Found some Rustoleum "rust preventer" stuff at Home Depot that you can spray on which looks like oil but works a lot better.
 

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Do you happen to have the weatherseal installed when you have the 1/8" gap ? I found that I had the same problem, but I was using a repo weatherseal. When I switched back to the original one the 1/8" gap went away. Just a thought..
 
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