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Discussion Starter #1
On my 65 Gt convert I am reinstalling my power steering control valve.

Here's the question:

How much right to left motion(actual ball stud slide) should there be.

In the valve sleeve my ball stud socket can slide at least 1-11/2 inch each way. Even when the spool bolt and travel regulator installed.
For those who don't have a clue what i am taliking about(as if I know what i am talking about) refer to page 3-37 of the 65 shop manual.

Does this sound correct or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks
Tom
 

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I can't remember how all that "stuff" felt when it went back together. Its been a long time since I rebuilt mine.

I looked in the book and I know what you are talking about, but I can't remember if there should be something holding it in, like a pin, or if it is free until you put it all the way back together. Are you sure you got all the parts back in that were supposed to go back in?
 

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The 1966 shop manual indicates 0.060 inch movement for the control valve within the slide sleeve. I would think this would be identical for 1965 models. You have excessive travel. It appears your ball stud slide sleeve is not connected to the spool bolt. Is the travel regulator screwed into the end of the ball stud socket? Is the spring, spring seats (2), spacers and adapter installed correctly and in proper order under the control valve spring cap? Is the locking nut torqued properly on the end of the spool bolt? Since you have a service manual, there should be an exploded view of the control valve, its parts, ball stud area and its parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am totally baffled. I have looked and followed directions and disassembled and reassembled and couple of time and the same result.

I think in the morning I am going to remove steering and bring it to a pro!

I will let you know what I found out

Tom
 

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Was the engine running and the hydraulics operating?

When the engine is not on, the ball stud will move back and forth an inch or more. You are compressing the centering spring under the end cap when you turn it one way, and compressing the bumper spring turning the other. This is normal.

When the engine is running, the ball stud should just visably move before the hydraulics actuate and the linkage starts to move.

The system works very simply - you turn the wheel, the box moves the ball stud. This causes the hydraulics to flow fluid to the cylinder which pushes (or pulls) against the frame rail and moves the linkage. As soon as the linkage has moved enough for the ball stud to be back in center, the movement ceases. All a power steering system does is try to re-center itself. You off-center it and it compensates. It just so happens that the linkage moves and the car steers while all this is going on.

When the engine is not running the linkage simply allows the spring loaded clearances to move around. With the system running almost all the play disappears as the linkage trys to follow the ball stud back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The car is not in runnable condition as of this point /forums/images/icons/frown.gif. The ball stud moves back and forth approx. 2". Not good. I am going to remove system and bring it to my machanic today and see what he says.

I will post and let you know what happened.
Tom
 
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I'm no guru, but I did just recently rebuild my control valve (the one with the drag link attached). I just bought a rebuild kit from one of the vendors (instructions included) sat it on the bench and it wasnt to difficult. IIRC it will be loose until you put the rest of the valve housing back together with the adjusting nut. Give it a try. I of course dont know if it worked yet as the car is not driveable, but I think it should be ok.

SCOTT
65CONV, C-CODE, T10, 4BBL
ITS ALMOST DRIVEABLE, WOOOO-HOOOO
 
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