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Discussion Starter #1
As the title suggests, I'm trying to decide which way to go. The floors were shot due to rust, previous crappy repair, and accident damage. The passenger side front frame rail/floor support had also been pushed way out of position which wrinkled the tunnel. I'm trying to get motivated to get back to work on this thing and looking for some input as to which would be the "best" way to go. I have replaced the firewall, front frame rails, and patched the cowl side panels. I still need to get the upper/lower cowl and core support back on, but then will be ready to work my way towards the rear. I already have "full length" floor pans for both sides and trunk drop offs. The transition pan is in good shape, but I plan on replacing (don't have yet) the rear frame rails (most likely torque boxes, too) and the rear trunk brace.

I hammered the tunnel back into shape the best I could, but would I be time ahead to just get the one piece floor, or will it take a lot of persuading to get it to fit? If I'm going to end up replacing most of the back half, should I just get the assembly? If I go assembly, I'd probably remove the floor supports from it since I already have them installed on my frame rails, and cut/patch into the existing inner rockers which only need minor repairs but they're quite a bit more $$$ than just the one piece floor pan. Even though the one piece are not horribly expensive, I already have the full length floor pans which will serve my purpose, but it'll be a lot of welding and grinding.

I'm stuck on this merry-go-round... someone needs to push me off.

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Use the floor pans you have. You've done quite a bit of work, and they're pretty easy to weld in, though they do require some time...
 

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68 Mustang Coupe
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After replacing my floor pans long ago before the one piece was available and then discovering more rust/thin metal I replaced my entire floor. I'll never do just the pans again. I'd recommend convertible inner rockers as well since you're there.
 
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The more I dug into my project the more I had to replace. I wound up replacing the toe boards, floor pans, seat risers, trunk pan and a portion of the rear frame rails. It was a lot of cutting grinding and welding. If I had it to do all over I'd buy a one piece replacement. It makes for a cleaner job with less work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After replacing my floor pans long ago before the one piece was available and then discovering more rust/thin metal I replaced my entire floor. I'll never do just the pans again. I'd recommend convertible inner rockers as well since you're there.
I’ve thought about doing those, but hadn’t really decided if it was necessary or not. I also see they have the full floor assembly for the convertibles, but I don’t know if it would fit a coupe or not. It might have helped to mention in the op that it’s a 68 coupe.


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Discussion Starter #6
The more I dug into my project the more I had to replace. I wound up replacing the toe boards, floor pans, seat risers, trunk pan and a portion of the rear frame rails. It was a lot of cutting grinding and welding. If I had it to do all over I'd buy a one piece replacement. It makes for a cleaner job with less work.
The full assembly sounds like less work for me, but at a trade-off of cost vs. time. Plus, I worry about the accuracy of how well it’s assembled as far as being true/square.


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After having done one on my car, my vote is a full floor. I have to be honest, I've never just replaced the individual pans. But on the other hand, If you already have the pans, just go that route.
 

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Another vote for the 1 piece floor pan. It was much easier than trying to fit and weld in each side separately. Worth the extra price in my mind to save A huge amount of time. Maybe if you are a really good welder you could patch the floors quickly with minimal grinding etc. For me it wasn’t worth the tens of hours additional work.
 

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback T5 Ncas 9in Locker
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Full floor, do it right and be done👍🙂
 

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If you were just doing the floor pans that are rotted out, thats one thing, but your talking about the transition panel and rear rails/box,etc....yes, more parts money but a lot easier/faster/better for that full floor pan assy. What do the inner wheelhouses look like....such a slippery slope eh? No front torque box upgrade?
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289, TKO 5-spd, EFI, 4-discs, TCP coilovers
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As the title suggests, I'm trying to decide which way to go. The floors were shot due to rust, previous crappy repair, and accident damage. The passenger side front frame rail/floor support had also been pushed way out of position which wrinkled the tunnel. I'm trying to get motivated to get back to work on this thing and looking for some input as to which would be the "best" way to go. I have replaced the firewall, front frame rails, and patched the cowl side panels. I still need to get the upper/lower cowl and core support back on, but then will be ready to work my way towards the rear. I already have "full length" floor pans for both sides and trunk drop offs. The transition pan is in good shape, but I plan on replacing (don't have yet) the rear frame rails (most likely torque boxes, too) and the rear trunk brace.

I hammered the tunnel back into shape the best I could, but would I be time ahead to just get the one piece floor, or will it take a lot of persuading to get it to fit? If I'm going to end up replacing most of the back half, should I just get the assembly? If I go assembly, I'd probably remove the floor supports from it since I already have them installed on my frame rails, and cut/patch into the existing inner rockers which only need minor repairs but they're quite a bit more $$$ than just the one piece floor pan. Even though the one piece are not horribly expensive, I already have the full length floor pans which will serve my purpose, but it'll be a lot of welding and grinding.

I'm stuck on this merry-go-round... someone needs to push me off.

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I had a tiny little hole in the rear passenger floor, and decided to install the rear footwell patch panel. However, once the seat riser panel was removed, the floor below that was rusty and thin, so the project expanded to the full passenger side floor panel. That was successfully completed, and although it is safe and solid, there are now seams where there weren't seams before, and although I have no evidence for it, I wonder about "squareness" and "trueness" of the car in general (if there ever was such a thing).

I retrospect, having gone to that much trouble, I wish I had done the full floor front to back, side to side. This approach not only gives you assurance that the floor is solid throughout, but it also allows you realign / resquare the car. It also reduces the total number seams you have to weld (and see), and in your case, it will fix your tunnel issue as well.

It is a lot of work, but if you are going there anyway, do the whole thing.
 

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Take a real real good look at the rear,frame,trunk area. If its good then and only then would I do just a one piece floor pan. If there is rust in the rear area especially in the pinch welds at the wheel tub area and the trunk drops then I would do the complete floor.Yea Its a lot of work grinding and fitting but a way better job when its completed..
 

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I'd go with the full floor.
It's easier to get fitted, less welding, and you wind up with a better finished product.
 

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I have to agree with others, go for new pan. If I had it to do over again I would. I had to make multiple patches. I was just getting started and very intimidated at the thought of doing whole pan. I would have been time and quality ahead by going that route.
 

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I have to agree with others, go for new pan. If I had it to do over again I would. I had to make multiple patches. I was just getting started and very intimidated at the thought of doing whole pan. I would have been time and quality ahead by going that route.
 

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Rereading the OP's post, I believe he's asking about a 1 piece floor assembly versus a 1 piece floor pan. When I did mine 12 years ago, they didn't offer a 1 piece assembly. I used a 1 piece floor pan and then added a new transition pan and trunk floor in. My rear torque boxes were good. I did have the section the back half of both frame rails. I still think a 1 piece assembly would be better than piecing it together like I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Rereading the OP's post, I believe he's asking about a 1 piece floor assembly versus a 1 piece floor pan. When I did mine 12 years ago, they didn't offer a 1 piece assembly. I used a 1 piece floor pan and then added a new transition pan and trunk floor in. My rear torque boxes were good. I did have the section the back half of both frame rails. I still think a 1 piece assembly would be better than piecing it together like I did.
Yeah, that’s the root of the question. I’m pretty much sold on the one piece floor at this point due to comments, but I don’t know if it’s worth it to spend the extra on the assembly. Like I said, the transition pan’s in good shape, but if I’m going to be replacing the rear rails and most of the trunk area, would I be better off to get the assembly? I also already have inner/outer wheelhouses, but I plan on sectioning those in as needed. As I type this out, I don’t know if I can justify the extra $$$ to get the assembly. I’d also have to figure out how to keep the back end of the car aligned, as it’s bolted to my garage floor through the leaf spring front hanger holes.

In summary, I’m going to get the one piece floor and fix the rear frame rails/torque boxes/trunk as needed. I’ll also probably go ahead and get the convertible inner rockers as well and fit the seat risers that I also already have to them. Thank you all for your input.


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I'm a fan of use as much original metal as you can, so I just replaced floor pans that were rusted out. The replacements are also not as well made as the originals. One piece may be easier but less original for sure.

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm a fan of use as much original metal as you can, so I just replaced floor pans that were rusted out. The replacements are also not as well made as the originals. One piece may be easier but less original for sure.
Original-ish??? It will forever have a part of a 67 hood. After tearing into it, I am glad I replaced the entire front frame rails instead of patching.








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