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My 65 289 was built by the PO who is an automotive machinist. He rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago to stock specs. He estimates about 20,000 miles.
It has no oil leaks, uses no oil, when I pulled the plugs they were an even tan, no carbon, no wear, so I reused them.
I put about 300 miles on the car before I pulled it in for PS and a manifold/carb swap. Ran perfect except the 2100 had a slight leak.
Before pulling the dizzy I put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and took a pic of the dizzy. The dizzy had the metal vacuum line.
After I removed the 2100 and installed the new manifold and new 4V, I reinstalled the dizzy. The crank had not moved. The rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the cap.
I set the initial timing by moving the dampner to line the 10°BTDC mark with the pointer, then rotated the dizzy until the points opened.
I reinstalled everything else and started the engine.
The timing pointer is at about the 1 o'clock position, my 10° BTDC mark is at about the 12 o'clock position. 20in of vacuum.
If I move the dizzy so the 10° BTDC mark on the dampner is in line with the pointer, vacuum drops, the engine still runs but will not restart. Im setting timing by vacuum since the light is useless.
The dizzy is not in the same position as it was before I removed it.
Although possible, I doubt the dampner has slipped. The PO was very meticulous and replaced anything that was not in spec. The dampner looks to be in excellent condition, no rust of pitting as you would expect if it was 55 years old.
Unless the damner has slipped, why would my 10° BTDC mark be so far off the pointer?
The car runs smooth at temp so Im going to take it for a test drive.
I think it still ides to high, I set both idle needles at 1.5 turns out and turned down the fast idle a little more.
The fuel level is still to high in the sight glass, hopefully a drive will suck it down.
When checking the timing, the car is at temp, dizzy vacuum unhooked and plugged, vacuum gauge hooked to full manifold vacuum.
What if anything is amiss?
It has no oil leaks, uses no oil, when I pulled the plugs they were an even tan, no carbon, no wear, so I reused them.
I put about 300 miles on the car before I pulled it in for PS and a manifold/carb swap. Ran perfect except the 2100 had a slight leak.
Before pulling the dizzy I put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and took a pic of the dizzy. The dizzy had the metal vacuum line.
After I removed the 2100 and installed the new manifold and new 4V, I reinstalled the dizzy. The crank had not moved. The rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the cap.
I set the initial timing by moving the dampner to line the 10°BTDC mark with the pointer, then rotated the dizzy until the points opened.
I reinstalled everything else and started the engine.
The timing pointer is at about the 1 o'clock position, my 10° BTDC mark is at about the 12 o'clock position. 20in of vacuum.
If I move the dizzy so the 10° BTDC mark on the dampner is in line with the pointer, vacuum drops, the engine still runs but will not restart. Im setting timing by vacuum since the light is useless.
The dizzy is not in the same position as it was before I removed it.
Although possible, I doubt the dampner has slipped. The PO was very meticulous and replaced anything that was not in spec. The dampner looks to be in excellent condition, no rust of pitting as you would expect if it was 55 years old.
Unless the damner has slipped, why would my 10° BTDC mark be so far off the pointer?
The car runs smooth at temp so Im going to take it for a test drive.
I think it still ides to high, I set both idle needles at 1.5 turns out and turned down the fast idle a little more.
The fuel level is still to high in the sight glass, hopefully a drive will suck it down.
When checking the timing, the car is at temp, dizzy vacuum unhooked and plugged, vacuum gauge hooked to full manifold vacuum.
What if anything is amiss?
