Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,432 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 65 289 was built by the PO who is an automotive machinist. He rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago to stock specs. He estimates about 20,000 miles.

It has no oil leaks, uses no oil, when I pulled the plugs they were an even tan, no carbon, no wear, so I reused them.

I put about 300 miles on the car before I pulled it in for PS and a manifold/carb swap. Ran perfect except the 2100 had a slight leak.

Before pulling the dizzy I put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and took a pic of the dizzy. The dizzy had the metal vacuum line.

After I removed the 2100 and installed the new manifold and new 4V, I reinstalled the dizzy. The crank had not moved. The rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the cap.

I set the initial timing by moving the dampner to line the 10°BTDC mark with the pointer, then rotated the dizzy until the points opened.

I reinstalled everything else and started the engine.

The timing pointer is at about the 1 o'clock position, my 10° BTDC mark is at about the 12 o'clock position. 20in of vacuum.

If I move the dizzy so the 10° BTDC mark on the dampner is in line with the pointer, vacuum drops, the engine still runs but will not restart. Im setting timing by vacuum since the light is useless.

The dizzy is not in the same position as it was before I removed it.

Although possible, I doubt the dampner has slipped. The PO was very meticulous and replaced anything that was not in spec. The dampner looks to be in excellent condition, no rust of pitting as you would expect if it was 55 years old.

Unless the damner has slipped, why would my 10° BTDC mark be so far off the pointer?

The car runs smooth at temp so Im going to take it for a test drive.

I think it still ides to high, I set both idle needles at 1.5 turns out and turned down the fast idle a little more.

The fuel level is still to high in the sight glass, hopefully a drive will suck it down.

When checking the timing, the car is at temp, dizzy vacuum unhooked and plugged, vacuum gauge hooked to full manifold vacuum.

What if anything is amiss?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
To verify the timing Mark's on your balancer, buy a proform or comp cams piston stop. About $9.00 on Amazon. You thread it into the #1 sparkplug hole and rotate the crank by hand until it stops (touches piston). Mark that position on the balancer where the pointer is. Then turn the crank the opposite direction until it stops again. Mark that position on the balancer. The center of those two points is "0" TDC. That will at least verify if your balancer has spun on the hub. I did this last night and found out my SFI rated balancer (won't spin on hub) was off about 1.5 degrees. I used the appropriate sized Summit brand timing tape on the balancer to mark the correct timing Mark's. Simple and worth piece of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36,519 Posts
With the balancer at TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor should be pointed at the left hood hinge. Likely what has happened here is your distributor got one tooth off setting when reinstalled. Common problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,432 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went on a 5 mile drive, all seems well. Lots more power, but the idle is still to high. No leaks other than the freeze plug in the front of the right head. It least its the easiest one.

Im running the elec choke off the S terminal on the dizzy. Thats how it was wired on the 2100.

#1 was pointed toward the left hood hinge.

I will order the piston stop and give that a go.

For now, Im leaving it as is. It idles smoothly and runs well.

Ive got a big fan on it now, I will run another heat/cool cycle and retorque everything.

I have the pedal and kit to change to the 67 style kickdown. Thats next once these bugs are worked out.

Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,432 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The digital tach came in today. No idea how accurate these things are, but I gave it a go.

1965 C-code 289/C4, rebuilt to stock specs, 500cfm carb, dual exhaust on stock manifolds.

At startup on fast idle it read 1770 rpm. I adjusted it down to 1100-ish.

When it came off fast idle and up to temp it read 780 rpm.

In drive it reads 600 rpm.

If it quits raining I will go for a spin and see how it runs and recheck the rpm again.

I think the timing is off, the piston stop will be here Monday so I will dig into the TDC issue then.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top