Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
66 Mustang Convertible
289, mostly stock with a few dress-up pieces and Pertronix III
Car runs great. Body is great. Cant seem to get Windshield Washer working :-(. Rear Window is almost opaque and has pulled form the top bow on the passenger side. Still planning my moves there. May go Split Glass rear window!

Looking to do Large Audio upgrade in about March (Bonus time). I currently have some type of Dash speaker, and small speakers in the door. maybe 4x8 or something? Came in the car. Also have a Custom Autosound USA-630 which came with it when i purchased. I assume alternator is stock, but i haven't worked on it yet, so that's a guess.

Want stuff hidden as much as possible.
Planning JL Audio C7 Component system - https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-speakers-c7-component-systems
2 Mids in dash (factory location)
Woofer and Tweeter in KickPanel
Hoping I can hide subs under rear seat. Have a fedex box about the same size as that Kicker Hideaway sub. Going to put it under the rear seat and see if my 300lb self crushes the box.

Tweeters - https://www.jlaudio.com/c7-650cw-car-audio-speakers-c7-9975
Mids - https://www.jlaudio.com/c7-350cw-car-audio-speakers-c7-99758
Woofers - https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-speakers-c7-component-systems
subs - https://www.kicker.com/hideaway
Crossover / Tuner / Pre Amp - https://www.jlaudio.com/twk-D8-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98102
Amp - https://www.jlaudio.com/vx600-6i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98639
Kick Panels - http://www.mpproductsstore.com/19mucokipaws.html

Existing Stereo - https://customautosoundmfg.com/product/custom-in-dash-radios/usa-630


Questions -
Is a stock Alternator up to this?

Seen a lot of people hating on my head unit, and I do want Bluetooth which is currently missing. Should I look at swapping with a retro hermosa or something? https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/hermosa

Other thoughts / expertise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Upgrading your audio system is always rewarding! Part of the fun is researching all the parts to buy. The not-so-fun part is having to buy all the parts! You've got some serious coin tied up in your selections.

My thoughts, for what's it's worth:
  • Kick panels: I've looked into this and the brand that I found didn't have very deep speaker pods, requiring the use of their thin speakers. Looks like you found a brand that has a much deeper pocket behind the panel. I would suggest ordering these first, getting them in hand, and planning speakers from there, based on what you can actually fit. The speakers you chose are 2.77" deep - I'd be a little surprised if they fit. Anyways, definitely worth ordering or calling the KP company to get the depth.
  • Not sure you really need mids in the dash. In my opinion, my ideal stereo system would only be front left and right component speakers with good tweeter placement and aim. The mids in the dash might throw the stereo imaging off a bit.
  • The crossover/preamp is really cool. It could just be me but it seems overkill for the system you're describing, especially one using an inexpensive head unit. However, I can understand wanting some sort of equalizer to balance the frequency responses since that head unit won't have much of an equalizer. BTW, if you go this route, look into the free Roomeqwizard software. Get a reference microphone and a laptop and then you can balance all your speakers to get a flat response, or what curve you're looking for. I used this in my truck to balance out my Hertz speakers, their crossovers, and the EQ built into my Kenwood Exelon head unit. Also, if you're going to play all your music over bluetooth from your phone, you might get by using your phone's equalizer and the crossovers that come with the speakers.
  • I see your components are adding up in the $3k range, so the head unit is the weak point, for sure. Especially if the bluetooth streaming quality is lacking. There was a recent thread about head units and there are a few companies that retrofit stock radios. Here are two links that looks pretty decent. They use the Aurora system that looks like several companies like this will install. This is likely the direction I will go in my 67.
  • Otherwise, I'd probably suggest mounting a modern head unit in the glove box that would better fit in with your high end components.
  • Ok, so I just noticed that the amp you listed shows that it has onboard DSP. Wouldn't that mean you don't need the crossover/preamp you listed? If you use this amp, I can definitly see this getting around the short comings of a head unit that doesn't have an equalizer or crossovers. This looks like a NICE piece!
    • Just noticed the amp allows for bluetooth streaming directly and an optional remote.
      • No need to get crazy with a head unit. I think you'll be fine with something inexpensive, maybe just keeping the head unit you already have. This amp, with bluetooth and DSP, means you don't need the separate crossover unit or a nice head unit.
Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just found this POST stating that 3" deep speakers will work fine with those speaker pods. If you search for MP products in this site, it looks like there are some mixed reviews on quality, FYI.
Thanks!!
I can get all but the head unit at wholesale, but its still a chunk of change! I think list is around $4500, but i can get it for $2357 (plus tax etc), not including new head unit.

I bought the kick panels already to test them out. Found them from the VMF forums. looks like decent clearance. I saw where some had recommended to back them in foam or something to stiffen them. not quite sure what to use there.

Checking out the radio links now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
481 Posts
I would research whats behind the door panels. Hopefully a speaker size that can be replaced with a nice quality set. Sealed door speakers will out perform the kick panel add ons any day. Some speakers like hybrid audio have convertibles as you can remove the tweeter and satellite mount it else where to keep the tweeters from contacting flat grills. I've installed many 730 CAS units and preouts are higher than most for a posted radio and has a basic eq and sub out controls.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,843 Posts
The DSP/tuner/crossover you have linked to is digital input only. Your head unit (or any that I am aware of that will fit in the stock location) will not have a digital output.

The list of items seems quite a bit overkill to me considering the rattly nature of our vintage vehicles... but overkill can be fun! If you haven’t already done so, sound treating your Mustang should be on the same list as upgrading the audio components, they go hand in hand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The DSP/tuner/crossover you have linked to is digital input only. Your head unit (or any that I am aware of that will fit in the stock location) will not have a digital output.

The list of items seems quite a bit overkill to me considering the rattly nature of our vintage vehicles... but overkill can be fun! If you haven’t already done so, sound treating your Mustang should be on the same list as upgrading the audio components, they go hand in hand.
oops! linked to the wrong one. they have an analog input one too. - https://www.jlaudio.com/twk-88-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98101

Was trying to cram in as much sound as possible. I think the door speaker size is a vintage-only 4x8 size for then they added 8-track option. Good idea to check it out more though. Made some assumptions and havent measured them myself.

My buddy who is helping has some dynomat to install. Was going to attack all areas opened up when performing this work. May need more / do more when i eventually replace the carpet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,179 Posts
I would get a head unit with BlueTooth hands-free for sure. It's hardly a luxury at this point and you can get head units with this capability for less than $20. You probably don't need a different alternator, but it's hard to decipher what the actual power draw is. It requires a 4 gauge wire and 50 amp fuse connected to the battery terminal and makes no mention of needing a capacitor or anything. Connection Guide
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,843 Posts
You probably don't need a different alternator, but it's hard to decipher what the actual power draw is. It https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/audio-upgrades-planned-any-advice.1167608/#toprequires a 4 gauge wire and 50 amp fuse connected to the battery terminal and makes no mention of needing a capacitor or anything. Connection Guide
Your alternator and entire charging system will be taxed by an audio setup like this, without a doubt! I recently ball parked some amp draw numbers to encourage somebody on the fence about upgrading their stock alternator... https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/3g-alternator-upgrade-a-few-questions.1167268/post-10273559

Stock alternator is only good for 45 amps of output (~540 watts @ 12v), so if you expect a 600+watt audio system to perform well AND have the car run without dimming lights to the beat of your music, you might want to consider an alternator upgrade. But if your not the type to crank your music loud and just want to enjoy the improved fidelity then you might be ok. The good news is you can always upgrade the alternator later if the stock one can’t keep up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Looking into alternators to support this (thanks for the advice). I see some good discussions here about them.

Leaning towards the 1 wire High Output ones. I like how its much more similar to OEM style.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.co...v-groove-pulley-factory-cast-plus-7078nj.html / https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7078nj/overview/

Looks like this is recommended to replace also;
Alternator Replacement Voltage Regulator https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7540
Tuff Stuff Performance Alternator Replacement Pigtail https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-754624/overview/
(is 8 GA enough?) - AKA is this a better option? https://www.paperformance.com/premium-short-9905/

Should I replace the starter solenoid while i'm in there? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7az-11450-a or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-sw7663/overview/year/1966/make/ford/model/mustang

TIA


Also, I have Pertronix FlameThrower III coil and ignitor if that makes a difference in this scenario.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
After reading all of this, I'm pretty much decided to go with a Retrosound Detroit, new dual coil dash speaker and new 6 x 9s in the back shelf. I'm not sure if I will do the kick panel speaker route or just leave them out. I like good sound but I like the nice exhaust roar too. Plus I don't have an unlimited budget for radio equipment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I literally just got my new Retrosound unit and JBL 6x9s in. I made a new package try and wrapped it in pleather, and it came out really good. I was proud of myself for doing that, you have an expensive and ambitious project planned, I would love to see the end pics! Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,046 Posts
I just ordered a radio delete plate from Tony Branda, A SBF with an Arvinode exhaust. Thats all the music I need!;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Also, put all my cash into CAA A/C, Carpet, and engine rebuild.

Haven't done audio upgrade yet, just swapped out cheapo speakers for some OK speakers center dash and where door was cut.
Probably 2 years away at this point form any meaningful audio upgrade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Also, put all my cash into CAA A/C, Carpet, and engine rebuild.

Haven't done audio upgrade yet, just swapped out cheapo speakers for some OK speakers center dash and where door was cut.
Probably 2 years away at this point form any meaningful audio upgrade.
Don't sweat it, I've been "working on" my audio system since 2012, when I bought the car 🤣 After three unsuccessful attempts to upgrade around a CAS USD-630, I've finally decided to scrap it and go with a quality head unit... You mentioned in a previous post wanting to go with as much hidden stuff as is possible... Here's the stealth solution that I'm going with:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,132 Posts
Ok... Crazy idea here...

Seat risers. Cut hole in top, insert Subwoofer, rock out!

Thoughts?
Sounds like a good use for the normally wasted space, but....

Remember that the seat bolts go through there and you take them out from the bottom. I know those rubber plugs in the bottom of the car /should/ stop water from getting up on to your amp, but I'd still be a little concerned that maybe they wouldn't.

Of course that all depends on where you're at and how you drive the car. If you don't really drive through much water you'd never have to worry about it. I live in Florida and drive through water all the time so maybe I'm just a little paranoid about it.

And will the amp be ok in an enclosed space with no airflow? I'm not sure if you'd have to worry about it overheating under there.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top