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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My 66 coupe is ins'd/reg'd and streetable, but it spends 95% of its time autocrossing. Currently running full SoT front with camber adj, 1 1/8" sway bar and hotchkis single adjustable shocks. My brakes are the standard 11" discs/drums. They work absolutely fine for my needs, but they do need to be better if I want to get better. My next step is either coil-over double adjustable to better control front rebound and stabilize the front....or....13" front, 11" rear Baer brakes. Both upgrades are roughly the same cost. I would consider wilwood but the hub moves outward 1/4"+ which would result in tire rub up front. I don't want the extra cost of having to change my rims for more offset cuz Baer keeps the stock hub location. What should I do, coil-over or brakes? This car does not do track, just autocross.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Im running an eaton trutrac, 3.90. Love it with the T5. Im having a difficult time determining the best move forward; some say brakes aren't the priority in autocross, focus on suspension. I've got a very good suspension but im fighting rebound; lifting the front under hard acceleration. Front springs unloading on exit, lighter spring & more rebound is needed. Obviously settled on Maier or Shaun. With better brakes, i can brake later, much later. Both will cut time, but which is the better improvement after 5 yrs of doin this? I can do one now, and the other during winter break.
 

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Im running an eaton trutrac, 3.90. Love it with the T5. Im having a difficult time determining the best move forward; some say brakes aren't the priority in autocross, focus on suspension. I've got a very good suspension but im fighting rebound; lifting the front under hard acceleration. Front springs unloading on exit, lighter spring & more rebound is needed. Obviously settled on Maier or Shaun. With better brakes, i can brake later, much later. Both will cut time, but which is the better improvement after 5 yrs of doin this? I can do one now, and the other during winter break.
You're running 3.90 gears with a T-5, what gear do you end up in during a run? I'm currently running 3.40 gears in my 8" and on the 9" I went with 3.25 because I'm running out of second gear at the fast course. I'm running the Mustang Steve 12.5" 2008 GT front disks on mine and it moved the tire out 1/8" per side vs the drums. I don't know how that would compare on a disk to disk conversion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Went from C4 to T5 in the winter. Minimal runs so far, but fells real good. Have an extra 3:55 3rd member in case I need to swap out. My rev limiter is set at 6K, and rarely hit it. 2nd gear thru an entire run. Run taller 235/45/17 tire. Folks running a 40 series that ARE running out of gear. Have yet to run the larger course at Crowslanding due to covid restrictions and reg limits. Will likely require 3rd on the straights; thats typically a 60-70 sec single lap, long and wide.
 

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Is you were drum all around I’d say disk but since you have disks up front already I’d say coil overs there so nice and positive feeling and look amazing
793094
 

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Went from C4 to T5 in the winter. Minimal runs so far, but fells real good. Have an extra 3:55 3rd member in case I need to swap out. My rev limiter is set at 6K, and rarely hit it. 2nd gear thru an entire run. Run taller 235/45/17 tire. Folks running a 40 series that ARE running out of gear. Have yet to run the larger course at Crowslanding due to covid restrictions and reg limits. Will likely require 3rd on the straights; thats typically a 60-70 sec single lap, long and wide.
I guess if the madness continues to grow we will both have center section's for both fast and slow courses. Glad I have a lift! I'm not sure what to suggest on brakes but I would try optimizing the Kelsey Hayes setup you already have with slotted rotors and Porterfield pads if you don't already have them. I'm constantly scolded by my autocross buddies, it's either full throttle or full brake, stop coasting! The better pads you have the longer they take to warm up and that can be detrimental when autocrossing especially in the Midwest.. It's always a balance. I think the big brakes aren't important until you do a track day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is you were drum all around I’d say disk but since you have disks up front already I’d say coil overs there so nice and positive feeling and look amazing View attachment 793094
I'm looking at upgrading my current SoT setup to Shaun's double adjustable bilstein coilover. Exactly what you have but adding the adjustability. Also have Maier chewing on my ear to use his Mod1 with JRi adjustables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As for the rotors, good idea, quick and easy swap going to slotted. Ive had Porterfield and they scared the crap out of me the first time I hit them cold. Went to EBC yellow which seem to work right off the bat, but prob doesn't have the stopping power as hot Porterfield. Wd only get 4 maybe 5 runs so having brakes on the get go is good.
 

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IMO do both coil overs and brakes.

I have a SOT Sport Front coil-over kit with Vintage Venom Fr & Rr 99-04 Cobra brakes (no longer in business). Both kits are great and never had a problem, the only thing with my current brake setup its using a spacer that sits between the rotor hat/brake hub and requires me to use 99-04 mustang wheels. the pro side to this is I can buy brake pads/OEM parts from the dealer or local auto parts store.

Since VV is no longer in business, I would recommend Mustang Steve who sells brake adapter kits that uses the new mustang brakes (this includes the Brembo 4 piston 6 piston caliper.) you'll need to email mustang steve to sell you the adapter and you can go to Rock Auto, Ford Dealer or eBay (used) to purchase the replacement calipers and rotors or buy the whole kit from him here: LARGE BRAKES All Wheel Disc Upgrade For Classic Fords - Mustang Steve

his kit retains the original track width, but you'll need to run a 17+ larger wheel or if you want to use the original wheels; wilwood, Bear, SOT or a kelsey hayes brakes might being something to look into.

I prefer to stick with OEM performance stuff, cuz you never know Wilwood, Baer, or SOT might go out of business (probably not going to happen) or discontinue their certain parts so servicing or replacing parts will be non-existant and will force you to upgrade your current existing kit.
 

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I'm looking at upgrading my current SoT setup to Shaun's double adjustable bilstein coilover. Exactly what you have but adding the adjustability. Also have Maier chewing on my ear to use his Mod1 with JRi adjustables.
Maier and Shaun have the best suspension for our cars no doubt the other brands are off the shelf’s and they don’t know the design of our cars, what I like about Shaun is the upgraded balljoints are top notchhhhhh. It also has so much adjustablilty with the camber kit also, it’s a debated wether it’s better to have the coil on the top of the UCA or on the lca I think it’s better on the lca because of the improved ratio and all modern cars have it that way McPherson struts. No mikes kit is really great and he’s a great guy
If your doing a big block or yote or want more room mikes mod 2 is the way to go but I think if you went with mod 1 you would notice little to no difference if they were non adjustable

If you go double adjustable then yes that’s a upgrade
Email Shawn and see if he will sell you just the double adjustable coil overs by themselves that might be cheaper than mod 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Made the commitment, bought the AS2 Bilstein d/adjustables coilovers and uca's, hardware. Shaun is gonna make requested changes to the shock valving and eliminate street valving and move the valve curve up. Now its simply having to wait for the build and parts, impatiently waiting for christmas, thank you covid.
 
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