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Discussion Starter #1
How does one remove the choke plate shaft without damaging it?
 

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I've never had one really "stuck". If all the screws are out, it may be hung on the flat side of the pivot arm, but a few taps should free it up. May have to take a thin knife blade, work it under the edge and give it a twist to separate them. Take the screws out that hold the plate in the shaft, mark which way is front, left and right, grab the plate with a pair of pliers and with it in the full open position, pull straight up to remove the plate. The shaft should slide out the end of the air horn cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got the choke plate out. Now having a difficult time with the throttle plates. They budge some but not much. Hate to take pliers to them.
 

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I'm curious. Why are you removing the plates? I've rebuilt countless carburetors, and I have not removed the plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm curious. Why are you removing the plates? I've rebuilt countless carburetors, and I have not removed the plates.
I bought this carb 2nd hand and its pretty gummed up and full of crud. Trying to get it as clean as possible while I'm rebuilding.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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I hate removing the plates. I'm always paranoid about those damn little screws falling out later.
 
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Been soaking for 2 hours now. At least part of it. I plan to do the rest tomorrow. What do I use to clean the plastic choke cover?
I cheated. I bought a new one. :giggle: I wouldn’t put anything but metal in the Berryman. Way back when I first started using it I was able to do a number on some plastic parts with it. I soaked my carb body because I was skittish about removing the plates. With dipping I was able to get it with small bottle brushes and a bit of labor. I used compressed air to blow out all the passages.
 

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Just clean the plastic choke cover with some WD-40 (or a little gas) etc, not a solvent like carb or brake cleaner. It's one thing to spray a little on em. It's another to soak em. Some solvents and alcohols are bad for plastics and bakelite.
 

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I’ve found Mike’s Carburetor website helpful when rebuilding my 2100. His rebuild kits are good, and has brass floats available if needed.





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Just an FYI, the screws on the plates are staked on the threaded end to keep them from coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So does the part at the yellow arrow move like a piston? If so, mine is stuck. Also the part in the other photo, is it cleaned by the carb cleaner or use something else?
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740570
 

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Yeah the first part moves just like a piston.
The second piece (the anti-stall dashpot) will clean with carb cleaner but don't soak it. It has a thin rubber diaphragm inside. Steel parts like the bracket it bolts to do well when soaked in pure white vinegar for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah the first part moves just like a piston.
The second piece (the anti-stall dashpot) will clean with carb cleaner but don't soak it. It has a thin rubber diaphragm inside. Steel parts like the bracket it bolts to do well when soaked in pure white vinegar for a while.
Thanks. I got the piston moving pretty well with a little nudge. Now it seems to be good. I'll work on cleaning up the dashpot. If it doesn't go well, I guess I'll hunt a dashpot down.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On the plates for the throttle, I can't get them out as it doesn't rotate all the way open. Does it need to go all the way open to get them out. Below is a picture where it hits when rotating them. You will see the plates closed in one photo and open as far as I can get them in another photo.
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CLOSED PLATES
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OPEN PLATES
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The pump lever is supposed to be free moving and not rigid to the shaft. Might be some corrosion has it stuck. Also, pay attention to the orientation of fhe plates. There are dimples that positively locate them on the shaft as well as their edges are chamfered to close in the bore correctly.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
The pump lever is supposed to be free moving and not rigid to the shaft. Might be some corrosion has it stuck. Also, pay attention to the orientation of fhe plates. There are dimples that positively locate them on the shaft as well as their edges are chamfered to close in the bore correctly.
I know about the orientation part, Just trying to figure out what to do about getting the plates and shaft out.
 

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Looks like you have some more exterior parts that have to come off first.
 
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