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Discussion Starter #1
Me, not the car. The car still has a ways to go in that regard.

I have a 64 1/2 coupe. I had planned to put a fitech efi kit on it. Pretty simple swap, right? Well, the last time I had the car on the road I drove it from Michigan to Arkansas and back, fighting overheating issues all the way. The next spring when I backed it out of the garage I noticed that it was blowing out a pretty decent amount of blue smoke. I let it run for a while thinking that it might stop with the smoke, but that wasn't the case. Revving the engine produced clouds of blue smoke. Thinking it over, I figured that the overheating probably either damaged the heads, the block, or stuck a ring to a piston. Any way I looked at it, the engine was going to have to be torn down to some degree.

The old D code 289 had already been rebuilt once and was already bored .030 over and it had a .010 under crank kit in it. At this same time I had been considering installing a 4R70w trans and was trying to figure out how I'd make it work with the 5 bolt D code block. I decided that the thing to do would be to replace both the engine and the transmission at the same time.

So, I found and bought a 5.0 from a 98 Exploder and a 4R70w trans from an '01 3.8L Mustang. I tore down the 5.0 and took the block and heads to my local machine shop where they bored the block .040 over and replaced one or two valves in the heads. Now, let me just say that I wasn't looking to build a high revving screamer of an engine; I am more concerned with reliability than speed, so I kept the engine as close to stock as possible. The engine is put back together, fitech installed, starts and runs great.

The transmission on the other hand...Not knowing the condition of the trans (its a JY trans) I decided that it should probably be rebuilt. I have never rebuilt an automatic transmission before so I found a video series on Youtube and tried to follow along exactly as the videos demonstrated. I'm sure that I must have messed something up because the trans doesn't work.

This was two years ago and to make matters just a little worse, I had a heart attack at the tender age of 49 while scratching my head over why the trans didn't want to work. A quintuple bypass, an implanted defibrillator, and lots of rehab later I'm back to around 50% and I'd really like to get this car off the jack stands and back on the road. It bugs me to no end to walk out to the garage and see the old girl laid up.

At this point I guess I have a few options. I can pull the 4R70w and tear it back down to try to see where I went wrong, or I can see about rebuilding the C4 and finding either a 6 bolt bellhousing that will accommodate the 164 tooth flex plate or a 157 tooth 50 oz flex plate. Heck, at this point I'd be willing to throw a t5 in it if it wasn't so expensive.

I'm kind of on the fence about the options, so advice and opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The 4R is the best of the AODs. You can program the shifts with the controller. I plan on switching to one instead of my FMX. Don't miss the chance to have overdrive and slow that engine down. Get the 4R rebuilt by a shop, tell them that you've rebuilt it and they need to straighten it out. I'll bet its something simple. ;)
 

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Which direction would you prefer to go? I do think that you should get the 4R70w straightened out. However, I think you should do it the way you prefer, be it either by having a shop do it or you doing it yourself. It seems to me that the most important thing is for you to accomplish your goal. If that is simply to get the Mustang back on the road, then go ahead and have a shop do it. If really want to do the work yourself, then don't worry about the time it takes and instead enjoy the process of fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys. I am leaning towards trying to fix the 4R70w. Driving 12 hours at 3000 rpm and 14 mpg is what made me want the swap in the first place and that hasn't changed.

I did recently learn that it's possible to install the pump impeller backward and I think it's possible that I may have done that. Checking the fluid with the engine running, it shows way over full on the dipstick with 10 quarts in the trans, so I suspect that the pump isn't moving the fluid.

Anyway, I won't know until I get the trans out and take a look. I probably will go ahead and get the bad shoe video first and learn all I can before getting started.

One question hopefully someone can answer, obviously I haven't been able to drive the car since starting work on it. Just out of curiosity, what can I expect in terms of hp with the 5.0 vs the 289? I'm just wondering if it will be a noticeable difference. Other than the overbore, the edelbrock intake and fitech it's a bone stock 98 explorer engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I believe I found the problem with the 4R70w. I can confirm now that it is indeed possible to install the pump gears upside down. I can also confirm that doing so will, in fact, render them unusable. I don't suppose anyone has a set of .608 pump gears or better yet a pump they don't intend to use laying around? Everything else in the trans looks like it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Been looking at used and rebuilt pumps. Mine has the parts number RF-YL3P 7A105-AA. I'm seeing a lot of pumps that match the 7A105-AA, but several different varieties of the first combination.

Will a pump work for my trans if the first combination is different but the second is the same?
 
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