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Discussion Starter #1
I had my car hauled to the guy that installed the C-4. The flexplate had broken around the bolt holes, so the flexplate was just freewheeling there on the torque converter! He paid for a new flexplate, I paid for the labor, and now I'm back on the road! He said he hadn't seen anything like that before (atleast not with only four months wear on it). The only thing I can figure is it was either defective from the manufacturer, or I had the front band tightened too much from when I installed my shift kit, resulting in additional stress on the flexplate (DOH!) He also checked my oil leak, it looks like it was the intake manifold. He tightened the bolts down good and I didn't get any leaking/smoking on the way home on the freeway. Idle also seems a little smoother, so maybe that fixed a vacuum leak too. He said bolts in aluminum intakes sometimes work themselves loose a bit if you don't use locktite on the threads. I guess I'll make a point of tightenting them up periodically. Thanks for the help guys :)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I noticed when I fired the car up the clicking sound was still there. I opened the hood, and noticed the fan had been hitting the bottom radiator hose! The hose was worn down to the metal and the ends of the fan blades were wearing pretty badly. It was making a hell of a noise! Evidently I have one or more motor mounts that need replaced. This was apparently the sound I had been hearing lately. Are motor mounts pretty easy to replace?

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 
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Yuck! - Don't you ever get anything easy to fix, like wiperblades?? Are you sure the problem is motor mounts and not something else -- like a poorly positioned hose or improper fan spacer?

If you must change the mounts, you can probably get to them by lifting the engine 6 inches or so with a hoist, but you will have to unbolt the transmission from its mount as well. In addition, you would probably have to loosen hoses, fuel lines, wiring, etc. to avoid stretching or snapping something.



Cecil Bozarth

1966 GT Coupe (Tahoe Turquoise with black pony interior)

1994 GT Convertible
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The hose and spacer have been in place for nearly three years and never a problem until recently... that's why I'm guessing it's failing motor mounts. I'm also getting a little vibration in the cab that I probably shouldn't feel (the engine is running pretty smoothly). Are there other possibilities? The PO had one motor mount replaced when he had the new (rebuilt) Jasper 289 installed about 34 months ago. Why he wouldn't go ahead a replace both at such an opportune time is beyond me. Thanks :)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 

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Yup, I've never seen that either, even on racing engines...

Go figure....add one more possibility to the library....*G*

Pat
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Discussion Starter #6
If I had the front band too tight, it could theoretically cause added resistance, resulting in more stress on the flexplate, right? When I installed the shift kit, I THOUGHT I had it torqued to 10 ft/lbs minus 1.5 turns, but the tranny was locked down. So I backed off until the car would roll and that's pretty much where I left it. The shifts were plenty firm ;) Where I work on the car (using ramps) it's hard to manuever a torque wrench accurately. Tomorrow I'll stop by my local shop (about five miles from my house) and have him check it. I'm not sure the tranny shop thought to check it, and I was too embarrassed to ask them to. I'd hate for the same thing to happen to this flexplate... It was an expensive lesson to learn ($30 to get it home, $75 to haul it 40+ miles to the tranny shop, $160 for the labor at the shop... and I'm no better off than I was before it happened). Do I qualify for the doofus award? ;)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 

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It's a piece of cake. Put a 2x4 on your jack, and put it under the oil pan (spreads out the force so it doesn't dent the pan). Do one side at a time. Jack the engine, just till there's resistance. Loosen all the bolts on one mount.

Now wIth the bolts out of the one side, jack the engine up a little just to give the needed clearance to remove the mount. Bolt the new mount to the block, and lower it back down and install the frame bolt.

Repeat for the other side. It's a piece of cake, and shouldn't have to lossen/remove any other parts.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
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