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1967, Ford, Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #1
so I purchased a lime gold green 1967 mustang coupe sport sprint. She has power steering, factory AC, and is pretty much stock.
She has terrible rust in the usual spots. The reason quarter panels both have to be replaced, passenger floor pan, and who knows what else. I live in Missouri, and its often very wet, and very dry, very cold, and very hot. Not ideal. Does anyone have advice for bad rust, and anything else seeing as I am new here.
I have done fixes and upgrades, I had to replace the radiator. So I put in an aluminum one, I had to bypass the heater core because it leaked onto my passenger seat, had to get her running, she doesn't like to start.
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68 Mustang Coupe
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If thats the extent of the rust, count your blessings. How are the floor pans and rails?
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Yep, that rust itself wouldn’t be considered too bad. The rust to worry about is what you don’t see. I would get it up on a lift and poke around with an awl to see what else might be lurking. Front fenders, behind the wheel well is another common spot and the cowl. Put some towels on the floor at the firewall and pour some water down the cowl and see if water enters the interior. Since you are doing the passenger floor pan, pull the carpet and see how the driver side looks. I would also check the trunk drop off in the rear, where they meet the lower rear quarter and rear wheel wells.

Cut out the rust you find and replace with new, well prepped metal. Are you planning to do the work yourself or hire it out?

I love the classic colors. Is that original paint? Post more pics and let us know what you find. There are a ton of knowledgeable, helpful people on this forum that will be help you along the way!
 

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Looking at the cowl from what little I ca see it looks good. Most of the time if the cowl lip area is bad then the car is going to be bad.
 

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Nice looking car.

I am so jealous of that AC and console right now.

Rust is fixable, as long as you know where it's all at and people haven't hidden it behind bondo and shiny paint.
 

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1967, Ford, Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #7
I refuse to do bondo, I want it to be welded metal. It is original paint I believe, it's not so pretty up close. They left it sitting for for years in and out of their garage. I don't know how to weld, so I'll probably hire a professional, but everything else like mechanical, wiring, interior, I can learn, and I want to do. I'm freshly 17, and I got the car for 2 grand from a neighbor.
She's no where near it at the moment, but I want her to be a daily driver, respectfully of course. She has a 289 v8. Which I love and will probably, if I can help it, never change. Drum brakes, old suspension, then bulbs from the factory, she's all old school. I'm considering newer suspension, like coil overs, something that feels better. Disk brakes I think is a must, the manuel drum brakes scare me a little. I live the look of the stock radio so I don't think I'll change that. I'll probably save up for a rare am/fm 67 radio, and put that in.
I also believe the car was in an accident, after I purchased her, I did extra research and found the hood doesn't have the turn signals that came with the "sport sprint" package. The passenger fender frame looks crooked, and I have a box full of extra parts they gave me, it includes a headlight socket and headlight retainer.
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68 Mustang Coupe
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There WILL be body filler, aka bondo, no way around it to get the panels smooth. If you're gonna pay someone to weld in the panels I hope your pockets are deep. While youre there, have them add the p side torque box, and maybe convertible inner rockers. I'm not sure coil springs are gonna help it feel any better. Rebuild the stock suspension and do the shelby drop on the front, have Chocko rebuild your steering box and she'll be driving right in no time.
 

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Welcome! Where in MO are you?

You do have a bit of rust you'll need to address. The rust spots on the top of the aprons seem a little odd. Looks like you'll be doing (at least) portions of your floor pans, if not the whole length.

The trunk drop offs need to be looked at also. The driver's side is under that particle board 'shelf' in your pic. The drop off is not the inside of the quarter panel, but it does weld to the bottom of it.

Passenger side pic below.

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68 Mustang Coupe
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Actually the rust on top of the aprons is fairly common. It's where the two panels overlap.
 
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Trust me, there’s much more hidden rust. Once you start poking around and cutting sections out it’ll surface.

Welcome, this board is Great!
 

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Unfortunately to fix that the right way the car is going to need to be stripped to the shell and the metal addressed. If you can see that much there is a ton more. The hidden places get damaged well before you start showing it on the outside or the wells.

Not unsurmountable just a great deal of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll quickly grab some more pics, and yeah, the rust is gonna be difficult to figure out. I highly appreciate all the feedback on here, I have been looking at diagrams and all of that to try and figure it out, but this seems much more helpful. Thank yall kindly. Here's pictures of the drop offs. And as regards to doing myself, I'd hate to do it as I learn to weld, I don't want her to be filled with mistakes caused by me. I know I should strip her to the bate frame and do rust restoration from there before anything, but I'm on a budget for now, and I'm not to knowledgeable on cars in general
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Actually the rust on top of the aprons is fairly common. It's where the two panels overlap.
Yeah, seriously. Easy enough to fix with the fenders off but mine came back. :(
 

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I understand what you are saying. My Mustang was is my first car and has a lot of sentimental value. I want it to be perfect. But I cant afford to pay someone to fix the metal for me. I bought a welder and am practicing on any scrap I can find. I still think I'll make mistakes, but I learned with mechanical repairs that the pride of doing it yourself (or with a little help) is worth it. Also it can be re fixed later. I'm redoing a floor pan patch that wasn't well done the first time.
 

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My suggestion is to drive the car and enjoy it. It's going to cost a fortune to fix all that rust, and you'd be better with a better starting point.
 
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Paying someone to repair that rust Correctly will cost you more than you can imagine. And the car will be worth No More than a non rusted car.

But you Can handle the work yourself if you try. The support on this board is INCREDIBLE!

Anything you want to do has been done here already by many guys who will walk you through it.

Go for it,......
 

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It will be financially less painful to purchase a welder and learn to weld. You will learn a new skill and know your car was fixed the correct way.
 
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