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Discussion Starter #1
The specs: 70 Mach

351c built (without going into detail 375 rwhp)

5 speed

Global west subframe connectors welded in.

9” 3.50 TruTrac axle completely gone thru.

All new “Factory suspension in rear and when I say new I mean new “everything..)

The problem: “Massive” wheel hop when laying down a two tire fire from a dead stop every once in a while just for fun... so bad I have to let off the gas in fears I’m going to snap something...

Don’t want to spend a lot- already have on this 1.5 year restoration..

Help——-
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah as I said they are new leags I forget if it’s the four or five

They R the factory height.

Also forgot to mention I’m running 15 x 8
295 x 50 x 15 Cooper’s in back
 

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Either get a set of Cal-Tracs or the Shelby style traction bars. Stronger springs would help some but probably not eliminate the problem. It definitely can break something if you stay in it while it's going one, from engine mounts to spider gears to the snout of the third member......
Cal Tracs are easy to install, no welding required, they're not too conspicuous either. They require changing the bushing out of the front of the spring. The Shelby style underrider bars are much cheaper cost wise, but require welding of the front mount. You can also go the old school route with a set of bolt on traction bars, they will work, but they hang down quite low. If you go that route get the better set that takes place of the lower spring mount and not the kind that use a u-bolts to hold them on. I don't recommend those though.
 

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there are many sophisticated (and pricey) solutions for wheel hop. Nothing against them, but many times wheel hop can be eliminated by a set of basic TractionMaster bars, exactly like the ones used on the early GT350's. The cost is a reasonable $120.

Traction Master Company

I had wheel hop on my '65 K code, and it only got worse with the addition of a Weber carb set. A set of tractionmaster bars completely eliminated the problem, and the car was fun to drive again.

Will the TractionMasters work in every situation ? No, some issues will only be solved by spending more money on a more sophisticated system of wheel control. A little research goes a long way toward picking the right product.

Z
 

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Like he ^ said, there's only two ways of approaching it..... a smaller amount of cash that may
fix it or a larger amount of cash that may fix it.

If all you want is straight line performance, the TM bars will probably address it.
If you want to also go through curves you're going to have to upgrade your factory-style
rear springs.
First diagram is what happens to a regular spring under heavy acceleration.
Second photo is a type of spring with a full length 2nd leaf that serves as an internal
method of controlling spring wind-up.
 

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Either get a set of Cal-Tracs or the Shelby style traction bars. Stronger springs would help some but probably not eliminate the problem. It definitely can break something if you stay in it while it's going one, from engine mounts to spider gears to the snout of the third member......
Cal Tracs are easy to install, no welding required, they're not too conspicuous either. They require changing the bushing out of the front of the spring. The Shelby style underrider bars are much cheaper cost wise, but require welding of the front mount. You can also go the old school route with a set of bolt on traction bars, they will work, but they hang down quite low. If you go that route get the better set that takes place of the lower spring mount and not the kind that use a u-bolts to hold them on. I don't recommend those though.
Note that the Foxbody GT's had a shock fastened to the top of the rear housing I guess for wheel hop... Thank God for aftermarket sources!
 

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A quick and dirty solution can be to clamp the front of the leaves. They can be purchased or fabricated in the garage.

You can also change your technique when doing a burnout. If you snap or dump the clutch, you're shocking the drivetrain and causing the springs to unwrap violently. A gradual application of power and clutch until you overpower the tires is often a better way to go.
 

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I would splurge on the cal tracs...Why cheap out now or try a few things that really aren't the be all end all. I had bad wheel hop as well...changed the leaf springs and added Shelby weld on traction bars...that fixed it, but I bet the Caltracs would have been easier and better for a little more money and a lot less time. Your car sounds like it deserves them!
 

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I had a horrible wheel hop and tried 4 1/2 springs and Shelby style traction bars with little improvement. What fixed it 100% was a pair of Bilstein rear shocks with street valving. You can get them from one of our VMF forum sponsoring venders! Around $200 a pair and worth every penny in my case! Wheel hop does bad things!
 

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CalTracs will 100%, positively, without a doubt, cure the wheel hop, and if you make it to the track, you'll get tunability. It's a great product, made in America by a great company and a true drag racing family. They offer great customer service and most of the time I needed some detailed tech advice on setup for my application, John Calvert himself answered the phone, and spent as much time as needed talking to me about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wanted to thank all of you members for the feedback!!

Your expertise is much appreciated...
 

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my set up, 351W bored and stroked to 408. Rear Leaf springs upgraded to 5 leaf Scott Drake C5ZZ-5560-HD. No clue as to what the spring rate is but definitely stiffer than stock. Car already had a set of no name slapper bars on it when I got it. Gabriel Hijacker air shocks, and a 3.0 rear end ratio with limited slip. Tires 295/50 15 BFG Radial TA's.

No wheel hop
 

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I have a 70 Mach 1 with a 351C 4V and a TKO 5speed trans. I had standard 4 leaf springs with the Shelby/Tractionmaster under rider traction bars and no wheel hop. I recently switched to Mike Maier rear springs for better handling(firm ride and 1" lower than stock) and removed the under rider bars, still no wheel hop. So either way worked for me.
 

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My $0.02... don’t install the Shelby underriders, go with CalTracs or similar (a solid bar with no extra movement binds the suspension badly).

I had massive wheel hop in my 67 with a 351W. I changed out my original leaf springs to a HD 4 leaf and that helped some, but it was still bad. I then installed the under ride bars and it fixed the wheel hop issue but then caused the suspension to bind up during movement creating a bump induced over steer issue. I dealt with it for awhile (broke college student) and then one day at the drag strip I (technically a good friend was in the drivers seat at the time, he still feels bad about it) launched the car, and BANG! The front bracket for the underride bar sheared right off!

I ended up on building a set of traction bars, similar to the Shelby ones but mine can telescope, so no binding with suspension movement. I used old strut rod bushings to provide the needed give and damping to keep the axle under control. They have been working great for over 10 years now.
 

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No more burn outs until you make some changes to fix. If you are down this way, (SC) I would make you a deal on some Bilstein shocks and leaf springs that would take care of the hop. I changed to a 3 link a few years ago.

Just saw your post, Cal Tracks will do the trick.
 

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I installed Traction Masters™ years ago on my blueprinted, port-matched 289HP with 3-2V intake and 4-speed with Traction-Lok™ axle, and went from bad wheel hop to no wheel hop.
 
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