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Flexing the humour limits of my SWMBO I worked on stang through the easter, day and nite, and finally got it all installed together. Here's a list of mods I did in preparation for the installation...

- Boxed lower control arms, changed lower arm bushings to stiffer ones. Painted em.
- Made my own wedge kit for 1.5" shelby mod.
- Painted upper arms, changed to L-shaped grease fittings. (Bushings were in good shape.)
-Drilled the new holes to the car. With a good hand drill, drilling oil and quality bits, it was a snap. Filed, cleaned and painted unprotected surfaces to prevent rust.
-Installed front BAER discs to the spindles

Key learnings from installation:
1. When installing upper arms to the newly drilled holes, remove bolts from upper arms, align holes and push the bolt through. I tried with bolts installed to upper arms and got the arm stuck in a strange angle inside the wheelwell and had some fun trying to get it out again.
2. Baer kit flex lines had a different size thread than my mustang hard line connectors. Cut the hard lines and try to find a shop that has brake connectors and is open on national holiday. (Unbelievably enough, I found them from one gas station after a hint from local HD biker gang.)
3. BAER rear kit requires you to use lowering blocks in the rear to fit in the calipers (bleeding connector up) without parking brake bracket interference to the leaf springs.
Luckily enough I had a lowering block kit, which I had earlier decided not to use because it lowers the car too much. This requirement is not mentioned anywhere in the instructions. All I had to do was to mill away half of the block to find a compromise between caliper interference and tire rub. (I bought milling bits for my bench drill from local flea market during weekend.) Finally everything fit together.
4. Bleeding the brakes. (my first brake job ever) During beeding I found out that several brakeline connectors did not hold the juice. Glad I decided to go with silicon fluid (directly against Baer instructions), otherwise I would have spoiled a lot of the paint.
First I noticed a problem in the front of the car where I installed the proportioning valve. I kept tightening until I was sure they can't be loose (A MISTAKE), they still did not hold the fluid. Then I opened the connectors and realised that I had made a bad double flare which was off the center of the hard line end (this can be accomplished with a flaring tool which doesn't tighten perfectly around the tube, i.e. tube o.d. is a bit too big for the tool). Tightening too much destroyed the connectors in prop. valve. I went and bought new connectors and made a new flare and that did it... for the front. Now that the front of the system wasn't bleeding anymore and was actually putting some pressure to the rear of the car, I found a similar mistake in the rear too. This time bying new connector to the flex line...

Ehh, let's put it this way: The only way to learn how to do it is to do it.

Cheers,
Claypso69
 

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<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

Glad I decided to go with silicon fluid (directly against Baer instructions), otherwise I would have spoiled a lot of the paint.

<hr></blockquote>


You may not be too happy as time goes on and especially if you have to send anything back to Baer under warranty. Companies specify NOT using silicone fluid for a reason.

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1967 351W Convertible
2000 Mustang GT
 
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