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Discussion Starter #1
Morning fellas:

I got my rotating assembly apart, following the Motor Meltdown and it looks like the only broken metal is the oil pump shaft. The crank and rods look good suprisingly. The pieces in the pan that I thought were metal actually were plastic pieces of the timing chain that had broken off.

So my question is what a fair price is to get this machined and rebuild. I'm planning on new pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets, as well as a budget head rebuild while they're off. The bores need cleaned up, probably .030 over. I can do all of the external accessory reassembly and reinstallation of course. I really just want the cam and rotating assembly assembled right, and the heads placed and torqued down. This isn't a HiPo build by any means. Cast or Hyper- Pistons, etc.

I've seen Rebuilt 289 long blocks for $1139.

Is that ABOUT what it should cost to rebuild mine? :: ::

Thanks,
Jason :highfive:
 

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Short block is about $550 in Dallas, long block around $800. No machine shop will touch it for that price. That price is a volume, cheap parts, throw it in, drive it for a while and dump it price.

Good quality parts, more precision work, start at $1500 and up, depending on the goodies.
 

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Yeah here in the Bay area $1100 gets you in the door, but with upgraded parts and balancing you get to about $2200 for a long block, these are FE prices though but should be comparable. I am talking to a couple of builders right now and hope to finalize my plans soon.
 

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My 289 was about $2000. Granted it was the first time it had been rebuilt so the heads needed to have hardened seats on the exhaust. Nothing special was done to it. It was bored .040 with a mild cam. I did the assembly myself.
 

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In Jax I can get one built for $1200 out the door.
$850 if I assemble it. Which I prefer.

" I really just want the cam and rotating assembly assembled right, and the heads placed and torqued down. This isn't a HiPo build by any means"
You can do this yourself. Buy "how to rebuild a Small block Ford"
You can do this rebuild....ask questions if you get stumped...People here help each other out.
It is a P.O.C
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Never really thought about it. :horror:

So I'd just need to get the machine work farmed out. What do I need done. wash/degrease the block and heads, Cylinder bore/hone, balance the rods and pistons, that it?

I just don't want to screw it up!
 

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I am all for assembling the top end yourself but given the price of machining vs. buying a short or long block, it just makes sense to have them assemble and balance the bottom end. Just my $0.02, but the tolerances are a lot tighter on the rotating assembly, I don't want to risk it.
 

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Abanaenginerebuilders.com $650 for my 66 289, bored out .0030, different cam, assembled minus intake, valve covers and oil pan. Haven't had any complaints so far and it looks like they did a fantastic job. They're based out of Miami.
 

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Long block for a qualtity job would be about 2 grand, i had my heads rebuilt 2 years ago and that cost 880 dollars, with port and polishing and the whole deal, so it can get pretty pricey
 

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I think I spent about $500 for the lower end machine work. This included decked head, line bore crank journals, 0.030 bore on the cylinders, grind the crank, rebuild rods and dynamic balance. Heads were around $250 for a 3 angle valve job with hardened exhaust valve seats.

I did all of the disassembly and reassembly to save on cost. I think that doing an engine yourself is very rewarding, especially when you are listening to it purr down the road.

I would highly recommend high strength oil pump drive rod, ARP rod and head bolts, good set of bearings (Clevite 77s), and a set of hypereutectic pistons. Also spend the extra $150 or so and get it dynamically balanced from the flywheel to your NEW harmonic balancer. I recomend the hypereutectic pistons because they are stronger than cast and do not expand as much as forged. Summit Racing has some good deals on engine kits.

Good bottom end = good foundation to build on later if you choose to.
 

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Read the book and learn. Some one spoke of $880 for their heads to be ported and polished,,,,this is why I do this all myself. I hate paying someone for something I can do.
*disclaimer...I understand that some people don't have the time or patience to do such a task...so I am not giving you heat. :)
 

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I think I spent about $500 for the lower end machine work. This included decked head, line bore crank journals, 0.030 bore on the cylinders, grind the crank, rebuild rods and dynamic balance. Heads were around $250 for a 3 angle valve job with hardened exhaust valve seats.

I did all of the disassembly and reassembly to save on cost. I think that doing an engine yourself is very rewarding, especially when you are listening to it purr down the road.

I would highly recommend high strength oil pump drive rod, ARP rod and head bolts, good set of bearings (Clevite 77s), and a set of hypereutectic pistons. Also spend the extra $150 or so and get it dynamically balanced from the flywheel to your NEW harmonic balancer. I recomend the hypereutectic pistons because they are stronger than cast and do not expand as much as forged. Summit Racing has some good deals on engine kits.

Good bottom end = good foundation to build on later if you choose to.
Very solid advice.
 
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