Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!
  • May's Ride of the Month contest ended with a tie! Go to this thread to vote on the winner! VOTE HERE
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any detailed info for a '66 March NJ coupe? I want to fill it out correctly.

Is there anybody that does this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,807 Posts
Mike I've spent as much time as anyone (I think) on the battery inspection decals and here is what I know about 66 NJ decal

1- Nothing - I don't know anyone that has found a 65-66 NJ unrestored Mustang with an intact and readable decal

2- The decal originally was an uncoated paper based decal (kind of like envelope labels) so they didn't last long if exposed to moisture

3- We pretty well know that they were not stamped with the round circle with the number in the middle that you see everywhere (another year and plant)

Only IDEA is that it was filled out in either pencil or dark pen (would expect black) First box would likely contain an "ok" or hydrometer reading like "12.5" Center box might be the month and date and the final box would likely IMHO an inspectors initial or number.

Sorry I could not be more help... but would love to see one if one was out there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
The number written on the tag was a measure of "specific gravity" of the battery. The electrolite/acid has a certain specification that actually varied by location.We used a hydrometer to test charge status.If it was too low it needed charging to meet that spec.Prevented over/under charging. Far north locations versus far south had different spec. It was a measure of "potency" so to speak. It shows what the fully charged measurement should be. I'd have to look back through my old shop notes to see what each region was supposed to have. I think they blended the acid for each region and supplied the assembly plants with batteries suitable to the area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,807 Posts
Never head different mixes for different plants.

Did allot of measuring of auto batteries using a hydrometer during the early 70 working in repair shops and gas stations ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, I've seen both the SG# and OK. I used the SG method to charge the battery.

So to be safe, I could use a black pen and enter the information, and have no point deductions?

Since I'm the inspector, I think I'll use my initials. :p

Thanks again,

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,807 Posts
Don't get to cute but right now (and you know how picky I am ;) I would not deduct points because it is based on the best information currently available.

Not sure if Charles would make a different choice but it's better than a blank decal or one filled out incorrectly IMHO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,832 Posts
Here's what I've noted of NJ battery stickers though I'll admit I don't recall 65/66 so these are later (predominately 68)

As Jeff mentioned front box filled with OK or sg reading. SG reading was typically in 4 digit format, IE 12.50 would be written as 1250. Most appear to be handwritten in black ink.
Date can be hand written but most are stamped, black ink, traditional format of month/day
I've seen inspector's stamp handwritten and stamped but always inspectors initials. Font and size appear to be same as date stamp.
 
G

·
I'd agree that something on the sticker is better than blank. As mentioned, the specific gravity reading is generally noted, like 1250 and hand-written. Dates have been found to be hand-written or stamped like NOV 3 65. Inspector markings are all over the place, so that is pretty much open. Your initials would be fine, or simply a stamped number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Typically the reading of specific gravity for an automotive battery would be around 1.260 . Too many people fill it out more like a voltage reading (12.5) which is not correct.
Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
Well, I know how "picky" we all are and want to get every detail correct. Wish I could go back through all my Ford training manuals to find the info on different specific gravity specs for different regions,BUT I can't. What I DO know is the specific gravity reading for most regions is 1.250. Battery VOLTAGE is more like the other number....( 12.50 )Gotta dot your I's and cross your T's in this business. :loco: If I ever find the specific gravity correction specs I'll pass them on. Probably splitting "fine hairs" anyway. But make sure you get the decimal point in the right place! Those are the things I notice and I'm not a head judge. :deadhorse:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,807 Posts
CharlesTurner said:
....Dates have been found to be hand-written or stamped like NOV 3 65. .........

We need to be specific about plants and years since the problem right now IMHO is that the lines are getting blurred

Charles you mentioned stamped dates. Where and when was the car you mentioned built.

My observations so far have been that the some written and some stamped has been a 64-66 Dearborn thing (sure there is a better pattern but not enough samples yet)

ALso mike66sue (before I forget it) I would suggest using the sticker with the black format rather than the later style (not sure its being widely reproduced but just in case)

Also some of the battery check decals are too larger or have rounded corners. Stay IMHO with the square corners.

Scott ... thanks for the specific gravity correction - have examples down to 1.245
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jeff_Speegle said:
ALso mike66sue (before I forget it) I would suggest using the sticker with the black format rather than the later style (not sure its being widely reproduced but just in case)

Also some of the battery check decals are too larger or have rounded corners. Stay IMHO with the square corners.

Scott ... thanks for the specific gravity correction - have examples down to 1.245
:thumbsup:
 
G

·
Here's a pic that Mike M. took of a late '65 Dearborn car. Believe it had less than 10k original miles.

http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/65_battery_ok.jpg

Hard to tell, but does not appear to have a dot between the 1 and 2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,807 Posts
Sorry ... should have checked my files. Found the same picture ;)

Wish we had more examples
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
It is hard to tell since the dot would probably be the faintest pen mark on the decal. But in looking at it it seems plausible that the technician in his haste or by design just left off the decimal point knowing that the final inspectors knew what was important to look for (like a range of acceptable numbers).
Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
813 Posts
This may have nothing to do with how Ford measured specific gravity of batteries, but I have worked with this kind of stuff for 45 years and it was unheard of to call a battery reading "twelve point six oh". It was understood by all concerned what the reading was (we used to charge batteries in a "bank", maybe six or eight at a time and measure the specific gravity of each one until fully charged) and everyone concerned looked for a reading of "twelve sixty". The battery was then removed from the charging bank when that reading was attained. While in the very hot climate of South East Asia in the late sixties, we would dilute the gravity of acid to prevent battery boiling due to intense heat. One had to remember "AAA" (always add acid) and to never pour distilled water into the acid, always pour acid into the water to avoid accidents and instant boiling of the acid. I feel that in a factory setting the person that measured the gravity of the battery would only write the 1260 reading and not add the decimal point. I am betting that a simple 1260 was on those little tags since probably a factory worker did not have the slightest idea what he was writing. Just my 02$ (no decimal).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
The Battery sticker on my Aug 64 coupe is filled out as follows
1250 8-26 2 All hand written.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top