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Beau's 68 Coupe

376181 Views 621 Replies 139 Participants Last post by  Dave the Pole-Sitter
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I like to take pictures of my cars and what I do to them, so I plan on using this as my build thread. First things first though, I am not a mechanic. I work on my cars for fun and therapy. I screw things up sometimes, so bear with me. If I do something stupid, be gentle.

Here is the car the day I got it:







I bought it from a friend of the family for an amazing price. I bugged the owner for years about it, persistence paid off. He had it restored around 6 years ago, and it was rarely driven after that. It sat for a long time, so it needs some love. The tires would not even try to inflate when air was put to them, there were very weather cracked. New ones were put on immediately so that I could roll this thing around.



The next thing I did was try and start it. I changed the oil, drained the gas tank, and topped off the coolant. I plopped a new battery in, and she started right up. I was amazed. The previous owner had the engine re-built when it was painted, but I was still surprised. I rolled it out and washed it.



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Cool stuff! What year is your car? The earlier cars have narrower shock towers, might be an issue. It looks like your intake still goes over the valve cover. If so, your engine is way lower than mine. You must not have power steering if it clears down there, the starter was my main issue. I ditched the oil cooler, really help clean up the engine compartment. I also see you are sticking with a distributor, I don't think I have the room for that.

Let me know if I can help with anything!
mines a 68 also. without power steering and the intake is still over the valve cover. so if its lower thats probably why my turbo area is tighter. i did have to remove the crossmember to get it that far back. im using a mustang2 oil pan. i have an 88 tbird im using for a donor and plan to reuse as much as possible from it. if you put a straightedge from inner fender to inner fender how much under that edge is your valve cover top? and how far is your engine from the firewall? thanks.
Gotcha. I am also using a m2 (pinto) oil pan, I had to cut and drop the lower crossmember a few inches. Measured across the inner fenders, my valve cover is about an inch TALLER. From the camshaft bolt to the radiator support is 16.25"
AAAARGHHHHH. I'm really hoping I don't have another cracked head, but its looking like that. I'm getting blue and white smoke. Here is a video of the exhaust, you can hear what it sounds like and see the smoking issue I'm dealing with. What a bummer.

smoking.mp4 - YouTube

Here is a quick drive by. When driving around it seems to NOT smoke all the time, just a little puff on decel.


http://youtu.be/txumDS2jP1w
when at its closest how much room do you have between the steering link and your starter?
im going with a ranger mini starter and i have about 1/2 inch maybe.
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That is an awesome project I also am doing something similar with a maverick. It looks like you have way more room than my car does, I could not fit it with the stock exhaust manifold, I will include some pics. I wanted to know if you had any more tips on these 2.3 engines like the IAT relocation, or what website/forum that has more info.

also willymakit100 mentioned a ranger mini starter, what years are they from, my starter rubs the center link at full lock.







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Wow thats awesome! I saw another Maverick on the net with the conversion, gold and black. Sweet cars.

I also have the mini starter, but I dont think they are specific to rangers. I'm sure a google search of ford mini starter would find it, PGR or something. They do give you a little more clearance, but not much. I also have about 1/2" between the starter and the steering link at full lock. I had to use a steering drop bracket to get it though, most guys use it to clear long tube headders.

Fuelish, it looks like you are still running the VAM, so you must be using the stock computer also. Not a bad way to go, I just don't know much about them. But, they guys over on TurboFord do, they have been an invaluable resource for me. They know everything about these little motors.

TurboFord.net
i agree. the mini starter helps but not much. i think they came on most of the 90's rangers.
im still playing with my mounts. i wound up raising my engine up a bit to get my clearance. judging by your crossbrace fuelish my engine is about the same height as yours in the front. its to bad there isnt a little longer idler arm that fits to push the drag link a little to the front of the car.
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here are some pictures of the new position everthing is in. i may rethink the crossmember. going by the instructions i found somewhere they said to drop a c6 crossmember 1.25 inches and a t5 will fit it. as you can see i had to spacer the trans mount to get it higher for the shifter to be through the floor. as it turns out i only needed about .25 inches drop.
i take it at this engine height that the hood clears? if you see anything that looks like im going down a rat hole let me know.

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It looks goot to me, I think you got it about 1" lower than I could. The only thing I would watch out for is your intake, I don't think mine would fit if I didn't rotate and angle it. Check out the slick one fuelish made, I would highly reccomend it if possible. Makes plumbing for a FMIC so much easier and neater looking.
I picked up this sweet shift knob from MGW, same people who make the short shifter.



I'm still having smoking issues. Signs are pointing toward the rings, which is a bummer as the whole bottom end is basically new.
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I took the car to the drag stip last Friday. It was my first time on a real strip, pretty exciting. The car did terrible. Lots of pinging at the top of third and fourth, plus it is still blowing a good bit of smoke, and making a funky noise that sounds like it's coming from the valve cover. I think it's injured. Ran a 15.998. But, it looked darn good in the lanes!







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Sunday was the big fathers day car show, that was fun. Lots of questions about the swap and sideways stares trying to figure out what they were looking at.







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This by far has been one of my favorite threads to follow! Nice work and love your car!
This by far has been one of my favorite threads to follow! Nice work and love your car!
Thanks! It's good to hear people dig it. I've been taking it to local get togethers and while most of the reviews are positive, I can tell some people either don't approve or understand.

I have a line on a new engine already. It has a much better head, cam and pistons than this one. Plus it comes with a turbo. I figure I could spend months hunting down my oil burning issue (its the head, turbo or rings) or just replace it all in one shot with known good parts.

My goal when I started was to make it to the Fathers Day show, which I did.

New goal: 300 hp to the rear wheels.

:pirate::pirate:
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my reply to the diehards who dissaprove is if ford had these engines in the 60's THEY would have put them in instead of the 200 i6.
well after a short break i removed the engine and sandblasted some more and did more floor patching. i think im finally done with the blasting and patching for now. i decided to turn my attention to the hydraulic clutch setup. i wanted to reuse as much as i could from the tbird so i layed out everything from both cars on the floor and went to blending them togethor. and here is what i came up with. i recreated the tbird mount angle and geometry.
it should be very close to the same as in the tbird. right now its just tack welded to be sure of the positioning. i might modify the firewall mounting plate with a top so i can seal it to the firewall. i used the hole for the original clutch rod.

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OK. its time for todays episode of sweat my a## off. today i tackled the fuel tank. i was torn between in tank and rail pump and decided on in tank for the baffling aspect. As i have everything from the tbird i again blended the two by removing the mustang tank top and welded the tbird baffle in and while i had the top off i flattened the area for the pump mount by heat shrinking it with a torch and hammer. the height turned out perfect as the pump sock just touches the floor of the baffle when installed. and the inlet/outlet is turned towards the front of the car. the only thing i have left is finishing welding the top back on and checking for leaks/rewelding/brazing until its fluid tight again.

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nicely done on the photos
Beau the ring problem could be attributed to the original owners problem with getting it started, if he was cranking it for a long time the fuel could have washed the cylinders of oil and burned up the new rings before they got a chance to seat.


willymakit100 here is a pic of how i did my clutch master mount, kind of similar to what you did, I just drilled a hole in the firewall and got the original mount from the t-bird trimmed it and welded it in

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Beau the ring problem could be attributed to the original owners problem with getting it started, if he was cranking it for a long time the fuel could have washed the cylinders of oil and burned up the new rings before they got a chance to seat.


Yeah, thats my fear. I ended up getting another engine that was built by a reputable guy in the turbo ford community. It has been broken in already. It came with a known good turbo also.

So, last night I took my turbo out an cleaned up the "new" one a bit. Tonight I will slap the new one in. If my smoking goes away, I will know it was the turbo, and I will have 2 awesome short blocks. If it still smokes bad, I will have to assume it's the rings. Then, its engine swap time.

Either way, the new engine wil go in by Xmas or so.
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