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I'm currently installing the Vintage Air system from NPD into a '66 fb. Fits like a glove, easy to install, everything in the kit. I also put one in a '40 Ford sedan a couple years ago. It gets so cold in there that he has to roll the window down a little bit not to freeze up!
 

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You are ill-informed. Should be 45F or lower on a properly working AC system. At 33F, I would be concerned about freezing up the evaporator, which reduces evaporator performance drastically, and can even cause compressor damage. Normally the T-stat or low pressure switch will prevent evaporator temperatures that low.

MrFreeze
Depends on the ambient temp when she stuck the thermometer in the vent. A ac system that blows 33 degrees on a 70 degree day certainly wont blow 33 degrees on a 100 degree day
 

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Hey Todd,

What did you end up with? BTW: I'm just down the road from you in Red Bluff.
That post was from June 2016, he never posted after that.
 

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If he's still lurking, or any others that are interested. Redding has lots of days over 100, same as where i live. I had dealer hung AC system with the car. I upgraded it to Classic Auto Air under hood kit which goes with a Sanden type compressor, new hoses, filter/dryer, and condenser as well as expansion valve at the evaporator. The conversion to R134a makes my condenser run much warmer than the old r12 did. That heat passes into my radiator and after 20-30 minutes of in town driving I end up running hot. The AC doesnt work as well then, engine doesnt run as well, transmission shifts differently. If i continue with the AC on, the temps get too high and ive got to get to highway speeds or turn AC off. This is with a "desert cool" 3 row radiator, 7 blade clutch fan with fan shroud. If i turn the AC off it never overheats and can idle all day long in 100 plus temps. Its crazy the heat load the AC puts on it. I just ordered a new aluminum radiator from wizard with 3" core thickness and 1.25" tubes. Hoping this will keep me cool inside and under the hood. If it doesnt then im going to put a Spal 16" brushless electric fan in place of the clutch fan.

Now if hes hanging a new AC system he also needs to think about brackets pulleys idlers etc. My compressor has a long span from crank and the belt vibrates there like a guitar string when the compressor is on and you can feel the vibration throughout the car. The idlers are very expensive if you dont have original cores to send in. 100 degree summers are great for swimming but not so good in a 50 year old semi daily driver.
 
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Perhaps another member can enlighten me on this, but I was under the impression that a good auto a/c system blows around 60*F air at the vents. Seems quite a spread here. Centigrade maybe Kelly? Or I'm ill-informed? 🤷
33 centigrade is over 90 degrees Fahrenheit....do you want an AC that blows 91 degree air in your face?
 

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Radar
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Had he but waited a mere 24 hours longer to make his first post here, he would've hit the five year anniversary of this thread right smack on the kisser. :)
 

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I added the Old Air underhood performance kit with a restored stock evaporator and stock heat.. Love it!
 

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1966 289 2V Coupe FMX Transmission 9-inch Axle
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60F average air temp inside the car would be doing real good. But you need about 45F off the registers to get there (and probably some well-tinted glass). Likewise, the 20-30F below ambient is referring to in-car average temp. 45F or lower is what you should get with a thermometer stuck inside the register.

I wouldn't kid you guys...I do this stuff for a living.

MrFreeze
He's right. Somewhere in the 40's using a thermometer stuck in the vents. Mine blows about 42 deg with outside temps in the 80's.
I installed an older Vintage Air unit in mine a year ago this past winter. My dad had bought all the parts and they sat around about 8 years in the unopened boxes. It replaces the existing heater box. Mine still used the cables as controls with micro switches. Now the controls hook to the existing controls but are completely electric. My kit blocked off the fresh air inlet over the standard heater box. So only fresh air comes from vent on drivers side when it is opened. So to get a clear windshield in the winter you have to have the a/c on with temp set to heat and a vent window opened.
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Since this thread has returned from the dead, this is what Ford had to say at the time: Section 16, page 18, Air Conditioner Performance Chart from the 1968 Mustang Shop Manual. The highlighted 60*F center duct air temp is shown at 60% humidity and at 80*F outside air temp. Both are near mid-range on the chart. As you can see, there was a wide 31 degree spread at 60% humidity depending on what the surrounding air temp was. The range was even greater at 70% humidity.
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