Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I’ve probably posted too many times recently but this community has been absolutely vital for a guy like me and has enabled me to do take on way more than I’d have ever dreamt possible in my 66 Vert partial restoration so truly appreciative.

per the attached images I have aggressively wire brushed the existing floorboards with a rotary grinder using the twisted wire style brushes and then treated all-remaining pitted areas with Blaster Metal Rescue from HD for 24 ours. This is an environmentally friendly non acid treatment which I have no experience with.

I generally need advice on next steps in terms of correct treatment and proper order before putting in sound insulation and carpet - self etching primer vs epoxy primer vs POR 15 / seam sealer, what order etc. also what is that extra hole for near each of the floor plugs. (Sorry for the dumb ass question). See images and thank you.

RudeMan
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,909 Posts
After cleaning in a different area (inside driver's cowl) I used Picklex 20 rust converter and then hand brushed with Mastercoat Siver Series. Fantastic stuff. They use it on bridges so that should tell you something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,077 Posts
Was it previously treated with POR15? Whatever the black is, is way to thick to be factory paint. I would use some type of acid treatment to kill any remaining rust before applying any primer or paint. Rust-Mort, Ospho, etc... Follow their directions then epoxy prime & paint.
 

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
5,061 Posts
You need phosphoric acid (milkstine remover at your local farm store is dirt cheap) them master series.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was it previously treated with POR15? Whatever the black is, is way to thick to be factory paint. I would use some type of acid treatment to kill any remaining rust before applying any primer or paint. Rust-Mort, Ospho, etc... Follow their directions then epoxy prime & paint.
Thanks. Yes, the existing black coating was put down after some previous patching and covered the entire floor from half way up the fire wall to under the rear seat. It pealed up pretty easily in the rusted areas shown in my images but seems to be covering clean metal everywhere else. My intention, all be it wrong, was to leave it and address only the low areas where it was bubbling or pealing. But I can brush it all away or minimally just do the four low quads. Thanks Jmlay for the direction
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,353 Posts
Get the Mastercoat products and follow their directions. They have everything you need and it will stop the rust better than anything else. Two of them are tested in this salt fog chamber test:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Rust mort has phosphoric acid in it. That's what I used. Most wholesale paint stores carry it. As someone else mentioned, read as directed. If you pack it on let it stand for a while then rinse or wipe off residue. Then prime and paint. You can also use the self etching primer then paint.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,102 Posts
Rust needs oxygen to spread. No oxygen, no rust. I don't drive my Mustang in the salt so I just brush on Rustoleum. It will certainly protect the Mustang for the rest of my days. My car gets wet maybe 6 times a year as do most cars on this forum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dennis111

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You bring up a great point Nailbender. I used to live in CT which equates to dirt and salt in the winter. But now I’m in coastal SC and have neither of these issues. And the only time I’ll drive in the rain is if I get caught in it. It can however get quite humid and damp down here in the summer with or without the rain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Get the Mastercoat products and follow their directions. They have everything you need and it will stop the rust better than anything else. Two of them are tested in this salt fog chamber test:
Thanks. Interesting vid. Sounds like the master coat rust sealer came out on top given his simulated environment. Although the MC inter panel didn’t do so well will check out MC. TX AGAIN
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,353 Posts
Thanks. Interesting vid. Sounds like the master coat rust sealer came out on top given his simulated environment. Although the MC inter panel didn’t do so well will check out MC. TX AGAIN
Use their "Metal Prep", then the silver "Permanant Rust Sealer", then their two part "AG111". Don't use the Slim, which is diluted for spraying. Kelly-H just did a thread on this and as usual did an outstanding job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
No matter what you do get down to bare metal as best you can. Dig out that black stuff still in the channels. Two thoughts on that area. First is to order Mastercoat silver and their metal prep. Sand it as much to bare metal as possible. You’ve used a wire wheel, so be sure to hit the area with a 80grit DA before final prep. Sanding gives much better tooth than wire brushing. Wipe with metal prep and soak the remaining rust. Follow the directions on the bottle closely. Brush/roll on Mastercoat 2-3 coats let dry and you are done. You could go with AG111 but that seems to be overkill for an area protected by carpet with zero UV exposure, no reason not to other than time and money though if you wanted to.

Another thought is to get it perfectly clean. Etch primer it and brush/roll on rustoleum. Nail bender is correct in that the area you are talking about will hardly get any exposure to the elements. The only time I see the top of the floor pan rusting out is intrusion from the bottom, letting the car sit forgotten outside, or if you get water intrusion from a leaky heater core or rusted out inner fenders/cowl.

The cost of Mastercoat is so cheap that its worth ordering that. You can a quart of silver and the metal prep to your door for around $75 shipped so why not go that route? You’ve probably spent half a day grinding so treat it right :)

When the time comes you can do the bottom of the car in mastercoat too and it will be sealed like a boat!

Be aware that mastercoat has practically no shelf life once opened. So have a few other areas/parts prepped to use it on if you have any left over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I used both SPI epoxy on outer body and KBS on the underside of the floor. The KBS was their red oxide.
Automotive lighting Amber Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
After cleaning in a different area (inside driver's cowl) I used Picklex 20 rust converter and then hand brushed with Mastercoat Siver Series. Fantastic stuff. They use it on bridges so that should tell you something.
You think pickelx 20 would make quick work of this?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,009 Posts
I sand blasted about a 14x16 patch under the driver's floor
I had the seats out and put a tarp over the shifter, dash and doors.

Just used plain old rustolium primer.

Car will never see the elements. So I guess it will be fine
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top