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I just hauled this ‘66 home today. Unfortunately at the moment I’m stuck working in gravels in a harbor freight carport. I will have partial use of a friends garage but can’t keep things tied up for bigger projects. The plus side is the car has good frame rails, floors replaced, etc. I do think there may be some minor patch work needed around the trunk floor and the toe boards(pictured). I also have to add subframe connectors and hopefully a Fays2 Watts link soon.

I’m going to try to eventually get every accessible piece of sheet metal stripped bare and I want to start coating it. I’m assuming I’m best starting with an epoxy primer. If so, what would be a good brand/source to go with? I’d like to do something like the lizard skin later. I just hate that I can’t get the car on a rotisserie and have everything stripped at once. For the time being it’s not in the cards given my storage problem. I’m going to try to block it up and remove the suspension and lines and make the best of it. Do you guys have any other suggestions or products to try? If I understand the epoxy primer works as a sealer too?
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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Take a look at Southern Polyurethane a.k.a. SPI products. They have epoxy primer in oxide red, black. grey and white. Their black dries to a semi-gloss, great for aprons, engine bay and underbody. It's very nice stuff if you follow their guidelines and procedures. Always best to read their tech sheets. Their products don't like etch primers or Ospho that is not properly neutralized.
 

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Not trying to be critical but are my eyes deceiving me or did someone just cut the old rusty sections of floors out and lay new floor pans over top the remaining metal and stitch weld them in? The passengers side inner seat belt mount looks to be a funeral in the making.
 
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Any quality epoxy primer would be fine. I like SPI. I've heard Kirker is also good. No need to top coat. I would not recommend putting bed liner or anything similar on the bottom of the car. You don't need it and will make working on the car difficult. If you ever sell it, potential buyers will wonder what the Lizard Skin is hiding. So put the lizard skin on the inside of the car.
 

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I'd do the Masterseries permanent rust sealer (I hate the name because it actually isn't supposed to go over rust) and then black epoxy or a black chassis paint on top of it. That's pretty much my go to for parts that will see high abuse, whether it's a chassis, a horse trailer, or a tractor.

It's a nice aluminum color (because the pigment is aluminum). My hood hinges, grille, and gas tank are sprayed with it with no top coat to give them an aluminum look. It's also what I used to attach all the pin-on emblems to the car. I also have used it as a seam sealer.
 

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Lizer, I'm assuming you've had good luck with the master series under epoxy? I did some research on it a number of years ago, but then decided to stay as far away as I could after the know-it-all Pete's Ponies started promoting it in these forums. While I dont think I ever interacted with him, pretty much everything that guy posted just rubbed me the wrong way.
 

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Lizer, I'm assuming you've had good luck with the master series under epoxy? I did some research on it a number of years ago, but then decided to stay as far away as I could after the know-it-all Pete's Ponies started promoting it in these forums. While I dont think I ever interacted with him, pretty much everything that guy posted just rubbed me the wrong way.
I agree whole heartedly. He was kind of a dolt.

Yes, I've had no issues with it under epoxy whatsoever. By issues I mean no failures or adhesion issues. I'm going on 5 years now. But I don't bring it up with Barry because he hates it, and I don't bring it up with Pat (at Mastercoat) because he hates epoxy and SPI. Yet I'm very good friends with both.

I did an entire horse trailer with it and then painted it with their AG2000 red. The AG2000 had a catastrophic failure which prompted them to stop selling it (he's actually a good friend of mine). The painted faded very quickly and in some cases, the pigment completely disappeared so all you could see beneath it was the silver primer. I've never seen that before with a single stage paint. While the paint failed, the primer has held fast, and that was about 5 years ago as well.

When I repainted my tractor, all my panels were primed with silver first and then I used a cheap Majik tractor enamel over that, with a Mastercoat AG2000 clear I had laying around. Tractor was painted about 3 years ago. That has remained solid.

When I had to replace my truck tailgate, I also sprayed the lower half with silver, then SPI epoxy (which is my go to).

The trunk of my mustang and rocker panels are also done in the same fashion.

I've done a lot of things with it with no failures, is what I'm trying to say. Some of the applications (like a horse trailer, truck tailgate, and tractor) see heavy abuse.
 

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2 quarts of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum

Can be rolled on with a small roller and chased with a brush

Dries down nice and does not need/get a top coat






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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