Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Need some advice. Got my old 289 3spd out this weekend and was checking out my rear end while I was under there. It's the original 8". See the specs on my new drivetrain in my sig. I'd like to upgrade to a posi 3.25 or 3.50, and I'm trying keep the price reasonable. Also, I'm not sure I'm up for rebuilding myself. Tools and skill are both lacking, I think.

I'm OK with sticking with the 8" (assuming I can use my current housing/axles?), so I'm wondering what others opinions are on the least expensive way to get this done. I don't think the 8.8 upgrade is right for me at this point either, again skill is lacking. I'm seeing some flea-bay rear end rebuilds for $600 to $650 plus shipping. Or I can have one rebuilt by a local shop (not even sure what kind of shop-transmission?)? I'm still new at this, but now that I have my engine/trans figured out, I'm moving down the list. Thanks for any help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,138 Posts
Careful getting rearend work done. I went to a local "highly recommended" speed shop that specalizes in newer Mustangs to get gears put in my '95. It was a good drive out to the guys shop, and he failed twice to make them quiet and refuses to call me back. When I saw he shows up to work at noon, I should have left. It was obvious he does not take his profession serious if his business hours are noon to 8.
Pay the price for a reputable builder that can get it done right the first time.
Currie use to do 8" center sections. Won't be cheap, but will be done once, and done right. I'd just get a complete center section and swap that out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
With the final goal being a mild 289 on street tires rebuilding the 8 inch with posi and gears is probably best. You can pull the differential, drop it off for work, reinstall it, all fast and easy. Probably cheapest as well.

The 8.8 involves a lot more work. However if your final goal is a hot 289 or stroker 302 and disc brakes, then the 8.8 might be better, and cheaper in the long run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
827 Posts
Check out swap meets. We just came back from a swap meet in Turlock, CA. There were several options there from local Mustang shops for good (cheap) prices. That brings to mind, call some Mustang shops in your area to see what they have sitting around. The ones in Turlock were in the 175-250 range depending on ratio and open vs. traction-lock.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
217 Posts
I just had my 8" rebuilt with a rebuilt factory posi. Cost me about $1000. I then paid another $600 for a rear end disc brake kit. If I had to do it all over again, I would get a Ford Explorer rear end and take it to a fabricator to have the spring perches welded on. The explorers already came with factory discs and 3.73 posi. You can get one on craigslist for $300-600.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
.060 over 289~! Better save your money for an engine, those cylinder will be out of round. It might go 40k if you're lucky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. On the explorer, it just seems like I'm gonna keep adding the $$'s, though. No current plans to upgrade to disc (will do front first, if anything). I've got a set of 14" Crager SS's that look sharp and hate to spend the $$ on 15-16" rims to accomodate the discs. Unless that swap can be done with the stock axles?

Unfortunately, there's only one local Mustang shop in Memphis. I'll give him a call.

By the way, there's somebody in AZ selling the full center with trac-loc (yoke included) rebuilt for $650. Knowing the "you get what you pay for" way of life, has anybody done anything like this that could give me an opinion? Not usually big on e-bay, but have good luck with CL. Not a lot of options locally, at least that I'm aware of. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
.060 over 289~! Better save your money for an engine, those cylinder will be out of round. It might go 40k if you're lucky.
That decision is made. I'll live with it one way or another. How bout a little rear end advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
I went for a stronger casting rebuilt 8" pumpkin with 3:55 a posi - all new internals - paid $600 - slapped it in with the Ford clutch oil (small bottle forgetting the name of it) and called it a day. broke it in with a few left and right turns - No issues whats so ever - maybe I got lucky with it. Cheap and happy performance in my book!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
I went for a stronger casting rebuilt 8" pumpkin with 3:55 a posi - all new internals - paid $600 - slapped it in with the Ford clutch oil (small bottle forgetting the name of it) and called it a day. broke it in with a few left and right turns - No issues whats so ever - maybe I got lucky with it. Cheap and happy performance in my book!

Did you get it from a commercial vendor? Care to share a name? That will be my next upgrade, shortly. I've looked a MAE racing on ebay, but need a little more info.
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
20,659 Posts
I would see about having it built locally. You could pull the center section yourself and drop it off. The trick is finding somebody good to do it. I would start by asking around transmission shops. In person seems to work best. If they do rear end work, fine, get an estimate. But what you really want is a shop that doesn't do rear end work so you can ask "Who do you send your stuff to?" Even in larger cities, shops tend to know each other. Odds are good that some mechanic's at Joe's used to work at Fred's, and etc. "This guy fixed my car once" isn't nearly as good a reference as "We send our stuff to him all the time."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,749 Posts
Look around for one of the Mustang II V6 3.40 8" hogsheads.
They have the stronger case also
There is nothing wrong with the 8" behind a 289.
I wouldn't even worry about posi at this moment.
Work on making the car enjoyable to drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
I just had my 8" rebuilt with a rebuilt factory posi. Cost me about $1000. I then paid another $600 for a rear end disc brake kit. If I had to do it all over again, I would get a Ford Explorer rear end and take it to a fabricator to have the spring perches welded on. The explorers already came with factory discs and 3.73 posi. You can get one on craigslist for $300-600.

What year explorer fitting into what year stang?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Did you get it from a commercial vendor? Care to share a name? That will be my next upgrade, shortly. I've looked a MAE racing on ebay, but need a little more info.
Yes no problem, R mustangs in SF, ca. is a local guy who builds them. He use to sell on ebay and use to stock them in his shop for customers. He told me he builds them per order now, but you might want to contact him regarding shipping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Gear noise is often times the fault of the gear vendor over installation. Sure if it clunks then its got to much back lash, but some of the aftermarket gears simply need to "wear in" before the whine goes away. Ford gears are your best bet for "noise". Even a nice set of used gears might solve the problem if noise is issue under steady load.

I have no clue who your builder is above and he might be a smuck, but if he's able to do rear ends 8 hours a day then I'd think he should be able to master it. It's just not that hard if you can read a torque wrench inch&lb and a dial indicator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Gear noise is often times the fault of the gear vendor over installation. Sure if it clunks then its got to much back lash, but some of the aftermarket gears simply need to "wear in" before the whine goes away. Ford gears are your best bet for "noise". Even a nice set of used gears might solve the problem if noise is issue under steady load.

I have no clue who your builder is above and he might be a smuck, but if he's able to do rear ends 8 hours a day then I'd think he should be able to master it. It's just not that hard if you can read a torque wrench inch&lb and a dial indicator.
Of course you have no clue who he is...your location is far from here. I said he was a local guy - and what's with smuck comment? Do some research before you start name calling and assuming faulty rear ends - nowhere in this thread talks about noisy gears...all "Hwyman" wanted was some info on who the builder was - I'm just trying to help out folks here.

Well then ...Why don't you break out the torque wrench inch&lb and a dial indicator - and help Steve out then?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
Yes no problem, R mustangs in SF, ca. is a local guy who builds them. He use to sell on ebay and use to stock them in his shop for customers. He told me he builds them per order now, but you might want to contact him regarding shipping.

thanks, 65FSTBK, almost local. It's so hard finding people to trust to do it right (especially over the internet). If someone has a good experience, I like to keep track of the name in case I need that part later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
827 Posts
Hwyman, or anyone else looking for a great gear shop, Pete's Gear Shop in Hayward,CA. He has done a lot of rear ends, and not 1 complaint as far as I know. Everyone around here goes there. The phone number is (510) 537-9446 and they are located at 21065 Foothill Blvd, Hayward ,CA. If the guy that answers the phone has an Aussie accent, thats Pete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
827 Posts
Another option is buying one outright from Mustangs Plus. An 8" center section with a 4 spider limited slip 28 spline and 1310 U-joints are between $1034 and $1054. Your choices of ratios are 3.00, 3.25, 3.55, and 4.11. These ship UPS and there is a $45 refundable upon return crate charge. It might be a bit out of your budget but it is from a good company that stands behind what they sell. Great guys to do business with! 1-800-999-4289.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top