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Any suggestions? I’m thinking to first hit them with PB Blaster, let it sit, then warm them up with a torch before trying to remove them. Any other suggestions? Anyone who has had to dig out broken bolts can sympathize with me, I’m sure.
 

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1st off, heating the bolts will make them twist off easier- you typically heat up the surrounding material to 'expand it' and release tension on the bolt. Soaking them for a few days prior can't hurt, but ultimately they'll either come out, or snap off. All you can do is try. I like to start out with hand tools and a breaker bar rather than just hitting them with an impact. Once they start to turn, if they get hard, reverse direction and squirt with juice, then go back to removing them. This will help get the threads oiled and hopefully keep the bolt from seizing and breaking off on you.
 

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One of the old-timer tricks is to use a candle. Heat up the bolt and area close by as hot as you can get it. Then press the end of a candle as close to the bolt threads as you can get. After it cools down a little try turning it with a wrench (both loosen and tighten). Repeat the heating and candle process a few times if necessary. The wax seems to wick down into the threads (sometimes better than penetrating oil). Good luck.
 

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The nice thing about stock Ford log manifolds is that the bolts are short. Grab yourself a torch, preferably oxy-acetylene but MAPP might do... LP definitely will NOT, and heat the bolt head CHERRY RED, then either let it cool or hit it with an ice cube or water. Repeat that two more times and the last time let it cool naturally, but squirt some LIQUID WRENCH under the head and between the manifold and head (so it gets to the threads), then immediately put a 6-point socket on a ratchet and loosen ONE FLAT of the bolt head, then apply more LIQUID WRENCH and TIGHTEN one flat. Apply more LIQUID WRENCH then loose TWO flats, apply more LIQUID WRENCH then tighten ONE flat. Continue to apply LIQUID WRENCH as necessary and loosen TWO flats and tighten ONE flat until it works easily, then remove the bolt.

Note that I typed Liquid Wrench in ALL CAPS. Independent testing shows that Liquid Wrench was only bested by Aero Kroil (and 50/50 Acetone/ATF) for it's penetrating properties....by all means use Aero Kroil if you have (and can afford) it. LOL. If you don't feel the bolt break free after the initial loosen one flat-tighten one flat, repeat the heating process one more time.

NOTE: For similar instances where you can clearly SEE the bolt threads, you can also heat the bolt cherry red and apply paraffinic wax (crayons, Vaseline) to the threads and using heat allow it to be wicked up into the bolt hole.
 

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I had one that I could not get out also, so I brought it into the plant where I work (Dearborn Truck aka the Rouge Plant) and asked a welder if he could heat it with a torch. He did and then showed me the tradesmen trick for stubborn rusted bolts that is similar to using the candle wax mentioned above but he used BEE's WAX instead. The bolt spun right out,
 

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Get a can of CRC Freeze Off. It works wonders. After Spraying the bolt head (a lot) hit it square on with a 4 lb mini sledge hammer a few wacks.

the stuff is also FANTASTIC for freeing brake rotors that have frozen to the wheel studs (modern cars).

Z
 

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Since the manifolds are still on the car nothing is getting to the threads that will help you in any meaningful way. Leave the oils and wax alone. Heating them might help but the amount of heat you'll need to put in it (the manifold is going to pull heat out of the bolt as you heat it) would make the process questionable at best. Your best bet, get a ratchet and hope. Honestly, as long as they're stock bolts I've never had one break in a ford.
 

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Many times they do come right out. Use a 6 point socket and slowly work it back and forth. Patience, patience, patience. Once you have a gap, hose it with the penetrating oil of choice. Tighten, loosen, tighten loosen. If it stops, using and Oxy-Acetylene torch, heat the bolt to cherry red and let it cool to a dull red and repeat. Once they come out, toss in the nearest trash can as they are now junk.
 

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The nice thing about stock Ford log manifolds is that the bolts are short. Grab yourself a torch, preferably oxy-acetylene but MAPP might do... LP definitely will NOT, and heat the bolt head CHERRY RED, then either let it cool or hit it with an ice cube or water. Repeat that two more times and the last time let it cool naturally, but squirt some LIQUID WRENCH under the head and between the manifold and head (so it gets to the threads), then immediately put a 6-point socket on a ratchet and loosen ONE FLAT of the bolt head, then apply more LIQUID WRENCH and TIGHTEN one flat. Apply more LIQUID WRENCH then loose TWO flats, apply more LIQUID WRENCH then tighten ONE flat. Continue to apply LIQUID WRENCH as necessary and loosen TWO flats and tighten ONE flat until it works easily, then remove the bolt.

Note that I typed Liquid Wrench in ALL CAPS. Independent testing shows that Liquid Wrench was only bested by Aero Kroil (and 50/50 Acetone/ATF) for it's penetrating properties....by all means use Aero Kroil if you have (and can afford) it. LOL. If you don't feel the bolt break free after the initial loosen one flat-tighten one flat, repeat the heating process one more time.

NOTE: For similar instances where you can clearly SEE the bolt threads, you can also heat the bolt cherry red and apply paraffinic wax (crayons, Vaseline) to the threads and using heat allow it to be wicked up into the bolt hole.
Interesting, I saw where Liquid Wrench beat Kroil. Totally agree that Liquid Wrench is the product to buy.

I have always heated the nut or cast piece and NOT the bolt or stud with the theory of expanding the hole, not the item in the hole...
 

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Interesting, I saw where Liquid Wrench beat Kroil. Totally agree that Liquid Wrench is the product to buy.

I have always heated the nut or cast piece and NOT the bolt or stud with the theory of expanding the hole, not the item in the hole...
Ah, yes. Kroil - yes, AERO Kroil, not quite. I'm surprised Liquid Wrench doesn't market it better.... lots of folks swear by piss like PB Blaster who figure LW is some hardware store glorified 3-in-one oil. LOL.

Hard to heat the head around the bolt while shrouded by the manifolds. The repeat heating/cooling cycle is to expand and contract the bolt to break the corrosion bond between the 2 surfaces.
 

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Get a can of CRC Freeze Off. It works wonders. After Spraying the bolt head (a lot) hit it square on with a 4 lb mini sledge hammer a few wacks.

the stuff is also FANTASTIC for freeing brake rotors that have frozen to the wheel studs (modern cars).

Z
Kroil is an outstanding penetrant too.. I wont even bother having a can of PB blaster at my house. I find it worthless.

Edit: I see we've already covered Kroil. Where I work we have Kroil in 55gal drums and I just fill a spray bottle when I need some. I think its better than liquid wrench
 

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To clarify, the CRC Freeze Off doesn’t work like a penetrant. If super-cools the bolt and frees up the bolt threads grip by the cooling action.

it does the same thing on any parts that aren’t bolted together, but are held by corrosion between two sepaoparts like the brake rotors I mentioned earlier.

To no avail I’ve beaten on many brake rotors that were held on just by the corrosion between the rotor and the wheel stud. But after a few sprays of Freeze Off the rotors literally just fell off.

Z
 

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Kroil beats PB Blaster for sure. I'll have to try Liquid Wrench based on comments here. Regarding heat; I agree it is best to heat the surrounding area and not the bolt so as to try to get the hole to expand and break the bond. When you can't do that I have found the heat with MAPP or Oxy cherry red will accomplish the same thing. I also like Freeze-Off to cool it down quickly and hopefully get some shrinkage :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I think my plan going forward is to hit with Liquid Wrench, let it sit for 5 minutes, hit with Freeze Off, wait 5 minutes, heat with oxy torch, then try to get it off with ratchet/breaker bar.
 

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I had an old-timer tell me this years ago, but I've never tried it. Nothing has an affinity for rust like water. Nothing penetrates rust like water. He said they would pour boiling water on rusted bolts. He said it works great. Sometimes you can even hear a popping sound as the chemical bonds break apart from the boiling water penetrating into the threads. One day I want to try this.
 

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to add on to what others have suggested on rusty bolts, I always tap the end of the bolt head with a hammer first before trying to loosen them. Using a hand held impact driver(the type you hit with a hammer - not the air or electric type) sometimes works as well. Once initially broken loose, lots of patience and back and forth tighten/loosen process.
 
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