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Stock springs are on my '69 convertible. I would like to remove them. I have soaked...the bolts in PB Blaster for a few weeks...and I have to do it again. But...I can't get a socket up against the outer bolt...and I wasn't able to get enough leverage out of the crescent wrench I have, so I purchased a the longest box wrench I could find in 3/4" size.
I have to try this tomorrow...any one have any ideas ( I don't have access to any air tools otherwise that would probably do the trick...if you can find a socket small enough to clear the rockers and frame rails.) Does anyone have a good idea as to removal methods? Thnx
 
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I sent you an email with an excellent trick here using some bolts and long threaded nuts. I would post it but not sure how to do that yet....
 
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Most old bolts, even soaked are still fairly frozen. A torch is the easiest but usually a hammer works fine. Put your wrench on the nut and put pressure by pushing midpoint in the wrench with your hand. Then start hitting the end of the wrench with light hammer blows increasing in strength until the nut moves enough to be able to turn it by hand with the wrench.
 

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Be aware that you may have more than just a frozen bolt there. On my '68,
not only was the nut frozen to the bolt, but the bolt was rusted solid inside
the bushing sleeve. So even after cutting off the nut end with a sawzall,
the bolt still wouldn't come out of the bushing.

Final result - I ended up cutting the spring up into pieces with a 4.5"
grinder and cutoff wheel, and then slicing through the spring eye. I
was left with the rubber bushing and was able to slice that up with
a razor to free the bolt.

Good luck - it's one of the nastiest disassembly jobs there is on
an old car...
 

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Great advice sshough. That is probably the best option especially if one can get the box end over the nut instead of the open end. That way the hammer blows don't tend to round off the nuts.

I just wanted to say I really like your car sshough. When I first saw it in the sig pic, I thought that is how I want my 65 coupe several years from now. Beautiful ride you have. I especially like the slotted mags. I'm still looking for a set. If you have more pics, please post them or email them to me. My address is at my user info page. I'd really like to know more about your nice project.
 

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Air tools probably wouldn't be much more help. They really don't seem to provide a lot of torque, usually no where near the torque you can produce yourself.
 

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I like using dynamite, but I usually overdo it and use a full stick. A quarter stick should be plenty to release the bolts. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 

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Use a carbide grit blade and just cut through the eye bolt. If you are lucky you'll be able to push it out, if not cut through the orther side and the whole assembly will fall out.

I did this last month, I tried all sorts of methods to get the nut off. In the end it wouldn't have done any good at all because the eye bolt had become one with the bushing (rusted together) so there was no way to get it out even if the nut had come off.

Just get the good blades and it is 15 minutes or so of cutting per bolt (two cuts if you are lucky, four if you are not).

Also for the shackles you can just use a torch to cut through the middle and then you'll have lots of room to attempt to get those bolts off. Also if you use a torch to cut through the front of the spring close to the "eye" you'll have lots of room to work on that side as well. I would recommend that you just cut these bolts as well (only two cuts needed here because the whole bushing must be removed and it doesn't sieze up the same as the front does).

John Harvey
 

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i tried dbventures(?) suggested approach and all i did was start bending frame rail or whatever it was up against but it is worth trying before you get out Sawzall. i tried air hammer/chishel, impact wrench, and finally went to Sawzall - get only tungsten blades since bi-metal don't work. not only does the sleeve rust/weld to bolt but also to rubber bushing. anything you do to turm bolt like with impact wrench merely ecercises the rubber - then its Sawzall time wahich takes about 15 min per bolt. i also had axlle/diff out which is a lot easier for ooperating room.
 

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Sawzall.....Tunsten blades......nothing but the bottom of the net...
 
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