So I'm trying to bleed my brakes after replacing my master cylinder. I got a 65 6 cylinder with four wheel drums. I've gone around the car 5 times trying to get the brakes bled. I'm doing it with my wife doing the press, open, close, release method and got out all the big bubbles I could see, still the pedal goes to the floor with minimal resistance. The last time I fashioned up a hose and bottle that could be held above the wheel cylinder and did the press and release and still not see anymore air being released. I know this is a very common problem with our cars but come on....
This is actually the second M/C I've tried. The first I could not get any resistance in the pedal and when observing the fluid in the M/C I could not see any fluid jetting from the ports at the problem. I assumed it was bad right out of the box. The current M/C does show fluid movement when pressing the pedal but never gets to a hard pedal.
It's a dual bowl so at this point I would think I have at least one of the circuits would be bled out and I should have some pedal hardness. But the pedal still goes to the floor with minimal resistance..
Yes, both M/Cs were bench bled before installation and I have been very careful about watching the fluid in the M/C to prevent drawing it all out. I am so frustrated with this. I also just completed a suspension refresh with the Arning drop and I so want to get behind the wheel a drive this thing. Could this master be bad?
The Ford Manual procedure depends on the perfect function of the self-adjusters to do the work for you. Now go back and do it the way my Grandad taught me. That method works perfectly even if your self-adjusters are not working, or if you have an older car that didn't have them at all.
I guess if you wanted to check if it was your drum adjustment vs. some other problem in the system, you could adjust all your drums TIGHT (so the wheels won't turn) and then see if your pedal response is any better. I'd guess that it'll still have the same problem based on what you've said in other posts, but that would be a good way to eliminate drum adjustment as a problem, even if it would be a PITA.
Wow, I'm overwhelmed by all the replies and help. Unfortunately I probably won't get to very much this weekend, we have the house up for sale and I got a long honeydew list. But there are a lot of good suggestions and failure is not an option.
I agree with @GT289 I never bench bleed either. I fill with fluid after it's in the car. To bleed, I pump the brakes a couple times. I don't know if it does anything or not. Then I have a piece of 2x4 that I put between the pedal and front seat after I have pushed the pedal down. Then I crack the flare nuts . Once the bubbles are gone, I'm done. I do the same for the calipers or drums if I have to bleed them. Works great for me. I don't need a second person.
I got out there this weekend and started working through your suggestions and I am delighted to report that the problem has been resolved.
I ordered the braided lines that Kelly suggested, it seemed that it could be the solution to my problem or a good upgrade at the very least. This weekend with the new lines in hand I figured I had nothing to lose by pinching off the individual hoses one by one and checking pedal feel. The first hose I pinched was the front left, immediately the pedal got hard. Pinching the other two lines in sequence or any combination either had no effect or only improved pedal fell when the front left was closed. I replaced my old lines with the braided steel lines bled out all the bubbles and still no pedal feel. Honestly when I said I had adjusted the brakes according to the Shop Manual I had only done the rears when I recently replaced a wheel cylinder and cleaned, lubed and adjusted the E brakes. The fronts were completely refreshed years ago and I assumed everything in there was OK. They were not OK.
When I opened up the front left cylinder the entire adjustment mechanism dropped out on the ground. I popped it back in and adjusted it out far enough for the shoes to drag a little when spinning the drum. Before I buttoned up this side I noticed that one of the rubber boots was not secured on the wheel cylinder, the piston was in place and it wasn't wet with brake fluid inside the brake assembly so I just popped it back on.
The right front was also lacking any adjustment but all the parts were in place so I just had a lot of adjustment to make.
As soon as I sat in the seat and pushed the pedal I could feel the improvement. The pedal went down about 1 and 1/2 inches and then it was like it hit something hard. It hasn't felt this solid since I started the restoration eight years ago. I am over the moon pleased with how it feels now. The first time out they pulled pretty hard to the left but after a few miles I can barely feel it.
After the Arning drop and the suspension refresh it's like driving a different car, I couldn't be happier.
I want to thank everyone that took the time to offer suggestions, I listened to all of them and was fully ready to to try each and every one to them to get this problem fixed. But in the end it was probably my own fault for being so sure of myself that I just didn't do my due diligence by checking my own work.
You guys and gals are the best. Gonna go for another drive.
Glad to hear that you got it sorted out! And hey, now you have some fancy new flex lines that will never go bad on you, so you can eliminate those as a problem down the line.
Enjoy the rest of your summer driving!
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