Hmm, are you noticing the fluid level going down at all when you just leave the car sitting for a couple of days? I would be really surprised if you had two bad master cylinders in a row, though it is possible. I would be giving the flex lines the hairy eyeball for sure, especially if your fluid level is not going down. Hard lines are not prone to suddenly weeping, usually they are either fine or they leak like hell. Beyond that, checking the wheel cylinders for leaks might be something to check off the list, just in case you haven't already.Kelly, I replaced the entire brake system about 7 years ago and at that time I converted to a dual bowl mc. The pedal always felt a little spongy but it would stop the car and not go to the floor if I stomped on it. This Spring as I was test driving some new upgrades the brake pedal went to the floor with no resistance and no amount of pumping would get it back. I got a replacement but couldn't get any pedal with it and I could not see any fluid squirting from the ports at the bottom when observing the the mc bowls so I gave up on it. Maybe I gave up too soon but I still have it so it could go back in. The current mc is made by Centrex.
When I refurbished the brakes years ago I got new SS lines, wheel cylinders, mc, hoses and the rest. Everything was purchased out of catalog chosen for price, fit and expediency. The suggestion that my hoses may be the problem resonates for me as I'm sure they are a cheap quality. I just did a little search for braided SS hoses and see bewildering amount of choices, can anyone point me towards something that would work for my original configured system.
Thanks everyone who has taken time to offer help and suggestions.
What about the distribution block? Can you take some photos of your setup so we can see how things are routed? Maybe something will flag someone.
As far as braided SS lines go - these ones by Russell are listed as being compatible with drum brakes: BRAKE LINE KIT, BRAIDED STAINLESS - #2078-10 - National Parts Depot
A nice benefit of the braided SS lines is that they are made with a PTFE inner liner, which will never wear out - so they should be good for life or until you destroy one by crushing it somehow or something.
If you really want to eliminate parts of the braking system, piece by piece, you could get some steel plugs and first plug the ports in the MC. If your pedal is hard with the ports plugged, the MC is not the problem. Then move downstream and plug the outgoing ports in the distributor block and repeat test. If it passes, then you know that the problem resides within one of the brakes. You can pinch off the flex line for each front brake with a pair of vice grips to test each of the front brakes. Same with the rear flex line going from the body to the axle (though you can't test the rear brakes individually). If blocking flow to any of these brakes causes your pedal to get a lot better, then you've found the culprit.
Post-pandemic, please let me know if you still need help and I would be happy to assist. At least another set of younger eyes might be helpful!Feeling your pain. I’ve been fussing with poor pedal feel for months now. AT LEAST 1 1/2 gallons of fluid and I still can’t get it right. I try something and go through the entire bleed process and find no improvement It is frustrating but lucky for me I can just walk away from it for a few days at a time. At my age with poor close up vision and hands that hurt all the time just adds to it. My latest thought is that the car needs to sit more level. I’ve had it on jack stands so that I can easily get u see it, maybe being level will let some trapped air out.
Like I said feeling your pain. Drive on!