[Guest]

there are a few spots where sheetmetal was riveted on top of the exsisting sheet metal and the entire area was bondoed up to make it blend in. how should i fix this. should i leave the riveted metal there and redo the filler. also this seems to be the cas for dents as well. a huge area was bondoed up to cover a few dents. it was up to 1/2 inch, maybe more. i was under the asumption that the least amount of filler used is best. im about to go start filling in the minor dings and what not, just taking a little breather. its my day off and all i do is work on my car!!! oh well.

 

[66emberglow]

That's what days off are for.

It's true that filler should be applied very thin. If you really want to put the effort out, you should remove all the bondo, get behind the dent and push/pull it out. Work the dents out as best you can with hammer and dolly. Then put a thin layer of polyester filler to finish it. I would not put new metal over rusty metal. That's just asking for rust to form between the two. Remove all the rust by cutting it out. Then weld new patch panels in place. Most of the common rust areas can be replaced with preformed patch panels available from any vendor.


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[motorhead]

I personally hate body filler. If you can afford to replace the body panels do it. My body filler of choice is lead but i only use it outdoors. I'm assuming with the metal riveted over metal that there is metal rusted off underneath. For rustouts you need to use a rust neutraliser in the prep process, years ago i used duro extend, not sure it still the best. If you don't the odds are 90% that in a year the rust will start to weep back through the repaired areas. The dented areas are much simpler, pull them out as best you can, fill, prime, paint. For areas i couldn't get to easy to push (like a door) out my favorite trick was to put a basketball in there and pump it up to push out the dent.

Motor