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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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Possibly...but its also transferring less overall load than it was before the stiffening. On this subject, here's an old Stangnet thread that is always worth a read for those interested in this type of thing...One thing to note...the rear seat divider did have a huge impact in this test(relative to other modifications at least):

Thanks for the link...I've seen it before, but it's been a while so I look forward to reading it again!
 

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If you ask me....

a. Unless you WELD something in that space it'll be a worthless as teats on a bull.
b. If you weld a flat sheet of steel in that space it'll be ALMOST as worthless as teats on a bull.
c. Remember that you still need to access your upper shock mounts.
d. I like the RX8 reinforcements. I think a couple piece of "hat" channel welded to flanges at each end would work well.
e. For fuel tank protection I'd go with "Tank Armor".
 

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1966 mustang convertible sprint 200, manual steering and brakes
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
😂
 

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If you ask me....

a. Unless you WELD something in that space it'll be a worthless as teats on a bull.
b. If you weld a flat sheet of steel in that space it'll be ALMOST as worthless as teats on a bull.
c. Remember that you still need to access your upper shock mounts.
d. I like the RX8 reinforcements. I think a couple piece of "hat" channel welded to flanges at each end would work well.
e. For fuel tank protection I'd go with "Tank Armor".
“I have nipples Greg, can you milk me?”




Sent from the interwebs... where else?
 

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1966 mustang convertible sprint 200, manual steering and brakes
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Classic line.
 
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I saw a bunch of S550's at a car show today that had the x-brace and rear seat delete.

Pretty clean looking and maybe something like this for people who don't want a rear seat.

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I saw a bunch of S550's at a car show today that had the x-brace and rear seat delete.

Pretty clean looking and maybe something like this for people who don't want a rear seat.

View attachment 811361
I always laugh at rear seat deletes in a coupe...because it still looks like you have a rear seat, just one without any upholstery, so why would you do a delete? Makes your car less functional for no reason. You can only get away with it looking good in a fastback.
 

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I bought the panel from NPD but I trimmed mine to fit inside the step down in the opening. I'm trying to find some one local who can roll a few beads in the panel for me.

For me I felt is was better to have it than not have it and besides I added the front torque boxes, convertible seat pans inside and underneath, convertible inner rockers as well to my coupe. I also made the Daze frame connecters and added two 1/2 inserts at each end of the frame connectors. My plan was to build a bolt in X brace but went with the convertible parts instead. I still may build the rear brace like the TCP one for convertibles. Maybe I will use the front inserts to build a safety drive shaft loop.
 

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I always laugh at rear seat deletes in a coupe...because it still looks like you have a rear seat, just one without any upholstery, so why would you do a delete? Makes your car less functional for no reason. You can only get away with it looking good in a fastback.
It's like the ricer wing, makes them feel like they have a race car.

I can't remember when someone sat in the back seat of one of my Mustangs. I'm going to guess it's been over 25 years.
 
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I bought the panel from NPD but I trimmed mine to fit inside the step down in the opening. I'm trying to find some one local who can roll a few beads in the panel for me.

For me I felt is was better to have it than not have it and besides I added the front torque boxes, convertible seat pans inside and underneath, convertible inner rockers as well to my coupe. I also made the Daze frame connecters and added two 1/2 inserts at each end of the frame connectors. My plan was to build a bolt in X brace but went with the convertible parts instead. I still may build the rear brace like the TCP one for convertibles. Maybe I will use the front inserts to build a safety drive shaft loop.
I would just buy the bead roller, likely wont be much more expensive than paying someone. An 8" isn't too expensive and will likely give you enough reach:


X-brace do nothing at all, read back to that link I posted on torsional rigidity test...every single time he tested the x-brace he got no measurable result. To me that means its not worth the weight. you would expect no result from SFCs since that is a beam-strength upgrade...but an X-brace should be torsional and he got no result.
 
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1966 Coupe
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Try some 16 ga. It won't flex and I don't think the sound would be an issue. If it were, you could apply some type of insulation material on the trunk side. Make a cardboard template to mark the 16 ga with then a plasma cutter to cut it out with, because you can't do squat to it with hand snips.
I´m thinking the same as you Wayne and am in the process of building one in right now. Only difference is I went with 18 guage sheet, which I reckon once welded in will be plenty rigid enough. I´m planning on putting Dynamat extreme on the trunk side areas that remain exposed and the Dynamat half inch foam on the seat side. I am hopeful that will give a good result.

As for the plasma cutter.......wish I had one of them, had to settle for the angle grinder, but that was fine.

cheers, hugh
 

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Some spray on rubberized undercoating on the back would probably take care of any noise, besides the seat back should deaden any sound quite a bit as well.
 

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1966 Coupe
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Some spray on rubberized undercoating on the back would probably take care of any noise, besides the seat back should deaden any sound quite a bit as well.
Yeah that would be another option. I´m using the Eastwood version of that rubberised paint underneath the car and just did the underside of one of the front fenders with it as well. I like it but am inclined to think the eighth inch thickness of the Dynamat Extreme will probably have a greater sound deadening effect for the panel behind the seat. And I have some on hand as I´m doing the interior with it.

And as you say, the seat back probably helps considerably as well.
 

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I can see doing a hardtop rear seat delete on a touring car designed to be driven long distances with just a passenger and having more luggage room. I have seen a pic or two of hardtops with a late model front AND rear seat that folds down with pass through / long cargo access. Not altogether a bad idea.
 

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If you ask me....

a. Unless you WELD something in that space it'll be a worthless as teats on a bull.
b. If you weld a flat sheet of steel in that space it'll be ALMOST as worthless as teats on a bull.
c. Remember that you still need to access your upper shock mounts.
d. I like the RX8 reinforcements. I think a couple piece of "hat" channel welded to flanges at each end would work well.
e. For fuel tank protection I'd go with "Tank Armor".
I have a 66 Fastback so don't need a divider plate but did install a 1/8" steel plate over the tank. Gained some protection and a nice flat floor. I have a in tank fuel pump so added an access door .
 

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c. Remember that you still need to access your upper shock mounts.
Bart , I don`t happen to believe that is entirely true , it may make it easier BUT I changed out my shocks awhile back from the trunk side and never even thought to pull the seat.
Also hard to retrieve your keys or pop the trunk with that panel in place.
 

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If I remember correctly the tank would rupture from a substantial rear collision fuel would ramp over the rear-end hump the seat would stop some of the fuel and the rest would go through the package tray into the passenger compartment. Someone used to sell a frame connector for the back of the car that was supposed to absorb the crash so it didn't rupture the tank
 

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^^^ not to hijack the thread, but...
I've been in a HARD rear end collision in my 66 and this is so extremely highly unlikely. Been discussed many times on VMF and elsewhere, but if you're worried about a welded steel box creasing to the tearing point, and enough fuel that is already below trunk floor level coming through a tear, past the sound deadener, past the trunk mat, past the divider, past the insulation, past the seat and past the package tray then miracle of miracles it somehow ignites like some Hollywood movie (remember it's vapor not liquid that ignites), then by all means, buy a fuel cell or get the "tank armor", or just don't drive it. There are so much greater risks to any car, especially an old car, than the fuel tank. Ditto with the straight steering shaft. I think the single best things that can be done are good tires, brakes and maintenance, good driving / following distance, good lighting, good seat belts, maybe some head rests (had a little neck strain after my crash), and good insurance. The world is full of risks. I'll take mine in a 1966 Mustang. Damn I can't wait to drive my car today.

I do kind of like the idea of a pair of braces or an X brace behind the seat for stiffening the unibody and while I haven't found it essential in 30 years of driving one, not a bad idea at all. I'm still thinking about that fold-down coupe seat thing, too.
 
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It’s interesting that Cougars did come from the factory with braces installed.

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