[mikedela]

Hey all,

So I'm redoing my pads and rotors, but I can not seem to get the caliper piston to compress fully.

I moved over to the driver side, and it compressed a bit more than the passenger side. I am still unable to fit the calipers over the new pads on either side.

Recently I have noticed lack of stopping power, and it pulls to the right when braking.

I am planning to replace the passenger caliper, but just wanted y'alls thoughts on it.

This is my 1st muscle car and i'm used to working on newer vehicles, so there is a learning curve for me.


I appreciate everyone's help and support. Thank you

 

[watto1]

Piston/bore interface is most likely rusted/coroded.. can sometimes be saved by replacing piston and addressing rust in bore, but really depends on the extent of the internal damage..

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[awhtx]

That caliper looks grungy. Has it been leaking?

 

[SteveO_71]

From the looks of the caliper, I would just replace the calipers on both sides. Also the lines if they are in bad condition. For my 71 I went to Chockostang and he had a package that included, calipers, rotors, pads and lines for a reasonable price.


Might as well put fresh fluid in while you at it.

Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering

 

[GT289]

From the looks of the caliper, I would just replace the calipers on both sides. Also the lines if they are in bad condition. For my 71 I went to Chockostang and he had a package that included, calipers, rotors, pads and lines for a reasonable price.

^ What he said. I can find no thickness specs on the '70 pads (other than the pressure plates themselves @ .190"),
so I'm going to assume the pads are probably ok for thickness out of the box and the calipers themselves
are the issue.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

[Hemikiller]

Piston should retract flush with the caliper face, the inside of the bore is rusted or has junk in it. Time to replace them. $25 each at NAPA and it appears they include new hardware.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/searc...tScatSequence3_13&referer=PLP&leftNav=leftNav

Make sure you don't mix up left and right. The bleeder must face the rear of the car when installed, not point upwards.

 

[mikedela]

^ What he said. I can find no thickness specs on the '70 pads (other than the pressure plates themselves @ .190"),
so I'm going to assume the pads are probably ok for thickness out of the box and the calipers themselves
are the issue.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

Piston/bore interface is most likely rusted/coroded.. can sometimes be saved by replacing piston and addressing rust in bore, but really depends on the extent of the internal damage..

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Thank you ! I was thinking the same. I picked up 2 new calipers, and will be installing them today. Thank you again !

 

[mikedela]

Piston should retract flush with the caliper face, the inside of the bore is rusted or has junk in it. Time to replace them. $25 each at NAPA and it appears they include new hardware.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/searc...tScatSequence3_13&referer=PLP&leftNav=leftNav

Make sure you don't mix up left and right. The bleeder must face the rear of the car when installed, not point upwards.

Yeah that was exactly what I was thinking. That is the way it is with every other caliper. I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss a step.

 

[wicked93gs]

Regardless of the car its not uncommon to have to compress the piston with a c-clamp...I am assuming you used one first? That being said, it does look like they needed replacement in this case

 

[mikedela]

That caliper looks grungy. Has it been leaking?

No its completely dry. It looks that was from old caliper paint.