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Discussion Starter #1
Brake job on 66 mustang (inline 6), 9 inch drums, converted to dual master cylinder. All brake lines (hard/rubber), shoes, cylinders, and hardware are new. Adjusted shoes to a slight drag on drums. Bleeds fine but brake pedal has no pressure, wheels do not lock when brake pedal is pressed. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas or if they could tell me how exactly these wheel cylinders (see attached) are supposed to work as I am not familiar with these. I thought the wheel cylinders could be the issue because only one side compresses and releases.
 

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Just got done with my brakes as well. I'd suggest taking off the line from the back of the wheel cylinder to make sure you're getting fluid back there. That will check for a blocked line.

If you are getting fluid to the cylinder make sure those little tabs on each shoe are seated on the cylinder.

Those rear drums are a puzzle in themselves. Here's a pic I have of when mine were being done.

Hope this helps


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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What master cylinder did you use?

What pushrod did you use?

I assume we're talking about manual (non-power) brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Woodchuck, I used a BrakeBest Select Brake Master Cylinder for a 67 mustang keeping my original pushrod. Yes, manual brakes.
 

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Woodchuck, I used a BrakeBest Select Brake Master Cylinder for a 67 mustang keeping my original pushrod. Yes, manual brakes.
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Did you seat the pedal pushrod in the master cylinder? If the circlip did not snap into the groove in the master cylinder the master cylinder piston, at rest, could be not fully retracted and keeping a port covered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, bench bled. Circlip was not used as I was following a tutorial from CJ pony parts suggesting it wasn't needed
6:55 mark.
 

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Couple of things--- Double check brake master,make sure it is manual drums. recheck the bench bleed of it.
Wheels cylinders will push out BOTH sides. Loosen bleeder screw to see if you got fluid,no need to loosen line from cylinder.
You say it bleeds ok so probably master problem.
 

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After you have Bench Bled the Master Cylinder, and then Bled all four wheels... You have to take the car onto a side street or a Parking lot and drive the car in Reverse and Hit the brakes like 20 times or more...This brings out the Automatic Self Adjusters and you will feel the pedal getting harder and the wheels will start to lock-up.

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Couple of things--- Double check brake master,make sure it is manual drums. recheck the bench bleed of it.
Wheels cylinders will push out BOTH sides. Loosen bleeder screw to see if you got fluid,no need to loosen line from cylinder.
You say it bleeds ok so probably master problem.
No booster, so I am assuming manual drums. I have bench bled the master again, even without the capping nuts to check the stream of fluid coming from it.
New cylinders compress and retract by hand on one side but the other stays firm, hence my confusion. I ordered the set from CJPonyparts and checked one out at the auto parts store, same on all 3 cylinders. Every other drum brake job I've done required cylinder to shoe pins and compressed by hand on both sides.
 

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I just did my brakes 04-22-20 on my six cylinder. My rear brakes were not getting any fluid so I changed the lines from the master cylinder to the rubber hose that splits it to both rear wheels.
I still have the single bowl master cylinder.
 
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