[dacatman1]

A few weeks ago I posted the difficulty I am having with the Stainless Steel brake lines I puchased from "Right Stuff" detailing. I suspect that SS is so much harder than carbon steel and therefore requires more torque to seal than can be applied while using the original calipers, distribution block and proportioning valve. After weeks of trying to seat the SS lines, I cannot get them to stop leaking. They leak at ALL junctions, not just one or two.

So, have other folks encountered the same issue using SS lines?

I think it's time I give up on SS and go back to carbon steel lines. If I use DOT5 fluid (which I am), should that minimize rusting of the carbon steel lines?

Can anyone speak to using regular steel lines and how quickly they start to rust and look bad?

 

[buening]

Well, i have stainless lines from NPD and didn't really have a problem with them sealing, that is after i made the major newb mistake of using thread sealant tape (hey i was only 16 ). I'm wondering if "Right Stuff" flares are different than these cars? If you can't get one to seal, i'd be yelling in Right Stuff's ear about it.

 

[GT_SCODE]

I had the same problems but eventually got them to seat.

You are living with the combo of the SS and the DOT5, DOT5 will leake where DOT3 will not.

 

[69grandecj]

I had problems with the lines leaking at the master cylinder but eventually it did seat.

 

[69M1SCODE]

The biggest problem area I had was the proportioning valve. Crow's foot/wrench fixed that too. No problems at all after I got those seated.
Dave

 

[dacatman1]

OK, thanks guys. So did everyone above use SS lines?
I think I should buy a carbon steel piece and compare.

To the guys who used SS, where did you get them? I am considering trying a different manufacturer, since I assume there are several "grades" of hardness when considering the alloy used in stainless.

GT_SCODE, you also had trouble with DOT5? I had not heard that this fluid leaks more easily than DOT3. I used is specifically because it will not eat paint. And a good thing I did - since I have leaks EVERYWHERE!

 

[67shelby]

I had initial problems with seating with mine. The "solution" is to tighten them, then back them off and retighten and repeat this several times. They will eventually seat.

 

[Guest]

Yep, I had not gotten through enough of the "loosen and tighten" iterations with my '65 GT convertible before selling it. When the car arrived in CA at the new owner's garage, his mechanic called to ask what type of brake fluid was used in the car as the reservoir was half full.

 

[joe69]

I had only minmal trouble getting mine to seal, but I was a little panicky with brake fuid leaking on my new paint at first. I got my lines from The Paddock, but it was years ago and I can't remember the manufacturer.

Joe

 

[dacatman1]

How many iterations are we talking about? I've loosened and re-tightened them at least 6 times each and they still leak.

 

[GT_SCODE]

GT_SCODE, you also had trouble with DOT5? I had not heard that this fluid leaks more easily than DOT3. I used is specifically because it will not eat paint. And a good thing I did - since I have leaks EVERYWHERE!

I so feel your pain on this one! I am still not 100% sure that mine will not leak. I went through so much fluid I almost cried at the site! Almost!!!!

 

[bigb427]

Hi Angella, I used S.S. lines on my 67 Gt500 from the Right stuff and at least half of the fittings leaked.
The problem is with the tubing flare. They are deffective by being off-center, incomplete, or overflared causing a crack. It you take one apart that is not leaking and compare it to one that is, the problem will be apparent.
I got them to replace a couple small lines. The other lines were to much of a pain to deal with so I fixed them myself. It is not that hard.
You may have to cut the existing flare off and make a new one. If you only cut just enough off it should not be a problem. Some just are not flared enough. Directions are usually supplied with the double-flare tools.
A tubing cutter and double-flare tool are each available from sears or harbor freight, northern tools, pep boys.
The tube nut only needs to be tightened to 10-15lb-ft, so if you feel the need to keep tightening that fitting - there is something deffinately wrong.
Just remember to take your time - something that was not done the 1st time!

 

[mcad_c]

"To the guys who used SS, where did you get them? I am considering trying a different manufacturer, since I assume there are several "grades" of hardness when considering the alloy used in stainless."

I bought my whole set from Virginia Classic Mustang. This was about 3 years ago.

No leaks from any connection. Maybe I got lucky.

 

[dacatman1]

Thanks for the continued comments; this helps!

My leaky set is from "Right Stuff Detailing".

I tried on SS line from NPD (not sure who produced it) and IMO it did not closely resemble the original.

Anyone tried SS lines from "Classic Tube"?

I'll check into what Virginia sells...

 

[Boom]

Bringing this back as I have the same issue. I have the SS lines from Classic tube and they leak quite a bit in some spots. I am going to try to loosen and tighten them as I feel that I am almost at the point where any tighter will break something.

 

[patrickstapler]

I just installed all new front and rear SS lines from NPD on my '66 GT. I'm only guessing, but I would bet they are from Classic Tube. Not one single leak in 90+ days of daily driving...

 

[69bossnine]

All our lines come from Classic Tube. We've been with them "forever", and they've always been top-notch. I see a couple tales of leakage on this thread, and wish I had a solution, but I have no idea why there might be sporadic problems. Patrick's account is what I would hope and expect from all installations.

Rick
NPD

 

[OldbutNew]

Boom, I did 100% SS lines on my Fox build. And, yes I had some initial leaks. I did the "loosen and re-torque" on a couple lines 4 or 5 times before they sealed up. But, seal up they did. To complicate things a little, I was converting to Cobra brakes. The system was completely dry at assembly. I bought them through Late Model Resto. Not sure the manufacturer.

 

[Roddster]

Two pages of replies and a see two problems:
1) No one has asked if you are using a Flare line wrench rather than an open end wrench. Good idea to those who posted about tighten/loosen/tighten sequence.
2) Then the big one: Stainless steel lines and "Concours" goes together like oil and water. Right into the points-off zone. And to top it off, there are a couple of judges who already can tell the difference between the old-style type of plating and the new-style (really!!) on the regular steel lines. If you drive the car out in damp areas of the contry, eventually steel lines will start to rust. Rub some Boeshield on the lines and this will lessen.