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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a new set of brake lines from Classic Tube and I have started to put them in. A little more difficult than I anticipated, especially in the engine compartment. It has however proven to be a good safety idea. The rubber line on the rear axle was shot. Cracked and rotted. Glad I found it now and not on the road. I do however, have a few questions.

1. Any sugestions about how to seperate the old lines from the distribution block? All of the fittings are stuck and I can't get them out.

2. Are the rubber grommets two pieces? If not how do you get the new lines through. The fittings will not fit through the hole on the old ones. I haven't bought new ones yet.

3. Any tricks to routing these things? I cut the old ones to get them out. I have removed quite a few things from the firewall and still don't have the right front crossover in.

Thanks as always to everyone. I know I can count on this group to lend a hand when I am really stumped.
 

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1. Since you have already cut up the old linse just use a sharp side cutter to clip them right near the fittings going into the distribution block to make it easy to get out. Once you have the distribution block out soak the fittings in penetrating oil of choice. Clamp the block in a softjaw vise and they use a visegrip to get the stuck fitting out. Clean up the distribution block and reinstall.

2. The grommets have a split in them like the first cut of a piece of pie to facilitate getting the lines in. The old ones will be hard and dried out so you may not notice this and they will fall apart if you try to save them....just get the new ones.

3. Routing the lines is just a matter of figuring out the puzzle. I always do them when the car is just a shell with no engine or drivetrain installed so I cannot give you any real tips here.

Good Luck
 

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1. Use a flare nut wrench.
2. If the fitting won't move, try to tighten it a liitle first.
3. Penetrating oil, but, I wouldn't soak a brake part in it, and do not let any get inside a brake opening.
4. You could cut the line and use a socket, but use a six piont socket, not a 12point.
 

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1: as stated above, penetrating oil, clip the lines and use a good 6 point socket

2: The grommets are one piece, but fold (think of a clamshell) to encapsulate the brake lines (and fuel on the d/s). Push them back into the engine compartment from inside the shock tower. You can soak them in lacquer thinner for 30 sec ~ 1 minute after removal to soften them up. AFAIK, new 71-3 grommets are NOT available.

3: You'll need to remove: shocktower to f/wall braces, wiring, emission cannister, a/c cannister, etc. You really should remove the booster to get the lines routed correctly in this area, there is a bit of a maze there with the crossover line where it meets the rear brake line and steering box.
 

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I learned the same as you are now that this is the most difficult part of the disc brake conversion, everything else was a snap compared to routing the hard line across the firewall. It mostly takes patience and figuring out which way to move the wiring and other obstructions to get the hard line where you want it. When I did this I bought stainless steel lines and they were a lot more flexible than the old plain steel lines I removed, but I don't know how much of that is due to the old lines becoming brittle due to age. I ended up getting the new line in by bending it more than I was comfortable doing, but it was either that or remove the engine. I was careful not to kink the line and when it was in place it returned to its correct shape easily. When replacing the grommets get new ones, slip them over the line after it's already in place, then push the grommet along the line until it snaps into the hole. Good luck!
 

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I had the same problem with my fittings into the distribution block. My flare end wrench wouldn't budge them at all even after soaking for a couple of days with PB blaster. The only thing that finally got it done was a craftsman bolt-out socket on an old 18" pointer-type torque wrench.
 
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