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Discussion Starter #1
Hey i have a 1965 mustang with stock, non brake boosted single piston disks in the front and drums in the rear. The speed department of the car has been upgraded, but however the braking department is totally stock. I am on a bit of a budget and would like to know what would be the most effective way to boost braking performance. would that be higher quality calipers and disks for the front? or a disk conversion for the rear? I will eventually complete the brake system regardless whether i start with the rear or the front, but i am interested in where i should start. Thanks!
 

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If you've got a '65 Mustang with stock disc brakes in the front then they aren't single piston. The factory disc brakes through '67 were Kelsey Hayes 4-piston units running D-11 pads. If you've got single piston unit then someone probably did a Granada disc swap or went to a '68+ spindle & brake set-up.

FWIW, the factory disc brakes, whether they be the early 4-piston or later single-piston floaters are each capable of locking the wheels on demand. If you can't then you have issues that possibly involve poor friction materials, glazed rotors, defective calipers/wheel cylinders, defective master cylinder, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you've got a '65 Mustang with stock disc brakes in the front then they aren't single piston. The factory disc brakes through '67 were Kelsey Hayes 4-piston units running D-11 pads. If you've got single piston unit then someone probably did a Granada disc swap or went to a '68+ spindle & brake set-up.

FWIW, the factory disc brakes, whether they be the early 4-piston or later single-piston floaters are each capable of locking the wheels on demand. If you can't then you have issues that possibly involve poor friction materials, glazed rotors, defective calipers/wheel cylinders, defective master cylinder, etc.
Thanks woodchuck, I hadn’t even thought about that they were swapped. Is there an easy way to tell if the car has the 68+ spindles or if it was a Granada swap? Also, the pedal is still very firm when you press on it, and there is not any squeaking when you hit the brakes like if the pads were glazed. Any ideas of what may be the problem?
 

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Thanks woodchuck, I hadn’t even thought about that they were swapped. Is there an easy way to tell if the car has the 68+ spindles or if it was a Granada swap? Also, the pedal is still very firm when you press on it, and there is not any squeaking when you hit the brakes like if the pads were glazed. Any ideas of what may be the problem?
Post photos of the spindle and caliper and we can tell you which it is.
All brake pad linings are not created equal. You start with a basic organic lining, move up to semi-metallic lining and ceramic lining. Then you have the Porterfield and EBC linings.
 

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I’m using Porterfield R4-S Steet Performance pads and shoes (from Open Tracker) with my stock single piston calipers and standard rear drums and so far they have been all I’ve possibly needed. No racing or autocrossing, but they do have to deal with the weight of a big block.
 

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Thanks woodchuck, I hadn’t even thought about that they were swapped. Is there an easy way to tell if the car has the 68+ spindles or if it was a Granada swap? Also, the pedal is still very firm when you press on it, and there is not any squeaking when you hit the brakes like if the pads were glazed. Any ideas of what may be the problem?
Casting number on the back of the spindles will tell you where they came from. Squeaking comes from high frequency vibration (like chalk on a blackboard) so if they are properly dampened no noise will occur. Crappy pads and shoes are common. Suggest some Porterfield R4-S linings or EBC street pads.
 

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As has been stated. The numbers on the rear side (Motor side) of the upper arm will indeed tell you what you have. The 68/69 Mustang spindles were C8OA--The 70 was DOZA, the 71-73 were D1ZA.
Granada was 5D.
Not a fan at all of the Granada setup as they are different than the Mustang brakes.
 

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Only on the front? Is it not worth upgrading the rear shoes also?

Harry Z
If you want...sure. I used good quality shoes on the rear of my OEM drums and R4S pads on the front with no problems braking at all. I now have 11" x 2 1/4" drums on the rear from ORP. I'm using whatever shoes come with the kit and R4 race pads on the front. It stops pretty darn good from 100+ to 40'ish.
 

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Only on the front? Is it not worth upgrading the rear shoes also?

Harry Z
Agree, to spend several hundred dollars over the cost of fully updating rear drum brakes to gain LESS than 5% in braking ability is not cost effective.
IF, you are doing a arena show car--Big lights showing on the rear axle, Yes no substitute for the view.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Post photos of the spindle and caliper and we can tell you which it is.
All brake pad linings are not created equal. You start with a basic organic lining, move up to semi-metallic lining and ceramic lining. Then you have the Porterfield and EBC linings.
Post photos of the spindle and caliper and we can tell you which it is.
All brake pad linings are not created equal. You start with a basic organic lining, move up to semi-metallic lining and ceramic lining. Then you have the Porterfield and EBC linings.
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Those brakes are probably made out of something harder than granola! Ain't auto correct awesome!

As far as the rear brakes go, 2 or more people come up to me at every autocross event in disbelief that I am running rear drum brakes. Still the original Ford drums with whatever pads to PO installed. Definitely zero bling on the rear with just a little bit up front. Should I squirt some paint on the drums? I'm leaning toward florescent green!;) I might want more rear brake if I start doing track days.
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