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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been working off and on for months trying to get a firm brake pedal. But maybe my exceptions are too high.
Granada Rotors, Calipers, Braided Hoses, Booster and Master Cylinder new from CSPR​
New Porterfield pads​
New Combination valve (PV2)​
New rear braided flex hose​
New rear wheel cylinders​
Rear brakes are adjusted to where I can barley turn the tires at all.
System has been bled (5 quarts worth!) using Motive Pressure Bleeder. I have tried the one-man method with a tube-in-a-bottle. I also tried speed bleeders but that didn't seem to work. My Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder would only pull out drips of fluid, if I opened the bleeders further vacuum would be lost.

Yeah its a power brake system but without vacuum there is no assist and should be => pedal effort then a manual brake system.

Video posted to youtube

I appreciate any insight, comments or criticism
 

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Discussion Starter #3
power brakes with no vacuum dont have the petal effert or feel kike manual brakes
Can you expand on that? I've always thought that without the vacuum the power brakes would be harder to push.
 

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Why did you go with brakes off a 1970s car that sucked instead of the good K-H setup that CSRP also sells?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I installed The Granada brakes 20+ years ago. I refreshed them with the CSRP parts. Work perfectly fine when everything is right. If I was to be installing something new today yeah I‘d go with something different. But you are wrong to say they suck, you’d be right to say That today there’s a better choice.
 

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Dimples
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I have a buddy that swapped brakes and thought something was wrong after install. I took it for a spin and told him they felt great. He drove it for a bit and came to the conclusion that the new brakes weren’t worse (better, in fact), just felt different and needed getting used to. I don’t have the same setup, but I do have the Granada part and I’ve been very happy with them.

Why did you go with brakes off a 1970s car that sucked instead of the good K-H setup that CSRP also sells?
I can’t speak for Mike, but in my case, I did the swap in the 90’s, and at the time it was one of very few budget options. They perform well I have had no real motivation to change them.
 

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Yeah, seems like it was the thing to do when one of the magazines ran an article on how to do it.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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What are you expecting? I do a full restraint check, without trying, every time I get in the wife's Flex compared to my DD 2002 F150. I have 2008 Mustang GT front brakes with a 67 master cylinder, CSRP booster, Fox body proportioning valve, and Wildwood 10lb residual valve going to the rear drums on my 65. Works well, but not the wife's Flex boost wise.
 

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Back in the 1980's and 1990's the chinese reproductions of the KH disc brakes were not yet available. The only option was to find used originals and they were high dollar! The Granada spindles/brakes were a gift from heaven, well, maybe a gift from Ford. I paid less than $100 for my Granada set-up and the rotors and calipers were in excellent condition. I have them on my '65 along with a disc brake Explorer rear end. 1-1/16" MC, no booster, no proportioning valve, no residual pressure valve and I have a rock solid pedal and the car stops on a dime.
 

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Ah, well I guess I don't know the whole history of it. But I do think the K-H is going to be superior to a floating caliper design. Plus when you start mixing and matching calipers and master cylinders that weren't meant for each other the pedal feel can be impacted.
 
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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Neighbor had a 76 Granada sitting in a field. Told me to get what I wanted. Took calipers and prop valve, bought new rotors and a 74 Maverick MC. Worked like a champ.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My hope with this post was to find out what others think about a pedal that is so easy to push that it can be done with two fingers down to a certain point.
Can you do that with yours?
 

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Dimples
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My hope with this post was to find out what others think about a pedal that is so easy to push that it can be done with two fingers down to a certain point.
Can you do that with yours?
I've never tried it that way, but possibly. I have power brakes too, and it's pretty easy until it isn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My '65 got stock disc/drum added a booster, the pedal moves like 1½" then it get's rock hard. The pedal movement and feel are pretty similar to my modern daily driver.
That is pretty much my expectation.
 

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That is pretty much my expectation.
You got a conversion kit that don't change the pedal ratio, right? I'm pretty sure that's you "problem". The factory power brake setups used halved pedal ratio compared to manual brakes. My SD booster copy the factory design.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It’s not a conversion, had power rolling off the factory floor.
 
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