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I have granada rotors but with 75 chevy impala calipers and semi metallic pads with a 74 maverick manual master cylinder. I have stock drums on the back. I used a bracket from Speedway Motors to adapt the calipers to my stock 65 drum spindle. I have to say that now that I have them adjusted I am very pleased with their performance.
I did have to fabricate an adjustable MC push rod to get the adjustment right. I probably have about $300 bucks in them. There is a write up on FordMuscleforums in the tech exchange section. It would have been less but I didn't have a core for the master cylinder or calipers. If I was to do it again I would have took more time and found an aluminum master cylinder for the price of the maverick one and the core.
 

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You wrote it's a booster from CSRP in the first post, I don't see any boosters similar to what Ford used before '67 on his site. Do your booster have the additional linkage behind it? Like shown in this pic of an old stock booster. My SD booster have it, without that linkage I would probably have like 3" of "free" pedal movement.
booster65.jpg
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Discussion Starter #23
My booster does not have that additional linkage. I “think” that additional linkage is used on the Midland-Ross boosters but not on the Bendix boosters. But good thought!

Maybe someone with knowledge of this will jump in here.
 

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To the best of my knowledge the Rube Goldberg setup was used to clear the "Z" bar on 65-66 Mustangs. I have the 65-66 auto only aftermarket bracket and booster on my hydro clutched 65. I have modified it a bunch.
 

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The linkage on the '65/'66 boosters was used to change the pedal ratio when the optional power drum brakes were ordered. There was no power disc brake option in '65/'66. There is only one brake pedal for '65 and '66. In '67 Ford introduced a revised ratio brake pedal for the boosted cars so the linkage on the back of the booster was not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
My car came with power drum brakes so it should have had that linkage on it?
It doesn’t now but I don’t remember what it looked like 25 years ago when I installed the Granada stuff. And all the old stuff was tossed out last year when I moved :(

Looking at the CSRP kits it doesn’t appear to be able to accommodate that linkage attached to the booster...

The conversion has always left me with the feeling it could be more but I just figured it just needed getting used to. Guessing now that I need to find that linkage.

Thanks awhtx and Westmus for helping me understand
 

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I don't know if this can be made to work with the booster and MC you already got. Also remember you with less pedal ratio will need to push harder on the pedal for the same brake power.


Edit: I would personally buy a new booster with linkage. Some dual MCs are to big to fit behind the tower using the linkage, so you may also need another MC..
 

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My car came with power drum brakes so it should have had that linkage on it?
Yes, your car would have originally had the linkage between the firewall and the MC. But it also had the single piston MC so there was plenty of room between the firewall and the shock tower.
Here is a kit from Mustang Steve that includes a brake pedal with a relocated pushrod pin to change the ratio.

I assume you have talked to Dennis about your concerns.
 

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I tried the Granada. It was not awesome IMHO. Went to the big Lincoln trans am setup and am very happy. I don’t have to think about the brakes when I go from a modern car to the mustang.
 

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Why did you go with brakes off a 1970s car that sucked instead of the good K-H setup that CSRP also sells?
I swapped to Granada brakes around 1988. I bought everything from the junkyard for $35. Discs were good so I repacked the bearings. Remanufactured calipers were $10 a side. New pads were less than $20. Outer tie rod ends were $10 each. Granada brakes may not be the best, it for less than $100 bucks it was one of the best upgrades I have ever done to my car. It stopped great compared to drum brakes rebuilt by an 18 year old kid.
Joel
 

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My car has manual brakes with a 1- 1/8" master cylinder, Granada front brakes, and rear drums. The pedal effort is rather high. However, the brakes work well. The pedal is firm, engages right away, has good feel, and no complaints except for pedal effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes, your car would have originally had the linkage between the firewall and the MC. But it also had the single piston MC so there was plenty of room between the firewall and the shock tower.
Here is a kit from Mustang Steve that includes a brake pedal with a relocated pushrod pin to change the ratio.

I assume you have talked to Dennis about your concerns.
I’m replacing a Mustang Steve booster. I have the relocated pin installed but am using the original pin. I think I’ll try the reloacted pin Just for grins but CSRP doesn’t say anything about needing to do that.

I have spoken with Dennis but am going to call him tomorrow to get the lowdown on that linkage I’m missing.
 

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My car has manual brakes with a 1- 1/8" master cylinder, Granada front brakes, and rear drums. The pedal effort is rather high. However, the brakes work well. The pedal is firm, engages right away, has good feel, and no complaints except for pedal effort.
You will develop higher brake line pressure with a smaller diameter M/C and less pedal effort.
When I did a MK VIII rear disk conversion I used the Lincoln 1 1/8" M/C and was really dissapointed. After going to a 7/8" dia. one, the brakes are perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
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I’m replacing a Mustang Steve booster. I have the relocated pin installed but am using the original pin. I think I’ll try the reloacted pin Just for grins but CSRP doesn’t say anything about needing to do that.
I don't understand. You're replacing a Mustang Steve Booster (that's really just a factory 4 cyl Fox Body Mustang booster) but it didn't have the pin relocated in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
My pedal has two pins, the original and the one that was installed for the Mustang Steve Booster. The booster to pedal pushrod is now attached to the original pin.

I spoke with Dennis at CSRP today and confirmed that the linkage from the original booster that changes the ratio is not needed.
 

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My pedal has two pins, the original and the one that was installed for the Mustang Steve Booster. The booster to pedal pushrod is now attached to the original pin.

I spoke with Dennis at CSRP today and confirmed that the linkage from the original booster that changes the ratio is not needed.
Interesting. Just curious, but why move from the MS solution? Mine has worked flawlessly for over 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I wanted to get a better pedal feel. Its always been too sensitive, too easy to over brake. I’m getting ready to hand the car down to the next generation and want to fix the stuff I’ve just lived with.

Perhaps I should just get a larger Diameter bore m/c but I’d like to find the root cause. Both Steve’s and Dennis’s product have the same brake feel so there must be something else going on.
 

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Interesting. I’m putting the Mustang Steve setup in my daughter’s car because I like it so much. May just come down to preference I suppose. Mine has a Maverick master.
 
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