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Discussion Starter #1
So I got the Classic Instruments in and all the lights work, fuel reads full (just filled the tank) and the volt meter works. Haven't checked the oil pressure or temp since the car wouldn't start. No big deal, tomorrow a new Summit M2008 500 CFM carb is comming.

Problem I had was when I was tightening the nut the holds the speedo drive gear in, the bolt broke. Not to leave well enough alone, I made things worse. I used a center punch to mark the center of the bolt shaft, and with a small drill bit I thought I would drill out the middle and successively enlarge it. Only problem was the bit wandered and i'm not centered. I managed to make the hole oblong.

I'm thinking I have two options; 1) bring the car to my transmission guy and let him deal with it. Or 2) drill this hole, tap it and use it. I don't have access to a welder or knowledge of how to use one.

There is enough lateral play in the falt piece that secures the drive gear that it should be OK. If I drill and tap my new hole, what size should it be?

Looking for any suggestions.

Thanks
 

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Also just a heads up on the Summit carb, I installed the same carb. The fitting that goes into the chrome line has a 3/8 barb but the line from the fuel pump to carb is 5/16". I was able to squeeze on the rubber 5/16" hose but its pretty snug. I'll eventually change that fitting to 5/16. Also the stock linkage works great with this carb only thing I had to add was another bracket to add a 2nd return spring. Here's some pics of my setup, I'm going to have a friend powdercoat the bracket.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info @Caper50 my current Holley only has the spring attached to the throttle link. Why the second return spring?
 

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So I got the Classic Instruments in and all the lights work, fuel reads full (just filled the tank) and the volt meter works. Haven't checked the oil pressure or temp since the car wouldn't start. No big deal, tomorrow a new Summit M2008 500 CFM carb is comming.

Problem I had was when I was tightening the nut the holds the speedo drive gear in, the bolt broke. Not to leave well enough alone, I made things worse. I used a center punch to mark the center of the bolt shaft, and with a small drill bit I thought I would drill out the middle and successively enlarge it. Only problem was the bit wandered and i'm not centered. I managed to make the hole oblong.

I'm thinking I have two options; 1) bring the car to my transmission guy and let him deal with it. Or 2) drill this hole, tap it and use it. I don't have access to a welder or knowledge of how to use one.

There is enough lateral play in the falt piece that secures the drive gear that it should be OK. If I drill and tap my new hole, what size should it be?

Looking for any suggestions.

Thanks
Definitely an easier fix on the bench than in the car. I'd clean that mess up with a Dremel and a carbide burr. (grind back to center and drill it)
It will be fairly easy if you're experienced. It will be pretty difficult if you're not. A machine shop is probably your best bet. I don't know about
a transmission shop on this deal.....
 

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If I were you I would pull the tranny and tail shaft and work on it on the bench before you destroy the hole.
I agree, but the time for saving the original 1/4-20 hole has gone. Once the stump of the old bolt is removed, the hole should be drilled and tapped for a bushing. And be careful next time, Five foot-pounds would be more than enough, you could tighten more than that with a screwdriver.

 

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Also just a heads up on the Summit carb, I installed the same carb. The fitting that goes into the chrome line has a 3/8 barb but the line from the fuel pump to carb is 5/16". I was able to squeeze on the rubber 5/16" hose but its pretty snug. I'll eventually change that fitting to 5/16. Also the stock linkage works great with this carb only thing I had to add was another bracket to add a 2nd return spring. Here's some pics of my setup, I'm going to have a friend powdercoat the bracket.



A better fix is to use an OE '65 steel line and a 5/16 to 3/8 adapter so no rubber hose between pump and carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone. When I was tightening the bolt it seemed tight. I'm sure I cross threaded it. The trans mission shop I bought the T5 swap stuff is also a full machine shop. They do tons of custom mods to stuff from antiques to modern Coyote engines. I think I've screwed things up enough (pun intended). I think my best bet is to pull the trans and bring it back and let the pros fix my mistake.
 

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A better fix is to use an OE '65 steel line and a 5/16 to 3/8 adapter so no rubber hose between pump and carb.
What about a fuel filter? I installed one between my pump and carb. If you use steel lines where would you put one?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I agree, but the time for saving the original 1/4-20 hole has gone. Once the stump of the old bolt is removed, the hole should be drilled and tapped for a bushing. And be careful next time, Five foot-pounds would be more than enough, you could tighten more than that with a screwdriver.

I was so proud of myself rewiring the dash and replacing the sending units, than........... Oh well. Best way to learn is from your mistakes.

Told my wife I wanted an old car to work on. I guess I got that and then some.
 

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What about a fuel filter? I installed one between my pump and carb. If you use steel lines where would you put one?
I like the '65 pump with integral canister filter, but if you use an all steel line you just use an all steel in-line filter, threaded at both ends or, with the Summit carb, Holley inlet filters or an inline filter attached directly to the fuel inlet line.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I like the '65 pump with integral canister filter, but if you use an all steel line you just use an all steel in-line filter, threaded at both ends or, with the Summit carb, Holley inlet filters or an inline filter attached directly to the fuel inlet line.
I was reading something in here about these pumps like pushing thru a filter instead of pulling. Correct? Is the 65 combined filter/pump a drop in on a 66?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So just spent the last 5 hours dropping the exhaust, drive shaft and transmission. What a pain, but my own fault. I'll send the trans out for a helicoil wednesday.

But while I'm at it. I'm thinking of replacing my 66 fuel pump with the 65 for integral filter. A Holley inline one is $90.00 and for that money I can get a pump/filter and hard line from NPD.

Will the 65 hard line bolt right up to the Summit carb?

Also are these the correct ones: Fuel Pump , fuel line

Also ,y old Holley had an prot for the PCV valve on the right side. The Summit has it on the front. How should I hook up the PCV hose?
 

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Sure is I have one on my 66.

This reproduction '65 Mustang Carter fuel pump works great with the stock oil pan, but it doesn't clear a T-shaped pan such as the 65/66 GT350 aluminum COBRA pan, since the pump is longer than the original '65 Mustang fuel pump.
 

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So just spent the last 5 hours dropping the exhaust, drive shaft and transmission. What a pain, but my own fault. I'll send the trans out for a helicoil wednesday.

But while I'm at it. I'm thinking of replacing my 66 fuel pump with the 65 for integral filter. A Holley inline one is $90.00 and for that money I can get a pump/filter and hard line from NPD.

Will the 65 hard line bolt right up to the Summit carb?

Also are these the correct ones: Fuel Pump , fuel line

Also ,y old Holley had an prot for the PCV valve on the right side. The Summit has it on the front. How should I hook up the PCV hose?
that's the correct '65 style pump but you can get the same Carter M4009 pump for $30 at Rock Auto: More Information for CARTER M4009

Also, for fuel filters, you'll want a coarser filter on the pump suction side (tank to pump) and a finer filter on the pump side (carb to pump). Coarse is usually greater than 40 microns and fine is usually 10 microns:
 

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that's the correct '65 style pump but you can get the same Carter M4009 pump for $30 at Rock Auto: More Information for CARTER M4009

Also, for fuel filters, you'll want a coarser filter on the pump suction side (tank to pump) and a finer filter on the pump side (carb to pump). Coarse is usually greater than 40 microns and fine is usually 10 microns:
Got my 65 pump from my local Carquest.
 
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