[Scatterbrained]

Hi guys!

So I’m the proud new owner of a ‘70 coupe, that’s really more rescue than resto... That being said, my first project will definitely be the brakes. The car has a mild 351 Cleveland, with an unknown manual (no power assist) disc setup for the fronts and the original style drums on the original 8” rear end. Right now the car has a C4 in it, but I have plans for a manual trans and 4 wheel disc to go along with suspension upgrades and fuel injection.
With thoughts of eventually putting a late model 8.8 rearend in the car, what would everyone recommend as an immediate upgrade to what I have? I really dislike the manual brakes and ideally want to put in a master cylinder and power assist unit I can use down the road, perhaps with just a master cylinder change.

Am I crazy here? I’m sure I can’t be the first guy to start down this road. Like most everyone else, budget is a factor, I prefer to build my cars in stages, biting off little chunks of money and driving it between upgrades. Ideally one stop shopping is nice, but not necessary...

Thanks in advance,

Scatter’d

 

[1ofAMillion+]

Stage one: Get some nice EBC or Porterfield street pads and take the stairs more often to build those calves up Really, the effort should be considered excessive when its right.

 

[Nos681]

Scattered...come on in...the rabbit hole is plenty deep for one more!?

 

[cougar70]

It probably has either Granada spindles and brakes or 1970 Mustang disk brakes. Whichever you have, you already have the budget setup in front. Your car may have originally had a 302 because of the C4 transmission and 8 inch rear. You should be aware that the C4 was the "small" transmission and may not last forever behind the Cleveland. Ditto the 8-inch rear end. The 1974 Maverick disk brake master cylinder has a small bore and has been said to have the least pedal effort in a manual disk brake system. My car has a larger bore master cylinder recommended for use with a booster and pedal effort is very high without a booster. I plan to try the Maverick master cylinder and see how I like it. You're certainly not the first person down this road here. If you spend a few minutes searching you will find hundreds and hundreds of threads about your questions. And there are several members who sell brake upgrades as full kits or piecemeal parts. You could start by trying to identify your current master cylinder and proportioning valve. The master cylinder should have a number on the casting. Posting pictures if you are not sure would be very helpful.

 

[dobrostang]

Rebuild what you have and go driving. That includes servicing the plastic pedal pivot at the top of the brake pedal. You have an old car its not a new one, drives like an old car. Working correctly it should drive and stop very confidently, and be a blast to drive - but will take a little more pedal effort than your Prius or F250. I say man-up and spend your money elsewhere if the car is in rehab.

Budget and boosted brakes are inconsistent terms. You can go bucks in and buy a bolt-in boosted system for your car, lots of the weenies, whiners and people with real physical issues on this site do it. ;o) Just hit google...

 

[Scatterbrained]

Thanks for the replies. Step one will be identifying what I’ve got. Let me start digging...

Scatter’d

 

[Nos681]

Brakes are great staring point especially if it’s been sitting around not driven.
Even your basic semi metallic brake pads will definitely make a huge improvement.

my 65 with Granada brakes stopped way better than my 92 hatchback.
The police/taxi service brakes were semi metallic.

 

[Scatterbrained]

Does anyone here have any experience with the Scott Drake power booster setup? Looks like it might be a nice fix that would only require a master cylinder change later.

Thoughts?

Scatter’d

 

[Miguelito2.0]

I've got Granada brakes with Porterfield pads and a brake booster from Mustang Steve. The car stops great and has good pedal feel. The rears are stock drums.

 

[cougar70]

Keep in mind that you will need to change the brake pedal when adding a booster. And keep in mind that you will need to change the brake pedal again if you add a clutch pedal.

 

[Scatterbrained]

Yeah, I haven’t forgotten that

 

[daveoxide]

What size rims are you running? Reason I ask is because I am working on making a bracket that adapts later model Mustang front brakes to Granada (and 70+ Mustang disc) spindles. Since the later model brakes are bigger in all directions, 17” wheels will be needed for the larger brakes.

 

[MrFlash]

The C4 and 8 inch rear will be good for up to 400 hp.

 

[Scatterbrained]

Running 17” wheels. I’m not going to up the power on this until I get the brakes and suspension right....

Currently considering lots of options, vacuum assist, hydraboost, etc, but the project seems to work together so I’m fine with taking some time planning.

Scatter’d

 

[MrFlash]

My 70 came with factory front disk and power brakes.
All you should have to do is source a power booster and master cylinder.

 

[Shaun]

Keep in mind that you will need to change the brake pedal when adding a booster. And keep in mind that you will need to change the brake pedal again if you add a clutch pedal.

Not necessarily. This booster is a 'conversion' booster. You can use it on the manual brake pedal - Power brake conversion for 1967-70 Mustang with disc brakes

I'd try this booster and then install decent pads up front.

 

[cougar70]

Not necessarily. This booster is a 'conversion' booster. You can use it on the manual brake pedal - Power brake conversion for 1967-70 Mustang with disc brakes

I'd try this booster and then install decent pads up front.

I didn't know there was such a product available. It seems like a good idea. There are many boosters available and it gets confusing. On some, the pushrod and master cylinder seem to be offset lower. Some seem to have an adjustable manual brake pushrod.

The conversion booster in the Street or Track website looks like this:

The same part number referenced on Scott Drake looks like this:

Apparently there were different setups for power drum and disks and some had these pushrods: (power drum?)

And some look like this:

Also, the offset pushrods seem to be flipped over in some boosters:

 

[Scatterbrained]

Lots to consider. Thanks for the replies guys. Once I get this figured out and make a move, I’ll be sure to update this so others can find the info later...

Scatter’d

 

[Redneckgearhead]

You know a booster isn't going to make it stop in a shorter distance right?

 

[Scatterbrained]

Yes. That’s one of the reasons I can’t just buy a booster and throw it in. I have to take into account the future plans for the car which includes 4 wheel disc brakes, suspension and power upgrades.