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Discussion Starter #121
so i need some input about powder coating my suspension. originally i wanted to powder coat all the suspension gunmetal, that will match the inside painted area of my coys c67 wheels. my viking coilovers & springs are silver. i think the gunmetal might be too many different greys going on (especially if the gunmetal suspension does not match the wheels). i can poweder coat smaller stuff myself in my electic oven in my garage. or i can get anything thing i want powder coated gloss black at work for free. so now i am thinking all the control arms, coilover brackets, hubs & spindles gloss black, and leave only the coilovers silver. i think that might look better ???? side not the front sway bar i am getting is grey as well. i am itching to get them in color , but i cant make up my mind. what are your thoughts ?
 

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I thought you could use ‘69 carpet. I might be wrong in the year though. So this a lot less helpful than intended.
 

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Go with the gun metal. It sounds like that's what you wanted to begin with so stick with it. One of things I have regretted in any build is cutting certain corners. I know most of us have to find that balance between what we can afford and what we want.
 

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Discussion Starter #124

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Discussion Starter #125
both upper arms are finished, and one lower arm is finished. i decided to add another support connecting the tubes on the outside edge of the coilover bracket plate, to distribute the weight across the arm. happy with how it turned out. arm is fully tig welded. they look nicer in person. the pics look ****ty
 

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Discussion Starter #126
today i pulled the trigger on black powder coat. turned out great !. tomorrow i will get the spindles, hubs & mustang steve front brake brackets powder coated. i am excited this is a big step forward !
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Front end is ready to install, minus the cobra brake calipers. I am stripping the calipers and polishing them. Think some shiny calipers will look good behind the wheels and with all the black parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Cj Pony 1- piece seat riser installed. This was a pain in the a** my trans tunnel was not anywhere close to fitting, and the total width of the riser pan was about 3/8'' too narrow. had to do lots of metal persuasion to get it in. the floor feels stiffer, so i hope it was worth it !
 

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Discussion Starter #129
The rear suspension is well underway. I decided on a 3 link setup consisting of :
Viking double adjustable coil overs ( to match the front suspension)
Panhard using 1-1/8 .120 wall dom tubing, Allstar 5/8-18 threaded bung & QA1 X series bearing ends.
Torque Arm basically a upgraded version of the TCP torque arm but much longer at aprox 58'' in length. QA1 rodends & dom tubing. custom front crossmember & driveshaft loop.
Trailing arms using 1-1/8 .120 wall tube, front mount is welderseries.com 3'' wide bushing & sleeve kit ( will fit perfectly in front leaf spring mount) rear mount is QA1 rod end.
Fabricated trailing arm/ coilover axle brackets & adjustable pan-hard brackets.

I have the torque arm brackets fabed and welded on the 9'' housing, Cut off the OEM leaf spring pads. I have the Trailing arm / coilover brackets made ( they share the spacing & layout of ridetech brackets). Progress slowed down due to waiting for a few parts in shipping. UPS lost a package of steel tubing i needed to build the torque arm. waiting on spacers and a coilover reinforcement block before i can weld the trailing arm/coilover brackets on the 9'' housing. Waiting on bushing & sleeve kit for the front mount on the trailing arms ( the front mount is a 3'' wide poly bushing & rear mount is a threaded bung & QA1 5/8 rod bearings. Boxes of parts waiting to be fab'd

Torque Arm brackets Tig welded on housing

Coilover brackets made and mocked up for measurments.
 

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Cj Pony 1- piece seat riser installed. This was a pain in the a** my trans tunnel was not anywhere close to fitting, and the total width of the riser pan was about 3/8'' too narrow. had to do lots of metal persuasion to get it in. the floor feels stiffer, so i hope it was worth it !
I've got this exact same Dynacorn piece from CJPP and I'm about 1 week away from drilling out my existing 2 pans to do the single pan install. Someone said to use a convertible carpet kit but that assumes you do the interior rocker panels too.

Do you happen to have any more photos or details on how you resolved your fitment issues?

Or more details about what you did to close the gaps on the sides by the rockers?

I've even heard of the pan sitting too high in the front with a 3/8" space over the top of the tunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
I've got this exact same Dynacorn piece from CJPP and I'm about 1 week away from drilling out my existing 2 pans to do the single pan install. Someone said to use a convertible carpet kit but that assumes you do the interior rocker panels too.

Do you happen to have any more photos or details on how you resolved your fitment issues?

Or more details about what you did to close the gaps on the sides by the rockers?

I've even heard of the pan sitting too high in the front with a 3/8" space over the top of the tunnel.
yes sir. being a fabricator i get pretty crafty it helps a lot in the garage ! yes i had a large gap along the entire front of the rider pan. first i centered the seat riser holes as even as possible with the access holes in floor pan. what i did was use eight 5'' long 7/16'' bolts with large washers on the top, put them in the holes where the seat brackets insert, i made 3''x3'' plates with a 7/16'' hole centered in the plate as a oversized washer on the bottom side of floor pan with a hex nut. tighten all the bolts evenly as needed until the gap is gone. the 3''x3'' steel plates help distribute the pressure across the floor so you dont crease the floor pan, it requires quite a bit of pressure to tighten the gap. if there is spots left that the bolts wont close gap, use a floor jack with block of wood pushing up on floor closing the gap & weld while jack still has pressure on floor. * note before welding anything do not fully tighten the bolts yet, just tighten the bolts until the riser pan fits lightly snug against the floor . the seat riser still needs to be able to move side to side when you tighten the rocker gaps. if the floor is too tight then you will not be able tighten the side rocker gaps*

Next step is to get the side gaps closed up between the seat riser + inner rocker. what i did was i made a bracket out of scrap metal large enough to use a big "C" clamp on, tack welded it on top of riser pan close to the outside edge . i used a 6'' deep clamp on that welded bracket and the top edge of the rocker to pull the pan out towards the rocker. once the gap was tight enough i hammered the outside flange of riser pan flush with inner rocker and tack welded it several spots ( make sure the bottom of riser is tight to floor before welding)

as you tighten the seat riser out towards the rockers in each direction it will make a gap in the center around the trans tunnel, don't worry this is easy to close up and needs to be done last.
i tack welded the riser in this order. 1- sides to the inner rockers. 2- bottom flange to the floor pan ( stopping at where the gap starts around the driveshaft tunnel)

last to close the gap in the driveshaft tunnel, i used a floor jack with block of wood jacking up against the floor pan forcing it up tight against the seat riser, hold pressure and tack weld where gap is tight. i use the floor jack in 3 spots, center and on each side of the upper curve of tunnel. this got most of the gap out. now there was still some gap left on each side, i beat floor pan from the bottom side with hammer and tack welded. it took several repeats of this step to get all the gap out. once the metal warms up it starts forming pretty easily. . right after you make a tack weld try to smack it with the hammer as the tack is still hot. the metal will tighten best this way. repeat until gaps are gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
I just went in garage and took pics to give you a visual. this is the bracket i tack welded to the riser and "C" clamp to tighten the gaps at the inner rocker. it was a old bracket i had laying around from old project. it was about the right height so it was convenient.

long bolts and steel plate, used 8 of them to squeeze floor and riser pan together. you could probably get away with only using 2 or 4 bolts one side at a time. i prefered to compress the entire riser evenly at once
 

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Thanks! This is great info as I suspect I may have similar issues.

Was also thinking I need to do my sub frame connectors (SpinTech) first, but now I’m thinking I should do the seat pan first (so I can jack the floor if needed) and then install the subframe connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Thanks! This is great info as I suspect I may have similar issues.

Was also thinking I need to do my sub frame connectors (SpinTech) first, but now I’m thinking I should do the seat pan first (so I can jack the floor if needed) and then install the subframe connectors.
no problem, thanks for reading by build thread !
 

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Discussion Starter #136
I made a jig for the lateral bars. used a bushing & shim kit from Horton's welderseries.com they are a poly bushing with 1/2'' id sleeve and 1.75'' outer tube, these bushing sets are 3'' wide so they fit perfect in the stock front leaf spring mounts. the bars are a 1-1/8 .120 tube from summit, Allstar 5/8-18 tube ends. QA1 x series rod ends 5/8'' eye hole to mount in the axle bracket side. my son spent the weekend in the garage helping me, we got the 9'' housing mocked under the car, measured, mocked up ride height. boy did great, 10 years old learned how to read a tape measure, operate drill press, he assembled the lateral bars and installed them with my supervision. im a very proud dad !


 
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