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Thanks! This is great info as I suspect I may have similar issues.

Was also thinking I need to do my sub frame connectors (SpinTech) first, but now I’m thinking I should do the seat pan first (so I can jack the floor if needed) and then install the subframe connectors.
First off, I went with patches on my floor pan and looking back, a full pan would have been easier and neater.
Second, I welded the Spintech's on afterwards. The floorpans really can affect the square of the body so you don't want subframe connectors until after the pan is in and everything squared up and level.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Looking good, nice welds.
Awesome that he wants to help you out, it seems to be a rarity now days.
yes i am lucky. car has turned in to father son project. he is obsessed with muscle cars. when this car is done we are going to try and get a mopar for him to restore together ! he does good with some of the air tools, but the electric grinder & welder he stays away from, he doesn't like the heat and sparks.. which i am ok with as those are the most dangerous tools anyways lol
 

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Discussion Starter #143
tonight i am starting on the coilover crossmember & panhard mount. still waiting on my tubing for the torque arm, summit had to send out a replacement package to replace the package the UPS lost. im praying that i get them soon !
 

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Discussion Starter #144
First off, I went with patches on my floor pan and looking back, a full pan would have been easier and neater.
Second, I welded the Spintech's on afterwards. The floorpans really can affect the square of the body so you don't want subframe connectors until after the pan is in and everything squared up and level.
i agree with using a full pan vs patch pans... only had i known back then hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #145
upper cross member / coilover mounts are fit up ! pictures will come later i didnt take any recent ones. i am scrapping the panhard bar and going with a watts link, watts is a much better fit for this setup. talked with jim @ fays2 and he is providing me with some raw parts so i can fab to work with my setup, i didnt know if he would sell unfinished individual parts, but his prices are great for the diy fabricator ! i am using his aluminum bearing propeller w/ hardware & a raw unfinished cradle to modify to fit on my 3 link cradle, making my own brackets, arms & rod ends etc i will start on the torque arm while i wait for those parts to come in.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
fabricated some struts to mimic the correct shock length. upper coilover crossmember fabricated. watts link will attach to the rear section of the crossmember, clamped in place until everything is fitted together and checked to be correct. The formed frame plates extend back far enough for the watts link.


 

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Discussion Starter #148
sneek peak at the nearly completed torque arm. it is a work of art i love this thing. still have to finish welds on the threaded bungs and the front mounts. torque arm is 56 inches long. front mounts to a cross member with 3 position hole brackets, and a driveshaft safety loop. i forgot to take pics of the front crossmember.

 

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Discussion Starter #149
torque arm finished today. so far this is my favorite part i have fabricated for the car ! uses a 5/8 QA1 X double heim bearing link on the end. the housing ends are 5/8 QA1 solid ends


 

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Discussion Starter #150
perfect fit ! has 3 total places for adjustment. i made the front swivel mount with 3 holes for fine tuning and ability to move around for clearence issues. the crossmember still needs finished, it is getting two triangulated tubes that attach to the frame extension floor supports & its getting a bolt in driveshat saftey loop that will also bolt in at the top of the driveshaft tunnel for extra support.


 

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Discussion Starter #152
tonight i got the watts cradle fitted up on the 3 link craddle. made some bracketry to strengthen it together as one big crossmember. i can not make up my mind if i want to weld in the coilover/ watts cradle or make it bolt in. i designed it with ability to be used either way. any suggestions.. pros / cons ? welded will be stronger obviously. bolt in is easier to service if something got damaged i guess ( i am thinking in situation of crash if rear of car gets damaged)
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
Rear suspension cradle is made, measured and ordered more qa1 3/4'' rod ends, Afco sweged tubes, and adjustable clamp on axle brackets. I originally planned to weld on the watts linkage brackets, after some thought i decided to go with some adjustable clamp on style in case any future changes come to the car. I am a little disappointed in myself for the fact that i wanted to build my own watts cradle just for the fact of having my own design. after talking with jim from fays2 it was financially hard be beat the price of this cradle, considering the time it would have took to build my own design i had to go this route. hey, taking the easy way isn't so bad every now and again.. i think i earned a little break on this one lol

 

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Discussion Starter #154

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Discussion Starter #155
Had some boxes waiting for me when i got home :) Afco swaged tubes RH &LH, Qa1 3/4'' rod ends, Axle brackets from a company called southwest speed, they both have the same 5-1/2'' mounting depth. I stumbled on this company searching for axle bracket options after deciding i did not want weld-on brackets. I have to give them a little advertising, these brackets are really nice quality. A killer deal at $150 for both. Total invested into the watts link setup is $575, It is set up exactly how i wanted it !


 

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Discussion Starter #156
tossed everything on hand tight, did some measuring, made sure axle is centered. Everything fit as planned ! the only concern i had was clearance with coilover hitting the slotted watts axle bracket, has plenty of room. i removed the mimik coilover struts and cycled the suspension every direction i could. It moves freely as it should, no binding anywhere. Can lift it up until it hits the floor, drop it wayyy low, zero side to side & zero pinion angle movement.. it is rock solid and smooth ! Happy with how this rear setup is turning out. And to think i was about to settle with running the stock leaf springs lmfao lol. Time to tear it apart and paint everything, now to decide paint colors hahaha

 

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Discussion Starter #157
More boxes came in today ! Hellwig 1-1/8 chromoly swaybar in a kickass silver hammertone finish. i really like this color !


Driveshaft saftey loop 1'' tubing. will get welded onto the torque arm crossmember and additional bracket at top of curve to bolt in through the floor for additional support.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Anyone have ideas on paint colors for the rear suspension & 9'' housing + the cradle ? the color theme of the car & front suspension is black & gunmetal. i would like to mix a little gunmetal or silver hammertone in the rear setup. i dont want everything black, not do i want everything silver/gunmetal. maybe just the rearend housing black. i think the torque arm needs to be silver. maybe something else as well ? the rear viking coilovers are the same silver color as the fronts are. the watts cradle im not sure what would look good. i need ideas ! lol

note the gas tank will be painted gunmetal, i think that will look cool with the sump and fuel lines coming out the bottom rear. will be visible from rear of car lol
 

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Enjoy reading your thread and appreciate your suggestions and learning from your fabrication experience. Let's hope my welding / fabrication guy can fit my '65 Fastback into his work schedule next week so I can get my build back on track...

What made you decide to go with Fays2 verses Maier, Street or Track, or OpenTracker for the Watts Link?
 
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