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Discussion Starter #161
Enjoy reading your thread and appreciate your suggestions and learning from your fabrication experience. Let's hope my welding / fabrication guy can fit my '65 Fastback into his work schedule next week so I can get my build back on track...

What made you decide to go with Fays2 verses Maier, Street or Track, or OpenTracker for the Watts Link?
fays sold me the individual parts i wanted, because it had to be custom fit. i wasn't going to drop $700+ on a watts and only use certain parts of it lol i dont think maier has a watts, and strret track & open tracker i think are the same kit, or atleast they look identical.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
Did some playing around with the front suspension tonight. Checked sway bar fit, cuz i never had a swaybar when i built the coilover setup. Well it is a tight fit, the lower shock brackets need to be about 1/2-1 inch taller ideally for sway bar clearance. i turned the lower bracket around and gained 1/2'' of space. not sure if i like it like this, i might make new brackets and raise the coilover up an inch and shorten the upper bracket a inch so the geometry / ride height does not change. It looks like it will work fine the way it is, maybe i am being too picky lol.. gotta say that hammertone sway bar looks great on there !


 

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Discussion Starter #163
shock tower side. i like the clean look without the stock shock protuding up out of the shock tower. i am going to make a plate to go under the shock tower brace for a monte carlo bar i am fabricating.


 

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Discussion Starter #164 (Edited)
Finally finished fabricating the torque arm front crossmember / safety loop. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out ! In the interest of keeping it simple and light i decided to use the driveshaft tunnel/ seat riser pan as a reinforcement point putting the attachment bolts right through the lip of the riser pan. This seems to stiffen the entire center of the car using the crossmember as triangular bracing. It has no flex to it. crossmember is 1.25'' .125 wall tubing, drive shaft loop is 1'' .083 wall tubing. Loop has 6'' of inside height. Top mount that bolts to the tunnel is curved to fit flush up against the tunnel. The only thing i fore see is i might have to use oval exhaust tubing under the crossmember for ground clearance.



 

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Discussion Starter #167 (Edited)
That should put some serious bite into rear tires
I sure hope so ! I can adjust The torque arm & lateral bars each direction to ger far into negative & positive anti-squat. I went this route in hopes to get a car that can perform in all types of racing well, autocross, road course, drag racing... i like them all equally and its fun to get out and blast away.

My goal is to have suspension settings figured out so when i go to whatever motorsport outing i choose, i am able to adjust suspension to a setting that works for that particular track etc. At least that sounds like a good idea in my head lol
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Got the cross member powder coated black at work today. I love being able to bring in parts and hanging them on the powder coat line, hands free. The guys that run that line do all the work ! lol I did bring them in a breakfast pizza for coating all of my front suspension, it was a lot of parts and they do a good job. I am going to take in the rest of the rear suspension and 9'' housing on the line just to get media blasted clean, i will paint the 9'' housing in black epoxy that way i can do touch up's if anything gets changed or added later on. the torque arm is getting exopy primed then coated with a grey hammertone. the watts link cradle might also get grey hammertone.

 

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Discussion Starter #169
Powder coated the 3 link trailing arms today ! One part at a time it is inching closer to becoming a rolling chassis !

 

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Discussion Starter #170
I am looking for a quality paint in something similar to gunmetal, a darker silver or grey with metalflake would be nice. Cost is important, i cant afford to spend a lot buying color + activator to paint the watts cradle and torque arm. They are getting exopy primed then painted grey on top of epoxy. Something in a spray can would be preferable. Anyone know off hand a good paint to try ?
I seen Duplicolor brand has a wheel paint with some cool looking greys. Anyone have any feedback with these rattlecans? Im thinking maybe using spray can on top of epoxy primer before it cures might help paint cure better?

Summit racing sells their own brand of paint, which is the cheapest i can find online. a pint of single stage for $25 + $22 for a quart of activator. After shipping it will be $60 which i cant justifiably spend right now to paint 2 small parts. Lack of overtime at work has my hobbies taking a back burner. I still want to keep progress moving along i have gotten far this year with it, im afraid to take another break from it. The last break i took lasted 4 years.
 

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While I use Duplicolor, Rust-Oleum and Krylon spray cans it tends to be for for non-automotive types of projects. Too many issues with poor spray patterns, splatter, malfunctioning cans, poor adhesion, and paint that remains "soft" on a permanent basis.

Take a look at Seymour - Cast Blast. It is a nice dark grey with some metallic properties and is available thru NPD. There's also a high temp version (the front of the torque arm will be near down pipes and mufflers). I'm planning to use this on the case of my 4 speed Toploader.

I'm also using the Summit brand HPE primer with a topcoat of Summit enamel flat chassis black for the entire underside of my car as well as the new 9" rear axle and leaf springs. While they don't have the topcoat color you want, I'm very impressed with the quality, price, coverage, and finish of the Summit paints when used together as a system.

I've also used Eastwood's primer and topcoats (with red cap activator for hardener) with good results. But their stuff is pricey.

Any automotive paint shop can produce the exact color you want and load it into a small or medium spray can with a red cap activator button on the bottom that mixes the paint with a hardener that can produce a finish very near a professional spray gun. But you just have to use the paint once the hardener is activated within 24 hours. And a can is $20 - $30 each.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
While I use Duplicolor, Rust-Oleum and Krylon spray cans it tends to be for for non-automotive types of projects. Too many issues with poor spray patterns, splatter, malfunctioning cans, poor adhesion, and paint that remains "soft" on a permanent basis.

Take a look at Seymour - Cast Blast. It is a nice dark grey with some metallic properties and is available thru NPD. There's also a high temp version (the front of the torque arm will be near down pipes and mufflers). I'm planning to use this on the case of my 4 speed Toploader.

I'm also using the Summit brand HPE primer with a topcoat of Summit enamel flat chassis black for the entire underside of my car as well as the new 9" rear axle and leaf springs. While they don't have the topcoat color you want, I'm very impressed with the quality, price, coverage, and finish of the Summit paints when used together as a system.

I've also used Eastwood's primer and topcoats (with red cap activator for hardener) with good results. But their stuff is pricey.

Any automotive paint shop can produce the exact color you want and load it into a small or medium spray can with a red cap activator button on the bottom that mixes the paint with a hardener that can produce a finish very near a professional spray gun. But you just have to use the paint once the hardener is activated within 24 hours. And a can is $20 - $30 each.
I agree eastwood has raised their prices considerably past few years. that is what i am using to paint the body of the car. Their gallons of the basic colors are priced good & primers etc. I have used ppg & house of colors made in a rattle can before from a local autobody supply. might call and see what a can would cost. If i had more parts to paint then i woud buy a quart of paint and be done with it lol.
 
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