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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Im new on here so please go easy on me if there’s a few other threads explaining a similar thing .

picked up my 70 mustang fast back in the summer, had been Sitting around for a few years so pulled the motor and now starting to rebuild it.

so the goal is to keep the car stock for the majority but with a subtle Trans am feel to it .

Performance wise I’m looking for 400+ horse power which seems achievable,

the plan currently is

eldebrock performer Rpm top end kit (cam, heads, manifold)
Flat top pistons
Headers
Electric ignition
Higher stall torque converter

Anyone give me any advise on the build ? Heard mixed reviews on the cam, I want as lumpy an idle as possible... any better options ?
Also what sort of stall converter would suit ?

A few pics of my car

68BF4201-074D-48C7-B017-FE1F1206C787.jpeg
0150FBE7-6AA8-4E3E-8360-DF25B56F588B.jpeg
616892C9-3805-4466-893F-A20684776EDF.jpeg
ED8C02C9-6143-4DAB-8909-D8452A2B8D65.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also.... any tips on what pistons to buy to raise the compression a bit but possibly still use the standard rods
 

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1967 fastback Mustang 289 to hipo specs with fitech, 4r70w auto, Shelby drop.
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That is a sweet looking Stang! Sorry, no help with the 351. Is it a Cleveland or a Windsor? I know you can stroke the Windsor easily with 302 pistons and a 400 crank maybe?
 

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70Dan, the 351W can easily do the 400, whats up with the lumpy idle request ? Cams that idle that way give you poor driveability. Can you live without some of the lumpiness ? LSG
 

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GoRgEoUs Mustang ! I think I'm running a 460 / 472 cam (with some other mods) and it is just lopey enough at idle to say, "I'm not stock!" but I can enjoy a cruise to a nearby store, easily merge into traffic from an entrance ramp, and can still get 22 mpg with no overdrive on a 2+ hour trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That is a sweet looking Stang! Sorry, no help with the 351. Is it a Cleveland or a Windsor? I know you can stroke the Windsor easily with 302 pistons and a 400 crank maybe?
Thanks man, it’s a Windsor, have been looking into different cranks too .

70Dan, the 351W can easily do the 400, whats up with the lumpy idle request ? Cams that idle that way give you poor driveability. Can you live without some of the lumpiness ? LSG
Just want it to have a slight race car edge, want a few little touches to link it to the 70 trans am car...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
GoRgEoUs Mustang ! I think I'm running a 460 / 472 cam (with some other mods) and it is just lopey enough at idle to say, "I'm not stock!" but I can enjoy a cruise to a nearby store, easily merge into traffic from an entrance ramp, and can still get 22 mpg with no overdrive on a 2+ hour trip.
Thanks mate, yea I’ll look into a that as That mpg sounds amazing ..
 

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if you are not dead set of the edelbrock top end kit, a better option would be piece together your own top end starting with the heads. the only reason i suggest this is for a little more initial cost will get you parts that will allow you to grow power wise in the future. majority of people who build a engine for power usually want to upgrade later on. 400 hp right now might suffice, but a year or two down the road those edelbrock performer heads wont be up to the task when you get the itch to go faster...

my advice would be a cnc varient 200+cc cylinder head. AFR, dart, promaxx, edelbrock jr, trickflow, even blueprint engines make a decent cylinder head.
remember the better cylinder head, the less radical the engine needs to be to make power. buy the best cylinder head you can afford. dart pro 1 is a cnc225 head for $1500 pair. that is a great head for the money. edelbrock performer heads go for $1200 pair and will be your restriction. and resale of the performer head is low due to the poor performance the provide. look at going prices of good cylinder heads. i had a new in the box set of performer heads cost me 1200, i decided i wanted afr205 heads instead, it took me a month to sell them and i the highest offer i got was $850 for them. i was kinda pissed. just my 2 cents lol
 

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I’ve heard that the Edelbrock valve springs are not up to par. There are a lot better heads available for slightly more money IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
if you are not dead set of the edelbrock top end kit, a better option would be piece together your own top end starting with the heads. the only reason i suggest this is for a little more initial cost will get you parts that will allow you to grow power wise in the future. majority of people who build a engine for power usually want to upgrade later on. 400 hp right now might suffice, but a year or two down the road those edelbrock performer heads wont be up to the task when you get the itch to go faster...

my advice would be a cnc varient 200+cc cylinder head. AFR, dart, promaxx, edelbrock jr, trickflow, even blueprint engines make a decent cylinder head.
remember the better cylinder head, the less radical the engine needs to be to make power. buy the best cylinder head you can afford. dart pro 1 is a cnc225 head for $1500 pair. that is a great head for the money. edelbrock performer heads go for $1200 pair and will be your restriction. and resale of the performer head is low due to the poor performance the provide. look at going prices of good cylinder heads. i had a new in the box set of performer heads cost me 1200, i decided i wanted afr205 heads instead, it took me a month to sell them and i the highest offer i got was $850 for them. i was kinda pissed. just my 2 cents lol
Great, no I’m not dead seat on the eldebrock set up at all. Thanks for the advice.
I shall look at what I can get with 200cc or more .
Only slight issue is availability is slightly more tricky being in the UK.
Ive ordered from jegs in the past but shipping on heavy items is always really expensive.

but your right I’m sure I’ll be after more that 400hp at a later date, once I’ve got the rear end and chassis set up nice .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
why would you want a different crank, and why would you want flat top pistons?

400 hp is easy, and you’re better off keeping the compression down to do it.
the crank I’ll more than likely leave due to costs, but the piston change was purely for more compression.

always though the higher the compression the more responsive the engine becomes. better potential to make more power ?
 

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another consideration is valve to piston clearance on stock pistons using pretty much any aftermarket head with a larger than stock cam. if you keep the stock pistons you can notch them for added clearance. if you wanted more compression then now would be the time to get pistons w/ reliefs, then you should be good with most any head cam combo
 

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Dan70, the convertor is probably fine, but that cam,....um,....eeww. No, not that cam The Eddy Performer Rpm cams are at least 30 yrs old, and weren't good when new. 11 inches vacuum at 1K ?! not for me. LSG
 

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Well lets talk about the performer RPM top end kit I have been running for 20 years on a 351W, taking kids to ball games, driving around town sitting in traffic in the bay area, boulder colorado mountain thrashing and upstate new york country roads. I run several autocrosses a year and every few years I'll hit a track or two.This engine has been on Sears point , Laguna Seca, Thunderhill and Watkins Glen international all multiple times. Never had a valve spring issue BUT I chip at 6k to keep it whole. If you want to run to 7k, I would do some research. For instance, a trip to THunderhill, in the California Central Valley, 2 hour drive there, beat the daylights out of teh car all day in 100 degree afternoon heat, 1.5 hours home then 1 hour in bay area stop n go traffic to get to my home. This is a VERY Streetable system. SO first things first, the idle, this video gives a taste of the idle in the very beginning, its quite appropriate for a respectable mid-life-crisis ;o):

Big Fun

What I like about the system is you get a nice broad range of punch. You can get more HP out of a 351 but the power range tends to shrink and move upwards in the RPM range, my first engine was like that doggy at 2500 starts coming at 3500 neck snap at 5500. Felt doggy at street RPMs. For the street you want good low-end punch because any time you hit the throttle say to change lanes without a downshift, she will step out on you and "feel fast". My first motor would likely beat my existing motor on a drag strip but not on an autocross.

So I say, you can't go wrong with the RPM system with some nice shorty headers and a 600-650 carb which will give nice midrange throttle response.

SO that's my pitch, I've run this car for over 20 years with this system, its bullet proof and has never left me wanting for more and all components are matched right out of the box. Not saying you can't do better, but you can do a lot worse playing catalog poker.

Don't forget you have to divot the pistons with valve relief if you go 202 valves. Otherwise, if you are building the motor get the right pistons with valve relief.

Good luck!
 

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Well lets talk about the performer RPM top end kit I have been running for 20 years on a 351W, taking kids to ball games, driving around town sitting in traffic in the bay area, boulder colorado mountain thrashing and upstate new york country roads. I run several autocrosses a year and every few years I'll hit a track or two.This engine has been on Sears point , Laguna Seca, Thunderhill and Watkins Glen international all multiple times. Never had a valve spring issue BUT I chip at 6k to keep it whole. If you want to run to 7k, I would do some research. For instance, a trip to THunderhill, in the California Central Valley, 2 hour drive there, beat the daylights out of teh car all day in 100 degree afternoon heat, 1.5 hours home then 1 hour in bay area stop n go traffic to get to my home. This is a VERY Streetable system. SO first things first, the idle, this video gives a taste of the idle in the very beginning, its quite appropriate for a respectable mid-life-crisis ;o):

Big Fun

What I like about the system is you get a nice broad range of punch. You can get more HP out of a 351 but the power range tends to shrink and move upwards in the RPM range, my first engine was like that doggy at 2500 starts coming at 3500 neck snap at 5500. Felt doggy at street RPMs. For the street you want good low-end punch because any time you hit the throttle say to change lanes without a downshift, she will step out on you and "feel fast". My first motor would likely beat my existing motor on a drag strip but not on an autocross.

So I say, you can't go wrong with the RPM system with some nice shorty headers and a 600-650 carb which will give nice midrange throttle response.

SO that's my pitch, I've run this car for over 20 years with this system, its bullet proof and has never left me wanting for more and all components are matched right out of the box. Not saying you can't do better, but you can do a lot worse playing catalog poker.

Don't forget you have to divot the pistons with valve relief if you go 202 valves. Otherwise, if you are building the motor get the right pistons with valve relief.

Good luck!
You can get all that same stuff, with a much better combo. I drove my car endless miles, with far better performance than the outdated performer combo will give.
 

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Where are you located? I have a very nice rotating assembly for a 351w posted in the for sale section. I am in Ohio.
 
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