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Ok, here's the scoop. I'm upgrading my little old 289, because I've got a lifter that's ticking (It's not my exhaust, BTW they are Cyclone headers). The car sat for 2+ years. I've ran oil system cleaners thru the engine and changed the oil, but one is stiil ticking.

Anyway, I currently have a Edelbrock 4bbl Performer intake and new Crane hydraulic lifters to install. The engine is currently a Holley 500cfm 2bbl (runs damn good for a 2bbl)

First, I need a 4bbl carb. I can buy a used Holley #9834 600cfm carb with electric choke and Ford linkage for about $30-40 and rebuild it. I've rebuilt many Holley carbs before, rebuild kit $20. I would need a carb spacer, probably 1".
OR, I could buy a used (6 months)4bbl Edelbrock 600cfm carb with electric choke for about $120.

Second, when I replace my lifters, should I replace the push rods also? rockers? If so, what do I use that's better than stock?

Third, any recommendations on cams? I'll still be using my stock springs, pistons, etc. OR, should I wait to get a higher lift cam when I replace or redo my heads (better springs, etc.) What's the max. lift on stock springs?

The engine currently has a C4 tranny that will be rebuilt with a shift kit and a new stall converter.

Thanks,

To everyone that responded, [color:red] THANKS </font color=red>
 

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If you have stock 289 heads then you may have problems pulling out the pressed in studs in the heads if you install a bigger cam and heavier springs. You should always install the correct spring for the cam. You will be wasting your time installing the cam and not the springs.
 

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lifter ticks arent usually caused by the lifter....they're caused by low oil pressure, usually caused by a crank bearing clearance that has gotten excessive

I've taken engines that had good rings (good compression readings) and put in a new crank kit (newly turned crank that comes with the correct sized bearings)

the clearances on the crank bearings (main and rods) dictate the oil pressure the engine has. Oil pumps rarely wear out in my experience.

It's even possible to have one main bearing wear out, causing a lifter tick, and still read good pressure on the guage!
 

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You should be able to install a Performer cam 204/214 duration, .448/.472 lift with stock springs although they recommend a 95# seat pressure spring. (I have a set of Edelbrock Performer Springs that I would sell, PM me for info)

I would go for the Holley carb, but you will get many people here that prefer Edelbrock for "out of the box" use. (no tuning)

As long as your pushrods are straight, there should be no reason to replace them. Being a 67, you will have to stick with the rail type rockers until you redo/replace the heads. Then you can go for guide plates, screw in studs, & non rail rockers. Look into Powerheads if you want to stick with factory heads. They are ported with oversize valves and all the goodies for less than it would cost to have a typical machine shop do the work on your heads.
 

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Second- No, you don't have to replace the pushrods.
Third- Consider the Edelbrock 2122 camshaft. I've installed two of these cams with stock valve springs with good results. Always better to upgrade valvesprings when you go to a performance camshaft.
 
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