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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '68 Stang, and want to run the Ignitor III. Pertronix told me I should bypass the pink wire to their HC e-core coil I am using. I checked, and sure enough, there is a pink wire coming out of the back of the ignition switch, but then it goes into a connector, and comes out as a red with green stripe wire that goes to the current coil. So, where do I splice to bypass the resistor they say I have to bypass??? I cant find the resistor. Thanks
 

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The pink wire is the resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You mean the whole wire itself is the actual resistor? If so, then I should pull it out of the ignition switch and put in a jumper, or just splice into the pink at it's very beginning coming out of the ignition switch???
 

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On most cars the Pertronix works just fine with the existing (resistor) wire. Try it and see.

If you need 12V you need to run a switched 12V to it. On my 67 there is a post on the back of the ignition switch that is 12V.

I would just bypass the pink wire instead of removing it.
 

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pprince said:
+1

Run a wire from your coil to the ignition switch connector that the pink wire plugs into.

+2
That's what I did on the 67.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will splice into pink wire at it's beginning. I cant seem to get it out of the switch. Sound ok? Thanks people.
 

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I installed a new wire from the igntion switch (leaving the pink wire still attached) thru a new small grommeted hole adjacent to the firewall connector, and then spliced into the red/green wire. I actually used a male/female bullet connector on the engine side. If I need to switch back to the original points while on a trip etc, all I do is disconnect the new wire with the added bullet connector. The pink wire does nothing so long as the nearly no-resistance added wire is connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Indy, how did you insert the new wire into the back of the ignition switch? I have no accessory post on the back, just a gang plug,so which terminal did you use on the back of the gang plug that plugs into the ignition switch?? I thought I could just splice into the pink wire where it comes out of the back of the ignition switch?? Thanks
 

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351stang said:
Indy, how did you insert the new wire into the back of the ignition switch? I have no accessory post on the back, just a gang plug,so which terminal did you use on the back of the gang plug that plugs into the ignition switch?? I thought I could just splice into the pink wire where it comes out of the back of the ignition switch?? Thanks
You are right, if I remember, I used a new bullet connector that I inserted the pink wire and new wire. The pink wire had a bullet connector connection already I just replaced. The pink wire did not go into the switch connector originally. That new bullet was inserted into the existing female connector that is used for the pink wire. I did not use the accessory port on the switch itself. My harness is a "Alloy Metal" 66' underdash reproduction. I can't swear the original harness had the bullet connection seperating the switch connector from the pink wire.
 

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My pink wire was actually attached to one of the terminals on the back of the ignition switch. I just soldered another wire on the same terminal.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I see now, you have a '66, I have a '68, so I will just splice into the pink wire as it comes out of the back of the gangplug, and run the new wire all the way to the coil, and tape off the red with green stripe wire. That should eliminate the resistor effect.
 

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I was under the impression that with the Ignighter III that you removed the pink resistor wire from the switch alltogether and replaced it with the new wire in the same spot the pink wire was in. I always heard that the pink wire should never be cut or spliced into.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What happens if I do splice into it? I would like to leave the pink wire there because I see it also supplies power to the brown wire that goes to the solenoid, in addition to the red with green stripe wire. The pink wire on my '68 harness goes into a molded gang plug that has the red with green stripe wire and the brown wire coming out on the other end. Red with green goes to coil, and brown to the solenoid. So, I really don't want to cut up the gang plug. Will it get really hot and catch fire if I splice into it?
 

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351stang said:
I would like to leave the pink wire there because I see it also supplies power to the brown wire that goes to the solenoid, in addition to the red with green stripe wire.
Check again.

The pink wire is simply a resistor wire for the coil. It should not be feeding anything else.

I simply unplugged the pink wire from the ignition connector and ran a new wire from there to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did check again, and where the pink wire goes into a gang plug(just before it goes through the firewall), on the exact other side of the gangplug, a brown wire, as well as the red with green stripe wire comes out. The brown wire goes to one of the little terminals on the solenoid. That brown wire gets it's juice from the pink wire on the other side. I think I will simply use the switched yellow 3 way that is near the fuse box for power to the coil, and tape off the red with green wire, leaving the pink wire to feed the brown wire. This is a '68 wiring harness that I have.
 

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I believe this is the purpose of the brown wire....It is there to feed 12 volts to the coil for initial starting of the engine. It receives this 12 volts as the starter solenoid is activated. The path they took just seems a bit odd but that is Ford. There is no reason for the voltage from the resistor wire to go to the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, would the 3 way yellow wire suffice as a source to run switched 12volts to the positive side of my pertronix 3 coil? thanks
 

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As long as power is at that plug ONLY in the run position, and not off or acc.

Looking at the attached schematic, it appears that you can also splice onto the green/red wire from the ign. sw. to the regulator. It looks like it comes from the same pin on the switch as the resistor wire does. Look for #904 and # 16A from the switch on the right side of the schematic.

http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/1968/E5.jpg
 
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