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Discussion Starter #1
Got a few questions as I'm going through things that need to be replaced on my transmission:
1. There's a square ended bolt on the right side of the transmission near the rear cooling line. I have a leak coming out of that (among other places), but I'm not sure what part it is. Anyone know? CJPP has an image of it, coincidentally leaking:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pub/media/images/installs/MUT1004S/install-MUT1004S-4.jpg


2. The rear cooling line goes into a brass (I believe) 90* elbow. This fitting on mine is loose to move by hand. Is this correct or does it need to be tightened up?


3. How do you get the vacuum modulator out? The shop manual references a special tool but I highly doubt everyone went out and bought that.


4. Any suggestions for how to route the metal vacuum line from the engine to the modulator with the engine and tranny in the car?
 

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I believe there is an o-ring on the brass fitting .
A wrench to remove and lots of wrench flipping .
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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1-That's a band adjuster. The nut that locks it in place is a special one that has a rubber seal on the inside part of it. The nut is meant to be discarded if leaking. Replacements come in every C4 and A4LD rebuild kit and you can buy them individually. Study up on adjusting that band before you mess with it. Not a big deal but you really can't replace that nut without disturbing the band adjustment.

2-Very often the elbow won't line up perfectly facing forward AND tighten at the same time so people tighten it all the way down, realize that, and have to loosen it until it faces the line.

3-The screw-in style modulator? Before I found they sell thin open ended wrenches I would spend some time grinding down a cheapo wrench to fit.

4-Stab the line up from underneath. If you've bought a new pre-formed one you will see how it routes the easiest. If you're making one generally across the top of the transmission a bit towards the passenger side. The main thing is keep it away from other stuff so it won't rattle.
 
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For the modulator I dug around in my wrench drawer until I found some cheapo stamped steel wrench that almost fit and then made it tighter with some electrical tape.

It's one of those cheap tools that comes with something that needs assembly. No idea what it came from. Maybe it's from a buffer or something?

The modulator shouldn't be on there crazy tight though, so anything you can get up in there to turn it should do. As long as you can grab the flats it should come right off.
 

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64 1/2 D Code Coupe,
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Got a few questions as I'm going through things that need to be replaced on my transmission:
1. There's a square ended bolt on the right side of the transmission near the rear cooling line. I have a leak coming out of that (among other places), but I'm not sure what part it is. Anyone know? CJPP has an image of it, coincidentally leaking:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pub/media/images/installs/MUT1004S/install-MUT1004S-4.jpg


2. The rear cooling line goes into a brass (I believe) 90* elbow. This fitting on mine is loose to move by hand. Is this correct or does it need to be tightened up?


3. How do you get the vacuum modulator out? The shop manual references a special tool but I highly doubt everyone went out and bought that.


4. Any suggestions for how to route the metal vacuum line from the engine to the modulator with the engine and tranny in the car?
I used a narrow open ended "bicycle" wrench to remove the modulator. Not much room between the modulator and the tranny to get a normal size wrench in there. I have seen some aftermarket modulators with flat sides on the side the vacuum line goes in so you can put a wrench on the outside,

The vacuum line went from the back of the engine, was secured to either the head or the bellhousing with the clamp and went past the right side of the tranny with a rubber vacuum hose connecting the metal tube to the nipple on the modulator.
 

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To Gypsy's point #2, the brass elbow is a pipe thread. You might be able to re-die it... pretty sure it's a "1/8" pipe". Same thread as a 3/8"-27, but it tapers. If you have to turn the elbow another 1/4 turn, put the die on the elbow finger tight and crank it another 1/4 turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was able to find the band adjustment lock nut on ebay. Unfortunately, the only place I could find them even reasonably quickly. A few local transmission shops were "able to get them" but couldn't tell me a time frame aside from "a couple weeks" and one local Ford dealership was unable to understand what I was talking about. So a tranny shop in CA gets the win for their ebay listing with multiple sets available. Thanks to the awesome guys at NPD for the suggestion.



About the cooling line elbow, I was wondering if it was a component that was meant to freely spin. Obviously not, but being completely tight doesn't matter. I'll do as Gypsy suggested and tighten as much as I can as long as it's facing down. My previous cooling line (which I made 20 years ago...poorly, I might add) entered that elbow from the rear. The line was also a straight line and ended up going under my steering which is now causing me a problem as I'm replacing a bunch of parts. So I finally ordered a pre-bent line and I'll need the elbow in the correct position.


I also ordered a set of thin wrenches. This isn't the first time I've needed such a tool and I like to think that if I need something two or three times there's a good chance I'll need it more in the future and I should own it. Of course by that logic I should have a paint booth by now, but wrenches are cheaper.
 
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