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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so went to change the bellhousing from a 164 to a 157 on a c4 in my mustang and removed all but two bolts from the pump and tried to gentle pry the bellhousing off the pump then the red tranny fluid started pouring out through the bolt holes, yeah pump was coming out with the bellhousing. Big bummer. So what would you folks suggest I go from here? If I keep working the bellhousing loose the pump is definitely coming with it. The transmission is still in the car with engine removed.
 

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According to the 66 Factory manual there should be 6 bolts that hold the bell housing to the case. The pump has on o-ring seal around the shoulder that fits inside the case. The bell housing cutout for the pump should be large enough that the pump won't stick in the housing. It appears from the manual that some of the bolts go through the pump and some are threaded into the pump. Try removing the last bolts and the bell housing should almost fall off.
 

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You are going to have to pull the trans. I would not trust the gasket after the pump came up. The best way to do it is to remove the valvebody, tighten the front band and Stand the transmission straight up and remove the pump.Then you can install new gasket and o ring. Get a manual and video if you are going to attempt it yourself. Probably only cost you about $150-$200 to have a tranny shop do it and replace all the seals at the same time. This is not my area of expertise so hopefully someone else can give you better news and easier way of doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your response I was able to pull the bellhousing off then the front pump out as well and pump to case gasket was tore on the bottom, bought a new gasket and I am attempting to reinstall the front pump. Problem I am having is I don’t think it is fully seating into the case. The transmission is from the 1970s 26 to 24 spline. Yeah probably going to have to pull the transmission. 🙁
 

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Actually the pump just pops in. Your problem is that the reverse input or forward clutch drums have moved forward a bit when the pump popped out and now one of the friction plates has disengaged. If life were simple all that would slide back together but these things are perverse so you have to twist and wiggle to get the clutch re-engaged. A practiced hand can do this in situ but it still can be annoyingly fiddly. Worth a try though. The main problem is it's hard to tell if you have gotten it without test fitting the pump to see.

Worst case scenario, pull it out and stand it on its tail in a five gallon bucket (with some blocks to fit). Then gravity will help you get the clutch drums to seat rather than fight you. In the meantime you can twist and push while remembering you have to lift the shaft a smidge while doing so. Good luck, it might pop right back in. Fingers crossed for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gypsy, thanks for your input, and you are exactly right. Tried to get it all aligned and engaged but it's not going to happen with the transmission in the car. So i will be pulling the transmission and assemble it on the bench. Oh well one thing always leads to something else.
 

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Just some guy
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Before you give up, try using a pair of vice grips. Clamp on the shaft where the splines are. I have to clamp at an angle so my big vice grips will clear the bellhousing. Don't worry about the splines, as long as you don't clamp the vice grips so hard veins are standing out in your neck, it won't hurt them. Now the pliers have given you a handle. You don't need to turn all the way around, less than a 1/4 turn and back and forth while you push inwards is all you need to do. Most often you can feel it when it clunks back into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a follow up, I removed the valve body and was able to get everything aligned also adjusted the forward band. Thanks for everyone’s help
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